A Charleston Weekend- Eat, Stay, and the High Water Festival

A few years ago I was driving cross-country to drop my youngest off at college when I first heard Hozier’s song, “Take Me to Church.” Hozier, a musician who hails from Ireland, and his debut song, that has a distinctly bluesy feel, hooked me straightaway. After setting up my daughter in her dorm, I drove home and immediately set up a “Hozier” station on Pandora.

Around my house – whether I’m working, relaxing, cooking, etc. – I tend to always have some background noise. (Hmm…I suppose I don’t like to be left alone with my own thoughts for very long, and prefer the distraction?)  Sometimes it is a television tuned to some movie or show that I’ve seen so many times that I don’t have to pay attention to it, or more often, it is music. After dropping off my daughter at college, I spent a good deal of time playing my new Hozier station in my newly empty-nest.

If I had to apply a label to my musical tastes for most of my adult life, I’d have defined myself as a classic rock aficionado. Although, I’ve certainly spent a good many years driving teenagers around, listening to whatever music kept them happy in the car. As a result, I’m fairly well versed in music from bands like Disturbed and Linkin Park, and I’m quite a fan of Staind. I know the lyrics to far TOO MANY Taylor Swift songs, and both Kesha’s “Tik Tok and “Self Esteem by The Offspring will be on my funeral soundtrack. However, many of the artists that Pandora was curating for me on my new Hozier station really resonated with me in a new and exciting way.

As I listened to Pandora and a song would catch my ear, I’d glance up to see who the artist was. When I found myself glancing up during several different songs by the same artist or band, I figured I must like their music and would begin to do some research on them – their tour schedule, albums, etc. Before long, Todd and I found ourselves becoming big fans of many of these artists – The Head and The Heart, City and Colour, Iron and Wine, The Avett Brothers, Margo and the Nuclear So and So’s, The Civil Wars, Mandolin Orange, Gregory Alan Isakov, along with many others and Hozier, of course. We also started attending concerts every chance we got with our new empty-nester free time, and were fortunate to see many of these artists perform live. Todd and I may have arrived late to the indie music party, but now that we are here, we are developing into bona-fide groupies. This led us to jump at the chance to attend the High Water Festival and enjoy a wonderful weekend of food and music in Charleston, South Carolina recently.

Charleston, always a popular destination, has become a much deserved hot-hot destination in the last several years. Located roughly at the mid-point on South Carolina’s coast line, Charleston is rich in history, and its historic districts and cobblestone streets can’t help but draw you in. From harbor views, to beautifully preserved architecture, and outstanding restaurants, you can’t go wrong with a visit to this lovely and extremely friendly city. Our time in Charleston was limited and specifically structured around the High Water Festival, but for more information about things to do and planning a stay in Charleston see here.

Our Charleston Lodging – NotSo Hostel

Lodging in Charleston, especially in the popular downtown area, can be very expensive. Knowing we would be spending most of our time in Charleston at the festival, we chose to stick with more modest accommodations. The NotSo Hostel fit the bill for us perfectly. Located in a vibrant downtown neighborhood, it is very walk-able to restaurants, businesses, and shops that boast a very local flair, and is convenient to many of the more well-traveled areas of the city.

The NotSo Hostel hosts two locations in the Cannonborough/Elliotborough neighborhood in downtown – a main location on Spring Street and the annex location on Cannon Street. We reserved a room at the Annex. The Annex has only private rooms with a shared kitchen and bathrooms along with a common sitting area. The main location boasts suites, private rooms, and dorm room spaces in addition to the shared kitchen and common space. With fewer rooms in the Annex, it tends to be a quieter stay.

Hotels in the Charleston area easily command $250 a night or more in weekend rates. In comparison, the NotSo Hostel rates are much easier on the wallet. Dorms run $32 a night on weekends, while private rooms at each location will cost $78 – $85. A Suite with private bath will set you back roughly $100. Parking – often hard to come by in downtown Charleston – is included.

Our presence at the NotSo Hostel Annex certainly raised the average age of weekend hostel guests, but none the less, our stay was very enjoyable. The rooms were clean and decorated well with all the necessary comforts. The check-in process was extremely easy and streamlined. Our credit card was charged two days before our stay, and a code to unlock the front door was emailed to us one day prior enabling us to head directly to the Annex for a 2 PM check-in, and begin our weekend fun.

One thing I most appreciated about the NotSo Hostel was my introduction to sleeping with ear plugs. The hostel is located in a buzzing part of downtown, and naturally some street noise does drift up to the rooms. A bowl of ear plugs is provided in each of the guest rooms, so on a whim I decided to give them a try. I’ve been sleeping with earplugs almost every night since – game changer.

*For more information about NotSo Hostel see here.

Our Charleston Eats

Prohibition – King Street

Within easy walking distance of the NotSo Hostel Annex, we arrived at Prohibition on Saturday afternoon just in time to make the tail end of the brunch service. We were glad we did. The atmosphere is outstanding, and we began our meal with a cocktail – I wholeheartedly recommend the raspberry peach belini! We enjoyed our meals ordering:  Shrimp and Grits; Corned Beef Hash; and Chicken & Biscuits along with their Grass-Fed Angus Burger.  Delicious food and superb service! I will head back to Prohibition to enjoy their bar and dinner menu soon, but it’s a good choice for any time of day!

