Category: Travel

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Seeking: Local and Authentic Travel Experiences

This morning I happened to open the “favorites” file on my computer while looking for an old recipe, and instead came across an old file titled “retirement trip.” A few years ago, in anticipation of Todd’s impending retirement from the Army, I began carefully curating articles and videos I came across that I felt could best inform our long anticipated celebratory travels. With titles like, “Italy’s Most Charming Seaside Villages,” and  “The 5 Best Places You’ve Never Heard Of,” and with sub-folders organizing information by country, I enjoyed re-reading some of the information and tips we had referred to while building our itinerary.

One article that particularly jumped out at me was “How to Have the Sistine Chapel All to Yourself.” I clearly remembered reading this article a few years ago, and thinking how it would come in handy. Having been to the Sistine Chapel twice since then, both times I realized too late that I didn’t remind myself to take heed of the author’s advice or the hacks. When I think of some of the most inauthentic travel experiences Todd and I have had, our time spent at the Sistine Chapel always comes to mind.

First let me say, I would never advise against visiting the Sistine Chapel when visiting Rome for the first time. It truly is a magnificent wonder. But it is an experience that can only be described, at best, as a “cattle call.” Throngs of tourists are corralled into the chapel together – easily hundreds and hundreds at one time. For me, it was not the crowd, nor the constant murmur of nearby conversations that was distracting. But rather, the booming and incessant announcements by a guard with reminders to be silent, and that pictures are not allowed, are what kept me from carving out a space in my mind where I could be in the moment and take in the wonder of that ceiling. Both of our visits were somewhat unsatisfying in the least.

When you read articles about how to enhance your travels with better local experiences, often authors will say, “skip the big, crowded tourist attractions.” What? I’m certainly not going to Paris, at least the first time, without going to see the Mona Lisa or the Eiffel Tower. That doesn’t make any sense. These places are famous for a reason. They are beautiful and awe-inspiring. And when it comes down to it, we all need a few of those “I was there” selfies in our photo collections. But, after having been to New York City more times than I can remember, it’s true. You are not going to find me in Times Square, unless I happen to be traveling with someone who has not yet seen it for themselves. The best and most memorable travel comes when you can strike a balance between seeing what “must” be seen with other more local and authentic experiences along the way. Todd and I enhance our local experiences through a combination of doing our research, getting ourselves out of our comfort zone, and always asking questions along the way.

Doing our Research

Finding the right mix of tourist attractions and local attractions can be a delicate balance. Before heading to any destination, I will search the internet for one of the many available articles about what the “top ten things to do” in any locale may happen to be. After reading it, I immediately start to parcel the list down according to how long our stay in the area will be, and what our priorities are. If we are only going to be somewhere for a few days, we don’t want to spend all of that time in lines for tourist attractions. We might only make one or two stops on that list – the real “have to see” places. Next, I will search out articles from blogs or local publications that focus more on describing sights that are favorites for locals – parks, museums, beaches, and hikes. Many of these places will often be free or very low-cost, and will absolutely enhance your visit.

You can never go wrong by learning at least a few words in the local language. I have to admit that Todd is much better than I am about learning a few words and phrases, and then actually putting them to use in our travels. He has a much better ear for languages than I do, giving him more confidence to try other languages with ease. You can’t underestimate how much locals appreciate and are willing to engage when you are at least giving their language a try.

Reading travel books and blogs, as well as, both fiction and non-fiction books to get a better feel for local customs, history, and current events is a must. For us, this point is best illustrated by our trips to Athens. It wasn’t until after our first visit to the city that a friend put several books from The Athenian Mysteries Series, written by Gary Corby, into our hands. They are entertaining, light, and amusing books, but what I like best is his ability to weave classical antiquity into his stories so well. His plots use a combination of fictional characters interwoven with recurring historical figures. From each book in the series, without even trying, the reader learns so much about Classical Athens – the culture and mores, issues of both local and regional politics, family life, law, social customs and hierarchy, and religious beliefs.

Having just returned from Athens when I started reading the series, I enjoyed remembering many of the ancient sites detailed in the books. As I read, I clearly remembered standing at the Acropolis with our tour guide as she pointed out the Areopagus and explained its significance. But after reading the books and returning to Athens, our time there was so much more enriched by the historical knowledge we had gained. For instance, on our first visit we had bypassed visiting the site of the ancient agora, or public meeting space and market. On our return trip to Athens, I was very excited to finally see the space that had played a large role in many of the books, as well as to finally understand exactly what a stoa, or building where public business was conducted, looked like. Our second trip to Athens was so much better informed – just by reading for pleasure.

Getting Out of Our Comfort Zone

We stay away from hotels and instead try to use Airbnb to book apartment style accommodations or we use hostels and even Couchsurfing. Todd and I go out of our way to stay in places where we are more likely to engage with locals more regularly.  Often times hotels can be too insulated from the neighborhood and residents. But while shopping for needed supplies in neighborhood stores, going to and from an apartment building each day, and enjoying small neighborhood restaurants, we are more likely to meet local residents and interact in more meaningful ways.   

Monday laundry day in our Rome apartment building

My favorite example of how getting out of a hotel can enrich local experiences came during our stay in Rome. We stayed in a modest apartment building whose residents were mostly local families. The weather was beautiful. Each morning and evening we enjoyed having the windows open to listen to the hum of sounds in the building’s center courtyard and from the other apartments. We enjoyed a violinist who practiced each morning; neighbors chatting; kids playing; and family sounds floating out of other apartment windows – dishes clinking, bits and pieces of conversations, and bouts of laughter. As every sound floated up from below, it was obvious that there were not many secrets in the building. One evening was spent listening to a couple have an argument (in German) and throwing some glass bottles. One Monday, however, was wash day for me. We were moving on from Rome the next day, so I took some time to do our laundry before heading out. As I was out on the balcony hanging our clothes on the line, I looked around and saw four of my neighbors doing the same. I got a kick out of being in sync with my neighbors, and being a small part of that week’s laundry day!

There is no better window into the rhythms of a city and the lives of its residents than public transportation. We use public transportation – buses, trains, and subways – every chance we get while traveling. First, I think we just plain enjoy the challenge of trying to see if we can get ourselves from point A to point B in a foreign city. Are we buying the correct ticket? Getting on the correct bus? It can be a trial, and it certainly would be easier and quicker to just hire a car to get where we are going. But the people watching, and potential interactions, afforded us during a long bus or subway ride, can be so insightful. Sure there are always some other tourists on the bus, but watching kids on their way to school, and adults heading to work or just going about their business, can give us such a feel for the natural rhythms of an everyday morning.

