hiking – Our Moving Feast

August 6, 2018August 6, 2018

Joshua Tree National Park – A Magical but Rugged Desert Landscape

I’ve long been a Gram Parsons fan. Growing up, his second solo album, Grievous Angel, was a particular favorite in our house. With much of our musical tastes heavily influenced by our college age brother, my sister and I would listen to the album over and over and over again. Even if you are a young fan, you can’t be a fan of Gram Parsons without knowing about the connection he had with Joshua Tree, and ultimately, the story of his untimely death there in 1973. Link: For the complete story see Rolling Stone‘s 1973 account of Gram Parson’s death.

Growing up as a Gram Parson’s fan, and hearing continued references to it over the years, Joshua Tree has always occupied a magical – and an almost mystical – place in my imagination. When Todd and I finally had the opportunity to visit, we jumped at the chance. Located in the California desert near Palm Springs, the town of Joshua Tree has long been a draw and haven for artists and musicians. With a funky vibe and very authentic feel, you will find locally owned live music venues, restaurants, art galleries, and shops ready for you to explore and enjoy. Don’t miss the opportunity to spend some time in town before or after your time in the park. It will be time and money very well spent.

Covering slighter more area than the state of Rhode Island, Joshua Tree National Park is located in the unforgiving desert landscape of Southern California. It’s actually the place where two deserts, the Mojave and the Colorado, meet, and each desert has it own distinctive ecosystem. The Mojave Desert has higher elevations and cooler temperatures which support the growth of the Yucca brevifolia, otherwise known as the Joshua tree, for which the park is named. The Colorado Desert supports the growth of dense brush vegetation including shrubs, cactus, and small trees. If you are a Bugs Bunny fan like we are, think of Wile E. Coyote and the Road Runner landscapes, and that is Joshua Tree.

Things to Know about Joshua Tree National Park:

An important aspect to planning your trip to Joshua Tree National Park is to remember you are visiting the desert. The climate and conditions can be difficult and unforgiving.
In Summer the temperatures routinely soar above 100 degrees. (It’s a dry heat, right?) Potable water is available in only limited areas of the park. Make sure you prepare and bring along plenty of water for everyone in your group.
In Winter the days are short and the temperature drops very quickly once the sun goes down. Remember to dress in layers and prepare for potentially frigid temperatures.
Spring can be a lovely time to visit when all the desert flowers are in bloom, and Fall visits also allow for milder daily temperatures. However, with the milder weather will also come the crowds. If possible, avoid the weekend and enjoy mid-week trips which allow for the smaller crowds in the park.
There are no lodging facilities in the park. You will find places to stay in the surrounding communities, however. There is camping available in the park and in nearby areas.
There are no grocery stores or restaurants in the park. However, several picnic areas are available in the park.
The cell phone service in the park is extremely limited.
Expect to encounter wildlife. (During our time in the park we saw snakes, big spiders, and coyotes – story to follow later.) Keep your distance and do not feed the animals.
Dogs must be on leash at all times and are not allowed on the trails.

Our Favorite Things to do in Joshua Tree National Park:

Star Gazing

My favorite time spent at Joshua Tree was definitely the opportunity for star gazing. Located in the high desert and hundreds of miles from the nearest city’s light pollution, the night sky is dazzling. I’ve read the starry sky is best viewed on the eastern side of the park, but to me the view is pretty spectacular from everywhere. We did not research the moon’s phases before our trip and plan accordingly for the darkest possible sky. We did have a fairly bright moon, but we were still astonished by the twinkling skies overhead.

Hiking

Joshua Tree National Park offers many hiking options for those who may be looking for either a short walk or a moderate or even challenging hike. Link: For information about all trails in the park and back country hiking.

Our time in the park was limited, so we were only able to hike one trail while visiting. We chose Lost Horse Loop, a 6.5 mile trek, which afforded us the opportunity to see and explore Lost Horse Mine, an old gold mine in the park. Todd and I visited Joshua Tree in April during the park’s high season. Although the park campgrounds were full of visitors, we did not encounter many folks on this trail, making for a lovely hike. The desert views along the trail were stunning.

While we didn’t encounter many hikers, we did encounter a snake. I don’t like snakes – at all. It’s not rational. I know that. It’s typically Todd’s job to walk in front to see and warn me about snakes on trails. He missed this one somehow, and I saw it first. Which meant I spent the remainder of the hike with my eyes glued to the ground, not trusting Todd to keep an eye out, and watching my every step. Sadly, I think I missed a lot of views on the latter half of the hike.