*For more information about Prohibition see here.

Hominy Grill – Rutledge Street

Todd and I have been to Hominy Grill before and were highly anticipating another leisurely Sunday morning breakfast.

Be prepared to wait for a table! I don’t often like to wait for seating. I’m usually too hungry for much delaying. However, I will always wait for as long as it takes to eat at Hominy Grill.

We arrived on Sunday morning around eleven and the wait was 1 hour.  (Interestingly, many of the restaurant patrons were wearing High Water wrist bands along with us!) There is very little seating available in the waiting area, so the crowd spills out into the street in front of the building. They do have a bar window where you can purchase drinks to enjoy while you wait for your table. However, be prepared to stand in line for the bar service as well.

I honestly think you can order anything off the Hominy Grill menu, and you will leave happy. However, on the menu pay special attention to the Charleston Nasty Biscuit – with a fried chicken breast, sausage gravy, and cheese. You also cannot go wrong with the Slow Smoked Pork Belly Grit Bowl with farm egg & cheddar cheese. And finally whatever you do, never pass on the She Crab Soup – YUM!

*For more information about Hominy Grill see here.

High Water Festival

The High Water Festival’s inaugural year was 2017, and it’s success has so far propelled it into at least 2019. Billed as “A Celebration of Music, Food, and Libations,” the festival truly celebrates the spirit of Charleston offering a little bit for everyone. The music is naturally showcased, but through the Low Tide Social, the festival’s kick-off party, and Pass the Peas, a brunch showcasing local chefs and their favorite dishes, the best of Southern Cuisine is placed center-stage as well. Rounding out the low country festival experiences are opportunities to attend oyster education classes to learn everything you may want to know about this regional favorite.

Naturally what mainly drew Todd and I to the festival was the lineup of music artists. Curated by Shovels & Rope, a folk duo who hail from Charleston, the 2018 lineup was not to be missed:  Jason Isbell and The 400 Unit, Brandi Carlile, St. Paul and the Broken Bones, Jeff Tweedy, Shakey Graves, Band of Horses, and of course, Shovels and Rope among many, many others. The music was fantastic. Throughout the weekend we enjoyed both the artists we already love and have previously seen perform live, and we were exposed to many artists who were new to us. We loved all of it!

Staged at Riverfront Park in North Charleston, the Festival was very well run:  The stands selling food and libations were plentiful. The grounds provided adequate space for the crowd, and they remained free of trash and debris the entire weekend. Parking was convenient, and traffic flowed well during both arrival and departure times each day. As luck would have it for us, both days of  High Water 2018 boasted perfect festival weather – which always helps.

As most music festivals go, ticket prices for High Water are steep. They offer an early bird tiered rate for tickets depending on the date of purchase.  An even steeper VIP ticket with special perks is offered each year as well. (The VIP area had upgraded portable toilets… might just be worth it?) Particularly admirable is a community volunteer program the festival employs for folks who don’t have the available funds to purchase a ticket. Volunteer opportunities in the Charleston area are offered to those who sign up for the limited number of slots. Upon completion of the community service, a High Water ticket is earned. A great program!

*To keep tabs on upcoming information for the 2019 High Water Festival see here.

Between our very pleasant stay at the NotSo Hostel, some top-notch restaurant choices, and the 2018 High Water Festival, Todd and I enjoyed a perfect Charleston weekend. We’ll be back again next year, and are eagerly awaiting the release of the 2019 artist lineup next fall. Come April 13-14, 2019, you will know where to find us! …and maybe with access to the upgraded toilets?

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Preface: Our Second Chapter Life

The last of our kids left the nest a few years ago.  Having started our family quite unexpectedly while still in college, it seems we’ve been parents for as long as I can remember.  It has been a wonderful struggle, with the usual ups and downs, but now we’ve moved onto our new chapter.

When Todd was turning 50 his crisis manifested itself in the usual way.  He bought a sports car.  He loves that car.  It makes him happy.  Also being a walking stereotype, my mid-life has manifested itself into a need to almost re-invent my sense of myself:  Always lived in the suburbs?  Let’s move to the city!  Never had the time or money to see the world?  Let’s hit the road!  I find I’m on a journey to seemingly make sure I that didn’t miss something during my twenties, thirties, and forties, that were spent up to my elbows first in diapers, then school science projects, and finally in travel sports teams.

What I’m finding out about our life is that I wouldn’t change a thing about the flow and stages of our 30+ years together.  And most importantly, I’m finding that Todd and I still like each other even without our kids around.  I’m fortunate that Todd is willing to, at times, suspend his disbelief, indulge me, and come along to grow together on this new journey.   Now we have the time, more funds, and luxury to live and travel the way we want to without as many life constraints.  What began as a bit of wanderlust on my part has transformed itself into the best journey the two of us have been on together.  In this forum, I’ll be sharing the highs, the lows, the laughs, and the lessons that we’ve learned, as well as those we have yet to learn along the way.