One of my favorite hours or so in Santorini was spent in the town square in the village of Emporio waiting for the bus to Fira. Todd and I walked from our little house to the bus stop. We stood and tried to decipher the bus schedule at the corner. But after a short while, we gave up and figured one would be along sooner or later. I settled in on a bench next to an elderly gentleman who had the most beautiful blue eyes. It was immediately obvious that language was a barrier for us, but we gestured pleasant greetings to one another. After a few minutes, Todd wandered down the street to explore some local shops. I watched as almost every car stopped at the corner, and the drivers paused to speak with the gentleman – always with deference. Every pedestrian stopped and spoke to him as well. I realized that he was not waiting for the bus, but rather seemed to just be passing the time in the square with his neighbors. Soon he started gesturing, and I looked up to see a bus coming. I could tell he was searching for Todd, but of course, Todd was nowhere to be seen. I let the bus pass, and the gentleman and I shrugged and chuckled. Todd wandered back, and eventually another bus came along. The next day, we rented a car. Our little group’s lodging was split between Emporio and Fira, making the competing bus schedules too cumbersome to manage. I saw the gentlemen the next evening. Seeing him from the car window was not nearly as satisfying as sitting with him and watching the world go by from the bench in the village square.

Asking Questions Along the Way

No one is immune from our endless questions. Ticket agents, tour guides, bus drivers, waiters, shop keepers, hostel staff, Airbnb hosts, Uber drivers, other travelers – we will pepper anyone with our questions. Where should we eat? What should we see and do? What do they know that we should know about a city? Where should we go next? How should we get there? We have found that if you take the time to reach out to them, most folks want to share their knowledge of their city or country with you. More often than not, they will point you in the best directions.

Every one of us are tourists during our travels. But by taking the time to do your research, get out of your comfort zone, and ask questions, you will enhance your travels with opportunities for more local and authentic experiences that will only make your trip that much better. I’m all about visiting the local tourist hot spots. But once you’re done, it’s time to just wander down the local streets and get yourself a little lost. Finding an out-of-the-way bookstore or cafe or market, and enhancing your local experiences, is when the magic happens. It makes travel all the richer, and makes your visit all the more personal. You often see a tourist destination with a hundred of your closest, newest friends. But, by grabbing a bottle of wine and finding the perfect out-of-the-way location to enjoy the sunset with your significant other, you create a memory of a lifetime.

 

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Joshua Tree National Park – A Magical but Rugged Desert Landscape

I’ve long been a Gram Parsons fan.  Growing up, his second solo album, Grievous Angel, was a particular favorite in our house.  With much of our musical tastes heavily influenced by our college age brother, my sister and I would listen to the album over and over and over again. Even if you are a young fan, you can’t be a fan of Gram Parsons without knowing about the connection he had with Joshua Tree, and ultimately, the story of his untimely death there in 1973.  Link:  For the complete story see Rolling Stone‘s 1973 account of Gram Parson’s death.

Growing up as a Gram Parson’s fan, and hearing continued references to it over the years, Joshua Tree has always occupied a magical – and an almost mystical – place in my imagination. When Todd and I finally had the opportunity to visit, we jumped at the chance. Located in the California desert near Palm Springs, the town of Joshua Tree has long been a draw and haven for artists and musicians. With a funky vibe and very authentic feel, you will find locally owned live music venues, restaurants, art galleries, and shops ready for you to explore and enjoy. Don’t miss the opportunity to spend some time in town before or after your time in the park. It will be time and money very well spent.

Covering slighter more area than the state of Rhode Island, Joshua Tree National Park is located in the unforgiving desert landscape of Southern California. It’s actually the place where two deserts, the Mojave and the Colorado, meet, and each desert has it own distinctive ecosystem. The Mojave Desert has higher elevations and cooler temperatures which support the growth of the Yucca brevifolia, otherwise known as the Joshua tree, for which the park is named. The Colorado Desert supports the growth of dense brush vegetation including shrubs, cactus, and small trees. If you are a Bugs Bunny fan like we are, think of Wile E. Coyote and the Road Runner landscapes, and that is Joshua Tree.

A view of the Joshua Trees

Things to Know about Joshua Tree National Park: 

  • An important aspect to planning your trip to Joshua Tree National Park is to remember you are visiting the desert. The climate and conditions can be difficult and unforgiving.
  • In Summer the temperatures routinely soar above 100 degrees. (It’s a dry heat, right?) Potable water is available in only limited areas of the park. Make sure you prepare and bring along plenty of water for everyone in your group.
  • In Winter the days are short and the temperature drops very quickly once the sun goes down. Remember to dress in layers and prepare for potentially frigid temperatures.
  • Spring can be a lovely time to visit when all the desert flowers are in bloom, and Fall visits also allow for milder daily temperatures. However, with the milder weather will also come the crowds. If possible, avoid the weekend and enjoy mid-week trips which allow for the smaller crowds in the park.
  • There are no lodging facilities in the park. You will find places to stay in the surrounding communities, however. There is camping available in the park and in nearby areas.
  • There are no grocery stores or restaurants in the park. However, several picnic areas are available in the park.
  • The cell phone service in the park is extremely limited.
  • Expect to encounter wildlife. (During our time in the park we saw snakes, big spiders, and coyotes – story to follow later.) Keep your distance and do not feed the animals.
  • Dogs must be on leash at all times and are not allowed on the trails.

Our Favorite Things to do in Joshua Tree National Park:

Star Gazing

My favorite time spent at Joshua Tree was definitely the opportunity for star gazing. Located in the high desert and hundreds of miles from the nearest city’s light pollution, the night sky is dazzling. I’ve read the starry sky is best viewed on the eastern side of the park, but to me the view is pretty spectacular from everywhere. We did not research the moon’s phases before our trip and plan accordingly for the darkest possible sky. We did have a fairly bright moon, but we were still astonished by the twinkling skies overhead.

Hiking

Joshua Tree National Park offers many hiking options for those who may be looking for either a short walk or a moderate or even challenging hike.  Link: For information about all trails in the park and back country hiking.