I also have to note, that while we didn’t see a lot of folks on the trail that day, some that we did see were ill-prepared for what they were doing. While it’s important in all parks and on all trails to have the proper equipment and supplies along, I can’t stress enough how very important it is in Joshua Tree to come prepared to hike. The desert can be unrelenting and stretches out in every direction for as far as the eye can see. You need plenty of water, sturdy shoes, a first aid kit, clothing layers, sun protection, and a solid sense of direction before heading out on a hike as some of the trails wind through wadis and hillsides that have multiple switchbacks, twists and turns. Joshua Tree National Park is not the place to just jump out of your car and start a hike willy-nilly. Respect the inherent dangers of the desert.

Climbing

Joshua Tree is a haven for the rock climbing community. Todd and I are not climbers, but I have to say spending an afternoon watching the climbers around our campground was spectacular.

In the park we pitched our tent at Hidden Valley campground, a busy spot for climbers. By the time we arrived at the park, and then found and set up our campsite, the afternoon was winding down. We decided to scramble up some rock formations and just take in both the scenery and the action. With a small picnic, a blanket, and a couple books, we settled into a spot as high as we dared go, which afforded us sweeping views in every direction. From our perch we could watch novice climbers with their instructors, experienced climbing teams, and some folks who were scrambling up rocks to places they had no business going. We wiled away the late afternoon keeping tabs on everyone’s progress.

Hidden Valley views from our perch with our tent tucked into the rocks

The most heart stopping climbing exhibition we saw came the next morning during breakfast. We saw our first free solo climb. Free soloing is climbing unassisted – no ropes, no harnesses and no type of protective equipment whatsoever. The climber relies solely on his strength and abilities.

As we were enjoying our breakfast I glanced up and saw the climber begin his ascent. At first I was amazed. It was a little thrilling. Within a few moments the mother in me kicked in, however. I wanted him to stop before he hurt himself. As our breakfast continued, every once in a while I would sneak a peek to make sure he hadn’t fallen. It was unnerving to watch. Once he made it to the top, he sat on the ledge for a little rest and to take in the view. I imagine it was something to see. His decent was slower and seemed to be a little more of a challenge for him. Once he reached the ground, he just walked away.

Rock face in Hidden Valley that we watched the climber free solo

Camping and Coyotes

Joshua Tree National Park has eight campgrounds featuring almost 500 campsites. It’s important to note that only two campgrounds, Black Rock and Cottonwood (with 161 sites between them), have access to water and are equipped with flush toilets. There are no electrical hookups in the park, and cell phone reception is all but non-existent. During the high season, October through May, campgrounds often fill up on weekends, and from February through May campsites are usually full during the week as well. Campsites at Black Rock and Indian Cove can be reserved during the high season, and you can reserve group sites located in other campgrounds. But year round, most sites are first-come, first-served, and in summertime, all campsites are available first-come, first-served. Some campgrounds are closed during the summer months. There is a good bit of camping available outside the park in the surrounding area.

During our April visit, Todd and I arrived just after check-in time to locate an available campsite. We drove through several full campgrounds before finally coming upon an open spot in the Hidden Valley Campground. Depending on the campground, a camp site costs $15-$20 per night, and payment is made by dropping registration envelopes in drop boxes located at each campground.

Hidden Valley is a great and centrally located campground that’s surrounded by large boulders, rock outcroppings, and Joshua trees. Campsites are fairly well spaced apart and each includes a picnic table and fire ring. No water is available at Hidden Valley and must be carried in with you. But it does have pit toilets.

We set up our tent on an extremely windy day and thought we were being smart (and very lucky) to have the rock formations at the site that allowed us to tuck in our tent as a wind break. The large boulders around us formed a tunnel. We slid our tent right into the mouth of the tunnel and away from the high winds. Little did we know, our tent set up would eventually come back to haunt us-and potentially bite us. But in the meantime, we passed the afternoon watching the climbers in the area. Later, we decided to climb the rocks above our tent and enjoy the sunset.

Todd enjoying the sunset and a glass of wine on the rocks above our tent. Notice him searching in vain for a cell signal as well.

As nighttime overtook the desert, we enjoyed dinner around the campfire, marveled at the starry sky, and finished the rest of the bottle of wine while coyotes howling at each other serenaded in the distance. As we sat by the fire, we even had one coyote run through the adjacent campsite about 20 yards away. It was a little bit startling, but he ran away as quickly as he had shown up. Eventually at about 11 pm or so, we retired to the tent for the evening exhausted, but relishing everything the park had offered us that day.