Our time in the park was limited, so we were only able to hike one trail while visiting. We chose Lost Horse Loop, a 6.5 mile trek, which afforded us the opportunity to see and explore Lost Horse Mine, an old gold mine in the park. Todd and I visited Joshua Tree in April during the park’s high season. Although the park campgrounds were full of visitors, we did not encounter many folks on this trail, making for a lovely hike. The desert views along the trail were stunning.

While we didn’t encounter many hikers, we did encounter a  snake. I don’t like snakes – at all. It’s not rational. I know that. It’s typically Todd’s job to walk in front to see and warn me about snakes on trails. He missed this one somehow, and I saw it first. Which meant I spent the remainder of the hike with my eyes glued to the ground, not trusting Todd to keep an eye out, and watching my every step. Sadly, I think I missed a lot of views on the latter half of the hike.

Lost Horse Loop views

I also have to note, that while we didn’t see a lot of folks on the trail that day, some that we did see were ill-prepared for what they were doing. While it’s important in all parks and on all trails to have the proper equipment and supplies along, I can’t stress enough how very important it is in Joshua Tree to come prepared to hike. The desert can be unrelenting and stretches out in every direction for as far as the eye can see. You need plenty of water, sturdy shoes, a first aid kit, clothing layers, sun protection, and a solid sense of direction before heading out on a hike as some of the trails wind through wadis and hillsides that have multiple switchbacks, twists and turns.  Joshua Tree National Park is not the place to just jump out of your car and start a hike willy-nilly. Respect the inherent dangers of the desert.

Hiking along Lost Mine Loop

Climbing

Joshua Tree is a haven for the rock climbing community. Todd and I are not climbers, but I have to say spending an afternoon watching the climbers around our campground was spectacular.

In the park we pitched our tent at Hidden Valley campground, a busy spot for climbers. By the time we arrived at the park, and then found and set up our campsite, the afternoon was winding down. We decided to scramble up some rock formations and just take in both the scenery and the action. With a small picnic, a blanket, and a couple books, we settled into a spot as high as we dared go, which afforded us sweeping views in every direction. From our perch we could watch novice climbers with their instructors, experienced climbing teams, and some folks who were scrambling up rocks to places they had no business going. We wiled away the late afternoon keeping tabs on everyone’s progress.

Hidden Valley views from our perch with our tent tucked into the rocks

The most heart stopping climbing exhibition we saw came the next morning during breakfast. We saw our first free solo climb. Free soloing is climbing unassisted – no ropes, no harnesses and no type of protective equipment whatsoever. The climber relies solely on his strength and abilities.

As we were enjoying our breakfast I glanced up and saw the climber begin his ascent. At first I was amazed. It was a little thrilling. Within a few moments the mother in me kicked in, however. I wanted him to stop before he hurt himself. As our breakfast continued, every once in a while I would sneak a peek to make sure he hadn’t fallen. It was unnerving to watch. Once he made it to the top, he sat on the ledge for a little rest and to take in the view. I imagine it was something to see. His decent was slower and seemed to be a little more of a challenge for him. Once he reached the ground, he just walked away.

Rock face in Hidden Valley that we watched the climber free solo

Camping and Coyotes

Joshua Tree National Park has eight campgrounds featuring almost 500 campsites. It’s important to note that only two campgrounds, Black Rock and Cottonwood (with 161 sites between them), have access to water and are equipped with flush toilets. There are no electrical hookups in the park, and cell phone reception is all but non-existent. During the high season, October through May, campgrounds often fill up on weekends, and from February through May campsites are usually full during the week as well. Campsites at Black Rock and Indian Cove can be reserved during the high season, and you can reserve group sites located in other campgrounds. But year round, most sites are first-come, first-served, and in summertime, all campsites are available first-come, first-served. Some campgrounds are closed during the summer months. There is a good bit of camping available outside the park in the surrounding area.

During our April visit, Todd and I arrived just after check-in time to locate an available campsite. We drove through several full campgrounds before finally coming upon an open spot in the Hidden Valley Campground. Depending on the campground, a camp site costs $15-$20 per night, and payment is made by dropping registration envelopes in drop boxes located at each campground.

Hidden Valley is a great and centrally located campground that’s surrounded by large boulders, rock outcroppings, and Joshua trees. Campsites are fairly well spaced apart and each includes a picnic table and fire ring. No water is available at Hidden Valley and must be carried in with you. But it does have pit toilets.

Our campsite at Hidden Valley

We set up our tent on an extremely windy day and thought we were being smart (and very lucky) to have the rock formations at the site that allowed us to tuck in our tent as a wind break. The large boulders around us formed a tunnel. We slid our tent right into the mouth of the tunnel and away from the high winds. Little did we know, our tent set up would eventually come back to haunt us-and potentially bite us. But in the meantime, we passed the afternoon watching the climbers in the area. Later, we decided to climb the rocks above our tent and enjoy the sunset.

Todd enjoying the sunset and a glass of wine on the rocks above our tent. Notice him searching in vain for a cell signal as well.

As nighttime overtook the desert, we enjoyed dinner around the campfire, marveled at the starry sky, and finished the rest of the bottle of wine while coyotes howling at each other serenaded in the distance. As we sat by the fire, we even had one coyote run through the adjacent campsite about 20 yards away. It was a little bit startling, but he ran away as quickly as he had shown up. Eventually at about 11 pm or so, we retired to the tent for the evening exhausted, but relishing everything the park had offered us that day.

But you know how it sometimes can go… a bottle of wine, a starry night, an evening of intimate campfire conversation, and rather quickly one thing led to another inside the tent. I don’t know how much time passed, but I remember hearing a coyote howl off in the distance. The next thing I remember was MANY coyotes howling back their reply. However, these howls were surrounding our tent on all sides – just RIGHT outside the walls. Todd and I froze immediately. I looked at him, and he looked at me with big eyes while we heard a deep growl just outside the tent, the only thing separating us from the coyote being the tent wall – not very reassuring. I can’t speak for Todd, but my heart immediately started beating even faster than it was previously! Todd jumped up and grabbed the hatchet. I’m not sure what he thought he was going to do. But just like that, the coyotes were gone. Of course, we immediately realized that we had tucked our tent right into the mouth of a tunnel that has probably long served as a concealed avenue of movement for the coyotes in the area. At least we can say the romance was the only thing actually killed that night!

Joshua Tree really is a magical and mystical place, and if you ever get the chance, by all means visit. It is beautiful. But don’t underestimate that at its core, it can be an unforgiving and rugged desert landscape. However if you respect the inherent dangers that spending time in the desert can present you, it will be a wonderful experience. Just be careful. You don’t want to experience your own version of … as Todd and I now fondly refer to our evening in Joshua Tree …  “coyotus interuptus.”  “Beep Beep,” or should that read, “Bleep Bleep.”

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Athens – Ancient History Packed in a Modern Cityscape

So many of Todd’s and my travels are influenced by books and movies. But in the case of our travels to Athens, Greece, the cart was put in front of the horse, so to speak. It wasn’t until after our first visit to the city that a friend put several books from The Athenian Mysteries Series, written by Gary Corby, into our hands. Once I began reading the first book, The Pericles Commission, I was hooked.

I find Mr. Corby’s book series completely engaging. They are entertaining, light, and amusing books, but what I like best is his ability to weave classical antiquity into his stories so well. His plots use a combination of fictional characters – like the hero of the series Nicolaos, a detective or “agent,” working for a young Pericles who is still early in his political career –  interwoven with recurring historical figures such as Socrates and Nicolaos’ love interest, Diotima. From each book in the series, without even trying, the reader learns so much about Classical Athens – the culture and mores, issues of both local and regional politics, family life, law, social customs and hierarchy, and religious beliefs.

Having just returned from Athens when I started reading the series, I enjoyed remembering many of the ancient sites detailed in the books.  The first book begins with a dead body that falls from the Areopagus, a large outcropping of rocks near the Acropolis. In classical times, the Areopagus functioned as the main court for prosecuting homicides in Athens. As I read, I clearly remembered standing at the Acropolis with our tour guide as she pointed out the Areopagus and explained its significance. But after reading the books and returning to Athens, our time there was so much more enriched by the historical knowledge we had gained. For instance, on our first visit we had bypassed visiting the site of the ancient agora, or public meeting space and market.  On our return trip to Athens, I was very excited to finally see the space that had played a large role in many of the books, as well as to finally understand exactly what a stoa, or building where public business was conducted, looked like. In fact, Todd and I were both total nerds about seeing a stoa for ourselves on that second trip.

What to see in Athens

For many travelers, a stay in Athens is little more than a stop off on the way to, or from, a longer trip to the Greek Islands. It is so unfortunate. Ancient Greece – not the Persians, nor the Egyptians, nor even the Romans – is the cornerstone of Western Civilization. The Greeks invented science, philosophy, drama, and of course, democracy, and at the epicenter of everything that defined Greece’s contributions to the ancient world was Athens.

Today the city has so much to offer travelers. But obviously, if pressed for time, the Acropolis is the most necessary stop on any itinerary. With most of its buildings dating from the 5th century BC, the Acropolis was a fortified area of the ancient city. Located on a rocky hill, rising high above the city, are the remains of many buildings that have great historical significance. The most famous of these buildings is, of course, the Parthenon.

The Acropolis and Parthenon lit at night might just be my favorite view in all of Athens.

Visible from most parts of the city, the view of the Acropolis is a wonder. I will never forget the first time we arrived in Athens.  We flew into the city late in the evening, and took the metro to Syntagma Square, the central square of the city. From there we walked to our hostel in Plaka, the old and historic neighborhood in Athens which is built as they like to say, “in the shadow of the Acropolis.” I will always remember turning the corner onto the street where our hostel was located, and suddenly being struck by the view. Stunning.

Another favorite Athens site for us is always the Panathenaic Stadium. Built in 1896 for the first modern Olympics, it is situated on the site of an ancient stadium constructed in 329 BC. It is a sight to see, and the entrance fee can buy you the opportunity to run a lap around a track where many Olympians have run before!

Book three of the Athenian Mysteries is set during the Games in 460 BC. Interestingly noted in the book is that all athletes competed naked and women were not allowed to be spectators nor enter the Olympic village.

Another must stop in Athens is the Acropolis Museum. An archaeological museum exhibiting artifacts from the Acropolis, it opened in 2009. It is a beautiful and modern building that, most interestingly, has been built over a sizable archaeological site. Many parts of the museum are made of glass – including many sections of the floor – enabling visitors a view of the excavations below the building. Full of intriguing exhibits, it’s easy to lose many hours in there.

Where to Stay, Eat, and Be in Athens

Like any city in the world, Athens offers a multitude of lodging options in all areas of the city and at all price points. For me when it comes down to where to stay in a city, I’m all about location.  In Athens, my neighborhood of choice is always Plaka, or the old town neighborhood. I love the neighborhood’s vibrant streets with their shops, restaurants, and people. Plaka is very walk-able to everything we want to see and do, and also accessible to public transportation.

A street in Plaka outside our hostel.

The one place in Plaka we seem to continually gravitate to is the steps on Mnisikleous Street, otherwise know as the “Restaurant Steps.” It’s full from top to bottom of charming cafes and restaurants which serve until the wee hours. There is no better place in Athens to rest your feet while sipping a coffee, beer, or wine in the afternoon, and it’s an even better place to return to for dinner in the evening. We’ve eaten at several restaurants along the street, and have enjoyed some delightful meals…but the main draw is the ambiance.

You may find better restaurants in other parts of the city, but you will find no better place to delight in your surroundings.
Resting our feet at a cafe on the steps during a long day of walking – always my favorite time of the day! This cafe is a gem and evidently I’m not the only one who thinks so!
Our table view from a restaurant on the Mnisikleous Street steps.

I have mentioned before that where we choose to stay in a city is all about location for us. To facilitate that, we are willing to sacrifice any sort of opulence for a basic, clean, and comfortable room. To us, we’d rather save our funds for the experiences a city offers. I want to eat well and drink well while I travel. I can sleep well just about anywhere as long as it is clean. After all, if we are doing a city up “right,” we shouldn’t be in our room all that much anyway!

To that end, in Plaka we stay at the Students and Travellers Inn. It’s an economical choice that meets our needs well, and is steps away from everywhere we want to be. The staff is friendly and extremely helpful in navigating the neighborhood and city. We have always booked a private room for our stay rather than stay in one of the dorms. I figure there is no reason to subject fellow travelers to Todd’s snoring…or mine. I do prefer to book rooms with a private bath as well.  But during our last stay, a shared bath was our only option. We survived. The only down side I’ve encountered at the hostel is the laundry service.  The turnaround was very quick, but not much care had been taken to fold the clothes. As we were packing them in our backpacks, it really wasn’t much of an issue – just something to temper expectations.