But you know how it sometimes can go… a bottle of wine, a starry night, an evening of intimate campfire conversation, and rather quickly one thing led to another inside the tent. I don’t know how much time passed, but I remember hearing a coyote howl off in the distance. The next thing I remember was MANY coyotes howling back their reply. However, these howls were surrounding our tent on all sides – just RIGHT outside the walls. Todd and I froze immediately. I looked at him, and he looked at me with big eyes while we heard a deep growl just outside the tent, the only thing separating us from the coyote being the tent wall – not very reassuring. I can’t speak for Todd, but my heart immediately started beating even faster than it was previously! Todd jumped up and grabbed the hatchet. I’m not sure what he thought he was going to do. But just like that, the coyotes were gone. Of course, we immediately realized that we had tucked our tent right into the mouth of a tunnel that has probably long served as a concealed avenue of movement for the coyotes in the area. At least we can say the romance was the only thing actually killed that night!

Joshua Tree really is a magical and mystical place, and if you ever get the chance, by all means visit. It is beautiful. But don’t underestimate that at its core, it can be an unforgiving and rugged desert landscape. However if you respect the inherent dangers that spending time in the desert can present you, it will be a wonderful experience. Just be careful. You don’t want to experience your own version of … as Todd and I now fondly refer to our evening in Joshua Tree … “coyotus interuptus.” “Beep Beep,” or should that read, “Bleep Bleep.”

April 20, 2018April 20, 2018

Yosemite is as Spectacular as You Think!

California has never been much of a draw for me. Or maybe I should say, Southern California has never held much appeal. I have traveled to the Los Angeles area a few times in my life, and always left wondering what the allure was about. Sure the weather is pleasant enough, but the traffic, the desert landscape, the lack of public transit, and the lack of architectural character leave a lot to be desired. While I have visited some lovely art galleries and flea markets in LA, and I could certainly get behind a tour of the stars’ homes, it mostly feels like a manufactured city. Portrayals of Southern California in the media leave the impression that it is full of superficial people, or those who are full of broken dreams.

When I tell someone that I grew up in Illinois, the immediate assumption is that I’m from Chicago. But I hail from the cornfields in central Illinois, which are a world away from Chicago. It took me some time before I realized that I was making this same assumption about California. California is not just Southern California and LA. Once we finally took the time to explore what the rest of the state has to offer – the central farmlands, the coast, and of course, the Bay Area – we were hooked.

A favored stop for us during our California road trip was Yosemite, and it is hard to find the words to explain how stunning the sight of Yosemite Valley truly is if you haven’t had the opportunity to see it for yourself. All the pictures I’ve ever seen in books, on-line, or on television, truly don’t do it justice. When you stand there and look across the valley, the grandeur and beauty of the natural wonders are genuinely awe-inspiring.

President Abraham Lincoln signed the Yosemite Grant in 1864 which, first and foremost, protected the Yosemite Valley from development. In later years, naturalist John Muir lobbied to include the surrounding mountains and forests within the protected zone making Yosemite the precedent for the U.S. National Park system. Today Yosemite National Park is roughly the size of Rhode Island and averages more than 4 million visitors each year.

Todd and my travels brought us to Yosemite in late April, so the weather was pleasant during our stay and the crowds were manageable. As a majority of park visitors do, we spent most of our time in Yosemite Valley, an area of about 6 square miles. During winter and spring, roads in the upper elevations of the park are closed due to snow and ice cover, and we happened to visit during the three-year restoration project that has closed Mariposa Grove, a sequoia grove located near Wawona, California in the southern area of the park. The restoration project is scheduled to be complete in June of 2018.

Our “Tunnel View” pic – a Yosemite Park view made famous by Ansel Adams. El Capitan, Half Dome and Bridalveil Falls in the background.

During our stay in Yosemite, Todd and I stayed in Camp 4 which is a “walk-in” campground where spots are first-come, first-served and cost $6 per person, per night. A parking lot is located adjacent to the campground and all equipment must be carried into the camp sites. The campground is fairly primitive and not much to look at, although there are bathrooms with running water and flush toilets. Recognized for the importance it played as the center of the development of the sport of rock climbing in the years following World War II, Camp 4 was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2003. The campground continues to draw many rock climbers who use it as their home-base while climbing in the park, and many of our fellow campers could be found bouldering in the immediate areas near Camp 4 at all times of the day.