The impact of Ancient Greece on the modern world cannot be underestimated. To be able to spend time in the cradle of civilization was both exhilarating and exciting, and being able to see the sites outlined in the series of mystery novels we read heightened our knowledge and appreciation for the contributions made by the early Greeks.  Even better, whether you want to spend time in a museum musing over classical art, the rich history or the region, and see ongoing excavation sites, or if you prefer to wile away the hours in a street-side cafe people watching and sampling Mediterranean fare, modern-day Athens has something for everyone to enjoy.

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The Real Travel Influencers: Books and Movies, of course

While driving home to South Carolina from the Atlanta airport last week, I passed on an opportunity that has me kicking myself this week. Before leaving the terminal building, I carefully plugged “home” into my GPS and set out.  However, while exiting the airport I found myself in the wrong lane with no prospect for getting myself over to the correct one before it was too late. Immediately, my GPS re-routed me adjusting my estimated travel time from 4 hours to 4 1/2 hours. I thought about taking an exit to turn myself around in an effort  to get back to the airport and the original route. But, I decided 30 extra minutes was not going to make too huge of a dent in my day, so I settled in for the drive home.

Somewhere along I-20 heading towards Augusta, Georgia, I stopped for lunch – at Chick-fil-A, of course. (When in the South and when in Georgia in particular, right?) Once I got back on the road, my GPS changed its mind and decided that, indeed, I needed to head home via I-16 after all. It immediately took me off the interstate and began sending me south along some of Georgia’s back highways to I-16. The scenery was magnificent – all lush and green forests and fields. I was thoroughly enjoying my decision to just give myself over to the GPS’ whims until it directed me to make the sixth turn onto a different road. By this time, I was off state highways and driving along county roads. While I was driving on paved roads, they were roads with no markings painted on them.

I was starting to think about how far I was getting out in the “back woods” of Georgia on the route. Just about the time I was marveling that my phone was still streaming music in the middle of what felt like “No Where, Georgia,” Pandora lost its signal. As the GPS signal lost its map data, I began to wonder if we still carried a road atlas tucked back with the spare tire. I was probably not much more than an hour or so outside of the metro Atlanta area, but I had no idea where I was or where I was supposed to be going. I came to an intersection, and saw a sign wanting me to turn left for the “Original Whistle Stop Cafe.” The GPS wanted me to continue straight, so I paused for a moment to consider my options.

Much of the traveling Todd and I do tends to be influenced by books and movies. The list of places in the world I still want to see is heavily shaped by both books I read and films I saw decades ago, as well as more recent offerings. You can find many articles and blogs listing the “best movies and books to inspire travel,” and I’m not sure I know the “best” options, but I do know what has inspired my wanderlust over the years. My list is always a “working” list, and it is long. But here are a few of our favorite places we have been, and a few places where we intend to go, that have been inspired by books and movies:

Death on the Nile (1978)

Death on the Nile is one the first movies I remember seeing that made me want to see the story’s setting for myself. It’s an adaptation of one of Agatha Christie’s Hercule Poirot novels. The plot involves the murder of a young newlywed heiress who is sailing with her new husband on a luxurious cruise down the Nile River. Naturally, all the passengers on board have a motive for the murder and Poirot must find the killer before the boat arrives at its destination.

Early in the movie, the heiress and her new husband tour sites in Egypt including the Great Pyramids, the Sphinx, and the temples at Abu Simbel and Karnak, and I remember being mesmerized by the images on the screen as a young girl. I immediately wanted to travel to Egypt and see these wonders for myself, and I still do. In recent years, Egypt has been rife with political upheaval, demonstrations, and terrorist activity. Naturally, Egypt’s once popular tourism industry has taken a severe hit as a result. Lately I’m beginning to read articles about travelers slowly returning to the country, but travel warnings continue to caution against certain areas in Egypt, including the Sinai Peninsula and the Western Desert. We will get there one day – maybe just not right now.

Under the Tuscan Sun (2003)

Seriously, who doesn’t want to impulsively purchase a villa in Tuscany and painstakingly restore it? The entire plot of Under the Tuscan Sun is straight-up, middle-aged woman porn, and Diane Lane embodies the fantasy for all of us so well on the screen.

Tuscany is lavishly splashed across the screen all through the movie, and it is stunningly beautiful. But to me, the scene stealer in the movie is the Amalfi Coast. Once Frances visited Positano with Marcello, I knew where I was going. When Todd and I finally got there a couple of years ago, it absolutely lived up to my expectations. The Amalfi Coast is quite possibly one of the loveliest places we have ever visited.

A Walk in the Woods:  Rediscovering America on the Appalachian Trail (1998)

I loved this book, and have wanted to hike the Appalachian Trail ever since I first read it. I love Bill Bryson’s sense of humor. He is a delight to read. I do have to say that I skipped over the movie that was released a few years ago based on A Walk in the Woods. It garnered mediocre reviews, and I had enjoyed the story so much that I didn’t want the movie to tarnish my memories of the book nor my ambition to hike along the trail one day.

Same Time, Next Year (1978)

Same Time, Next Year is a movie I’ve seen more times than I can count. If you can overlook the fact that the couple the story-line has you rooting for is actually engaged in an extra-marital affair, it’s a delightful comedy/drama film. Originally a Tony Award winning play, most of the movie’s scenes are staged as interiors. When the story finally moves the action outside, however, it is a spectacular view. The view took my breath away the first time I saw it, and it never left me.

The movie’s exteriors were filmed at Heritage House Inn  in Little River, California which lies on the coast in Mendocino County. Today the inn is operating and actually features a “Same Time, Next Year” cottage available for booking. Todd and I stopped for a lovely breakfast and look around the grounds while on a trip along the Pacific Coast Highway. The views did not disappoint even all those many years later.

Game of Thrones (2011-2019)

Although a television show rather than a movie, Game of Thrones delivers locations worth visiting and experiencing first hand like nothing else on the small screen. With filming locations that include Ireland, Canada, Croatia,  Iceland, Malta, Morocco, and Spain, visiting all the worthy locations featured on the show could be a full-time job. In fact an entire cottage industry of bloggers who are on the GoT trail has popped up everywhere. I’ve long wanted to travel to Croatia, and watching GoT has only served to heighten that desire in me. I look forward to when we finally get there one day soon. Who wouldn’t want to go to King’s Landing?

The Mystery of Mont Saint-Michel by Michel Rouzé (1955)

For as long as I can remember, my mom, a teacher, would tell us about Mont Saint-Michel. She’d learned about it from a children’s book she read with her second grade students. As I remember, she never really shared the book’s narrative with us so much, as she would just tell us about the power of the island’s tides. With a bit of research, I think I’ve narrowed down the book in question to The Mystery of Mont Saint-Michel. My parents rarely traveled, but my mom always talked about wanting to see Mont Saint-Michel, and we finally made the journey to the coast of France with my parents when they came to visit our family while we were living in Europe.

Mont Saint-Michel is our favorite place in the world. I’m sure that has something to do with my mom and the happy memory of a near perfect day that we all shared there together, and also because of the island’s beauty that is absolute. From the castle to the picturesque French countryside that surrounds the island, the views are so striking that they stay with you long after you leave.

Fried Green Tomatoes (1991)

The Whistle Stop Cafe in Juliette, GA

As I came to that intersection in rural Georgia and saw the sign wanting me to turn left for the “Original Whistle Stop Cafe,” I didn’t know where I was exactly, and had just happened upon the area quite by accident. I thought about how many times I’ve seen Fried Green Tomatoes over the years, and how much I also enjoyed the book on which the movie is based. It’s not the kind of movie that has a stunning backdrop that draws you in. But rather, I have a comfortable familiarity with the setting having seen the images on the screen so many, many times, and the cafe plays a major role in the movie’s story.

Reading up on Juliette, Georgia and the cafe later, I discovered that the original The Whistle Stop Cafe building was a general store that opened in 1927 and served the community until 1972. The building was rented out for many years afterwards and housed various businesses. When Hollywood came knocking, it was home to an antique shop. After the filming concluded, the owner along with a partner, decided to open up The Original Whistle Stop Cafe in the building.

I should have stopped in and I can’t believe I didn’t! But instead, I continued driving home figuring I was already 30 minutes behind my time. If I find myself in that neck of the woods again, I won’t be passing it by. In fact, now that I know it’s there, I’m probably going to have to make a special trip one of these days. After all, they probably have really good pie.

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A Charleston Weekend- Eat, Stay, and the High Water Festival

A few years ago I was driving cross-country to drop my youngest off at college when I first heard Hozier’s song, “Take Me to Church.” Hozier, a musician who hails from Ireland, and his debut song, that has a distinctly bluesy feel, hooked me straightaway. After setting up my daughter in her dorm, I drove home and immediately set up a “Hozier” station on Pandora.

Around my house – whether I’m working, relaxing, cooking, etc. – I tend to always have some background noise. (Hmm…I suppose I don’t like to be left alone with my own thoughts for very long, and prefer the distraction?)  Sometimes it is a television tuned to some movie or show that I’ve seen so many times that I don’t have to pay attention to it, or more often, it is music. After dropping off my daughter at college, I spent a good deal of time playing my new Hozier station in my newly empty-nest.

If I had to apply a label to my musical tastes for most of my adult life, I’d have defined myself as a classic rock aficionado. Although, I’ve certainly spent a good many years driving teenagers around, listening to whatever music kept them happy in the car. As a result, I’m fairly well versed in music from bands like Disturbed and Linkin Park, and I’m quite a fan of Staind. I know the lyrics to far TOO MANY Taylor Swift songs, and both Kesha’s “Tik Tok“ and “Self Esteem“ by The Offspring will be on my funeral soundtrack. However, many of the artists that Pandora was curating for me on my new Hozier station really resonated with me in a new and exciting way.

As I listened to Pandora and a song would catch my ear, I’d glance up to see who the artist was. When I found myself glancing up during several different songs by the same artist or band, I figured I must like their music and would begin to do some research on them – their tour schedule, albums, etc. Before long, Todd and I found ourselves becoming big fans of many of these artists – The Head and The Heart, City and Colour, Iron and Wine, The Avett Brothers, Margo and the Nuclear So and So’s, The Civil Wars, Mandolin Orange, Gregory Alan Isakov, along with many others and Hozier, of course. We also started attending concerts every chance we got with our new empty-nester free time, and were fortunate to see many of these artists perform live. Todd and I may have arrived late to the indie music party, but now that we are here, we are developing into bona-fide groupies. This led us to jump at the chance to attend the High Water Festival and enjoy a wonderful weekend of food and music in Charleston, South Carolina recently.

Charleston, always a popular destination, has become a much deserved hot-hot destination in the last several years. Located roughly at the mid-point on South Carolina’s coast line, Charleston is rich in history, and its historic districts and cobblestone streets can’t help but draw you in. From harbor views, to beautifully preserved architecture, and outstanding restaurants, you can’t go wrong with a visit to this lovely and extremely friendly city. Our time in Charleston was limited and specifically structured around the High Water Festival, but for more information about things to do and planning a stay in Charleston see here.

Our Charleston Lodging – NotSo Hostel

Lodging in Charleston, especially in the popular downtown area, can be very expensive. Knowing we would be spending most of our time in Charleston at the festival, we chose to stick with more modest accommodations. The NotSo Hostel fit the bill for us perfectly. Located in a vibrant downtown neighborhood, it is very walk-able to restaurants, businesses, and shops that boast a very local flair, and is convenient to many of the more well-traveled areas of the city.

The NotSo Hostel hosts two locations in the Cannonborough/Elliotborough neighborhood in downtown – a main location on Spring Street and the annex location on Cannon Street. We reserved a room at the Annex. The Annex has only private rooms with a shared kitchen and bathrooms along with a common sitting area. The main location boasts suites, private rooms, and dorm room spaces in addition to the shared kitchen and common space. With fewer rooms in the Annex, it tends to be a quieter stay.

Hotels in the Charleston area easily command $250 a night or more in weekend rates. In comparison, the NotSo Hostel rates are much easier on the wallet. Dorms run $32 a night on weekends, while private rooms at each location will cost $78 – $85. A Suite with private bath will set you back roughly $100. Parking – often hard to come by in downtown Charleston – is included.

Our presence at the NotSo Hostel Annex certainly raised the average age of weekend hostel guests, but none the less, our stay was very enjoyable. The rooms were clean and decorated well with all the necessary comforts. The check-in process was extremely easy and streamlined. Our credit card was charged two days before our stay, and a code to unlock the front door was emailed to us one day prior enabling us to head directly to the Annex for a 2 PM check-in, and begin our weekend fun.

One thing I most appreciated about the NotSo Hostel was my introduction to sleeping with ear plugs. The hostel is located in a buzzing part of downtown, and naturally some street noise does drift up to the rooms. A bowl of ear plugs is provided in each of the guest rooms, so on a whim I decided to give them a try. I’ve been sleeping with earplugs almost every night since – game changer.