Camp 4 has thirty-five shared tent-only sites each accommodating up to six campers. Four bear-proof food lockers are provided at each site along with a fire ring and two picnic tables. Todd and I arrived in the late afternoon, and although the camp was fairly full, we found an open spot easily enough. Since it was off-season, we self-registered that evening, then had to register for the remainder of our stay with the park ranger who came on-duty the next morning at 8:30 a.m. During high season and especially over holidays, it is important to arrive very early in the day to secure a campsite in Camp 4.

What I loved most about Camp 4 is the communal style camping. Todd and I shared our camp site with two young couples. Both couples were several months into extended travel adventures. The first couple had just finished working the ski season in Vail, Colorado and were on their way to Alaska to work the summer season with a tour company. The second couple was young professionals who had quit their jobs to take some time to see the world. They had recently accepted jobs working the forest fire season in Oregon to earn more money to continue their travels. They were slowly working their way up to Oregon in the coming weeks with several more National Park stops along the way. I thoroughly enjoyed our few evenings spent with these young friends around the campfire talking into the wee hours and drinking wine. Both of them happened to have recently traveled to Thailand. We enjoyed hearing stories from their trips, and we shared with them about our time spent in Europe just a few weeks before.

One thing that struck me on our first evening with our young friends was a discussion about firewood. Park regulations forbid picking up firewood in the park forests. They also forbid bringing in firewood from other places – there is a danger of insect infestation and disease. Firewood must be purchased locally. Both young couples mentioned that while they had been out shopping for supplies, they had passed over firewood because of the expense. In the store, Todd and I gasped at the purchase price, shrugged, and bought the firewood. Who wants to camp without a fire – right? It made me think though: I truly admire the adventurous spirits of both these young couples. While Todd and I have been indulging in a bit a wanderlust these last few years, and intend to do so for the foreseeable future, we are doing so after decades of professional life and from a place of more financial security. Todd and I had kids very young, and for us, quitting a job to see the world was not an option when we were in our twenties. But otherwise, I wonder, would we ever have considered taking such a leap of faith in our youth? Would we have wanted to? Is there one stage of life when travel is more fulfilling than at other stages? Hmmm… What I do know is that at this place in our life we’ve adopted a budget traveler style, but we can also afford the firewood when we want it…. and I appreciate that in our travels.

One of our favorite days at Yosemite was spent hiking the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail. A historic trail in the park, it was built between 1873 and 1877, and climbs to the top of Yosemite Falls, the tallest waterfall in North America. It’s not an easy climb and I have since read that not only is the trail long – over 7 1/2 miles round trip – it’s the equivalent of climbing a little more than TWO Empire State Buildings. Todd and I were fortunate to be at the park in spring when the falls are full from the runoff of the melting winter snows. By late summer, the falls can dry up completely, however.

Yosemite Falls with spring waters roaring!

While on the trail, I appreciated and reflected on the amount of work it must have taken crews – given the tools and technology in the late 1800’s – to carve out such a trail. Several areas had stair-steps carved into the granite, and I thought about what it would have been like to be a tourist on this trail so many years ago when it was new. Certainly Todd and I would have hired men to carry our supplies for us. Our trip to enjoy Yosemite would have likely included an entire traveling party instead of just the two of us, and our picnic lunch at the top of the falls would have been a much more elaborate affair. The other ladies and I would have been climbing in our period dresses with our sturdy boots, and carpets would have been brought up with us to lay out on the ground before we sat down to enjoy our meal – an ordeal indeed! (To see images of early tourists at Yosemite click here. )

All trails in Yosemite Valley can be crowded, and while we had plenty of fellow hikers along with us to the top of the falls, it really didn’t diminish the experience. I enjoyed the sense of community along the trail as we hiked. Because of how strenuous the hike is, there was a good deal of both mutual grumbling and mutual encouragement expressed by everyone along the route. My legs were burning on the climb up and my knees were sore on the way down. But as we descended, I appreciated a certain sense of accomplishment as I was finally able to be the one who could tell the tired and doubting climbers that it would indeed be worth the effort once they reached the top – the VIEW!

Yosemite is truly a one of a kind gem in the U.S. National Park system. It took Todd and I a long time to give California a chance. But with the grandeur and stunning natural wonder of Yosemite waiting for you…get out there SOONER rather than later.

(For complete information about Yosemite National Park click here.)