*For more information about NotSo Hostel see here.

Our Charleston Eats

Prohibition – King Street

Within easy walking distance of the NotSo Hostel Annex, we arrived at Prohibition on Saturday afternoon just in time to make the tail end of the brunch service. We were glad we did. The atmosphere is outstanding, and we began our meal with a cocktail – I wholeheartedly recommend the raspberry peach belini! We enjoyed our meals ordering:  Shrimp and Grits; Corned Beef Hash; and Chicken & Biscuits along with their Grass-Fed Angus Burger.  Delicious food and superb service! I will head back to Prohibition to enjoy their bar and dinner menu soon, but it’s a good choice for any time of day!

*For more information about Prohibition see here.

Hominy Grill – Rutledge Street

Todd and I have been to Hominy Grill before and were highly anticipating another leisurely Sunday morning breakfast.

Be prepared to wait for a table! I don’t often like to wait for seating. I’m usually too hungry for much delaying. However, I will always wait for as long as it takes to eat at Hominy Grill.

We arrived on Sunday morning around eleven and the wait was 1 hour.  (Interestingly, many of the restaurant patrons were wearing High Water wrist bands along with us!) There is very little seating available in the waiting area, so the crowd spills out into the street in front of the building. They do have a bar window where you can purchase drinks to enjoy while you wait for your table. However, be prepared to stand in line for the bar service as well.

I honestly think you can order anything off the Hominy Grill menu, and you will leave happy. However, on the menu pay special attention to the Charleston Nasty Biscuit – with a fried chicken breast, sausage gravy, and cheese. You also cannot go wrong with the Slow Smoked Pork Belly Grit Bowl with farm egg & cheddar cheese. And finally whatever you do, never pass on the She Crab Soup – YUM!

*For more information about Hominy Grill see here.

High Water Festival

The High Water Festival’s inaugural year was 2017, and it’s success has so far propelled it into at least 2019. Billed as “A Celebration of Music, Food, and Libations,” the festival truly celebrates the spirit of Charleston offering a little bit for everyone. The music is naturally showcased, but through the Low Tide Social, the festival’s kick-off party, and Pass the Peas, a brunch showcasing local chefs and their favorite dishes, the best of Southern Cuisine is placed center-stage as well. Rounding out the low country festival experiences are opportunities to attend oyster education classes to learn everything you may want to know about this regional favorite.

Naturally what mainly drew Todd and I to the festival was the lineup of music artists. Curated by Shovels & Rope, a folk duo who hail from Charleston, the 2018 lineup was not to be missed:  Jason Isbell and The 400 Unit, Brandi Carlile, St. Paul and the Broken Bones, Jeff Tweedy, Shakey Graves, Band of Horses, and of course, Shovels and Rope among many, many others. The music was fantastic. Throughout the weekend we enjoyed both the artists we already love and have previously seen perform live, and we were exposed to many artists who were new to us. We loved all of it!

Staged at Riverfront Park in North Charleston, the Festival was very well run:  The stands selling food and libations were plentiful. The grounds provided adequate space for the crowd, and they remained free of trash and debris the entire weekend. Parking was convenient, and traffic flowed well during both arrival and departure times each day. As luck would have it for us, both days of  High Water 2018 boasted perfect festival weather – which always helps.

As most music festivals go, ticket prices for High Water are steep. They offer an early bird tiered rate for tickets depending on the date of purchase.  An even steeper VIP ticket with special perks is offered each year as well. (The VIP area had upgraded portable toilets… might just be worth it?) Particularly admirable is a community volunteer program the festival employs for folks who don’t have the available funds to purchase a ticket. Volunteer opportunities in the Charleston area are offered to those who sign up for the limited number of slots. Upon completion of the community service, a High Water ticket is earned. A great program!

*To keep tabs on upcoming information for the 2019 High Water Festival see here.

Between our very pleasant stay at the NotSo Hostel, some top-notch restaurant choices, and the 2018 High Water Festival, Todd and I enjoyed a perfect Charleston weekend. We’ll be back again next year, and are eagerly awaiting the release of the 2019 artist lineup next fall. Come April 13-14, 2019, you will know where to find us! …and maybe with access to the upgraded toilets?

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Yosemite is as Spectacular as You Think!

California has never been much of a draw for me. Or maybe I should say, Southern California has never held much appeal.  I have traveled to the Los Angeles area a few times in my life, and always left wondering what the allure was about.  Sure the weather is pleasant enough, but the traffic, the desert landscape, the lack of public transit, and the lack of architectural character leave a lot to be desired.  While I have visited some lovely art galleries and flea markets in LA, and I could certainly get behind a tour of the stars’ homes, it mostly feels like a manufactured city.  Portrayals of Southern California in the media leave the impression that it is full of superficial people, or those who are full of broken dreams.

When I tell someone that I grew up in Illinois,  the immediate assumption is that I’m from Chicago.  But I hail from the cornfields in central Illinois, which are a world away from Chicago.  It took me some time before I realized that I was making this same assumption about California.  California is not just Southern California and LA.  Once we finally took the time to explore what the rest of the state has to offer – the central farmlands, the coast, and of course, the Bay Area – we were hooked.

A favored stop for us during our California road trip was Yosemite, and it is hard to find the words to explain how stunning the sight of Yosemite Valley truly is if you haven’t had the opportunity to see it for yourself.  All the pictures I’ve ever seen in books, on-line, or on television, truly don’t do it justice.  When you stand there and look across the valley, the grandeur and beauty of the natural wonders are genuinely awe-inspiring.

The view from Glacier Point – stunning!

President Abraham Lincoln signed the Yosemite Grant in 1864 which, first and foremost, protected the Yosemite Valley from development.  In later years, naturalist John Muir lobbied to include the surrounding mountains and forests within the protected zone making Yosemite the precedent for the U.S. National Park system.  Today Yosemite National Park is roughly the size of Rhode Island and averages more than 4 million visitors each year.

Todd and my travels brought us to Yosemite in late April, so the weather was pleasant during our stay and the crowds were manageable.  As a majority of park visitors do, we spent most of our time in Yosemite Valley, an area of about 6 square miles.  During winter and spring, roads in the upper elevations of the park are closed due to snow and ice cover, and we happened to visit during the three-year restoration project that has closed Mariposa Grove, a sequoia grove located near Wawona, California in the southern area of the park.  The restoration project is scheduled to be complete in June of 2018.

Our “Tunnel View” pic – a Yosemite Park view made famous by Ansel Adams.  El Capitan, Half Dome and Bridalveil Falls in the background.

During our stay in Yosemite, Todd and I stayed in Camp 4 which is a “walk-in” campground where spots are first-come, first-served and cost $6 per person, per night.  A parking lot is located adjacent to the campground and all equipment must be carried into the camp sites.  The campground is fairly primitive and not much to look at, although there are bathrooms with running water and flush toilets.  Recognized for the importance it played as the center of the development of the sport of rock climbing in the years following World War II, Camp 4 was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2003.  The campground continues to draw many rock climbers who use it as their home-base while climbing in the park, and many of our fellow campers could be found bouldering in the immediate areas near Camp 4 at all times of the day.

Breakfast time in Camp 4

Camp 4 has thirty-five shared tent-only sites each accommodating up to six campers.    Four bear-proof food lockers are provided at each site along with a fire ring and two picnic tables.  Todd and I arrived in the late afternoon, and although the camp was fairly full, we found an open spot easily enough.  Since it was off-season, we self-registered that evening, then had to register for the remainder of our stay with the park ranger who came on-duty the next morning at 8:30 a.m.  During high season and especially over holidays, it is important to arrive very early in the day to secure a campsite in Camp 4.

What I loved most about Camp 4 is the communal style camping.  Todd and I shared our camp site with two young couples.  Both couples were several months into extended travel adventures.  The first couple had just finished working the ski season in Vail, Colorado and were on their way to Alaska to work the summer season with a tour company.  The second couple was young professionals who had quit their jobs to take some time to see the world.  They had recently accepted jobs working the forest fire season in Oregon to earn more money to continue their travels.  They were slowly working their way up to Oregon in the coming weeks with several more National Park stops along the way.  I thoroughly enjoyed our few evenings spent with these young friends around the campfire talking into the wee hours and drinking wine.  Both of them happened to have recently traveled to Thailand.  We enjoyed hearing stories from their trips, and we shared with them about our time spent in Europe just a few weeks before.

One thing that struck me on our first evening with our young friends was a discussion about firewood.  Park regulations forbid picking up firewood in the park forests.  They also forbid bringing in firewood from other places – there is a danger of insect infestation and disease.  Firewood must be purchased locally.  Both young couples mentioned that while they had been out shopping for supplies, they had passed over firewood because of the expense.  In the store, Todd and I gasped at the purchase price, shrugged, and bought the firewood.  Who wants to camp without a fire – right?  It made me think though:  I truly admire the adventurous spirits of both these young couples.  While Todd and I have been indulging in a bit a wanderlust these last few years, and intend to do so for the foreseeable future, we are doing so after decades of professional life and from a place of more financial security.  Todd and I had kids very young, and for us, quitting a job to see the world was not an option when we were in our twenties.  But otherwise, I wonder, would we ever have considered taking such a leap of faith in our youth?  Would we have wanted to?  Is there one stage of life when travel is more fulfilling than at other stages?  Hmmm… What I do know is that at this place in our life we’ve adopted a budget traveler style, but we can also afford the firewood when we want it…. and I appreciate that in our travels.

One of our favorite days at Yosemite was spent hiking the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail.  A historic trail in the park, it was built between 1873 and 1877, and climbs to the top of Yosemite Falls, the tallest waterfall in North America.  It’s not an easy climb and I have since read that not only is the trail long – over 7 1/2 miles round trip – it’s the equivalent of climbing a little more than TWO Empire State Buildings.  Todd and I were fortunate to be at the park in spring when the falls are full from the runoff of the melting winter snows.  By late summer, the falls can dry up completely, however.

Yosemite Falls with spring waters roaring!

While on the trail, I appreciated and reflected on the amount of work it must have taken crews – given the tools and technology in the late 1800’s – to carve out such a trail.  Several areas had stair-steps carved into the granite, and I thought about what it would have been like to be a tourist on this trail so many years ago when it was new.  Certainly Todd and I would have hired men to carry our supplies for us.  Our trip to enjoy Yosemite would have likely included an entire traveling party instead of just the two of us, and our picnic lunch at the top of the falls would have been a much more elaborate affair.  The other ladies and I would have been climbing in our period dresses with our sturdy boots, and carpets would have been brought up with us to lay out on the ground before we sat down to enjoy our meal – an ordeal indeed!  (To see images of early tourists at Yosemite click here. )

All trails in Yosemite Valley can be crowded, and while we had plenty of fellow hikers along with us to the top of the falls, it really didn’t diminish the experience.  I enjoyed the sense of community along the trail as we hiked.  Because of how strenuous the hike is, there was a good deal of both mutual grumbling and mutual encouragement expressed by everyone along the route.  My legs were burning on the climb up and my knees were sore on the way down.  But as we descended, I appreciated a certain sense of accomplishment as I was finally able to be the one who could tell the tired and doubting climbers that it would indeed be worth the effort once they reached the top – the VIEW!

Yosemite is truly a one of a kind gem in the U.S. National Park system.   It took Todd and I a long time to give California a chance.  But with the grandeur and stunning natural wonder of Yosemite waiting for you…get out there SOONER rather than later.

(For complete information about Yosemite National Park click here.)

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Couchsurfing- It Takes a Dose of Trust

When Todd and I share with our contemporaries how from time to time we host complete strangers in our home for overnight stays – free of charge – via Couchsurfing, we usually get a blank, disbelieving stare.  While the Couchsurfing platform connects more than 14 million people world-wide, the average age of a Couchsurfer is about twenty-eight.  When we share our experiences with them, our peers are usually hearing about Couchsurfing for the first time.  The blank stare from our 50-something year old friends is usually followed by them asking us, “How do you know they are not going to kill you in the middle of the night?”  I have to admit to them that I guess I really don’t know for sure. But in our experience, with careful consideration of who we accept for a stay, we have found participating in the Couchsurfing community to be a completely enriching experience.  (Click here for more information about Couchsurfing.)

While listening to a podcast the other day, I heard a fascinating interview from a few years ago with Rachel Botsman, who along with Roo Rogers is the author of What’s Mine is Yours:  The Rise of Collaborative Consumption.  She built a very compelling argument for the unmistakable and growing importance of the sharing economy and responsible consumption that has been fueled by the technology/communication revolution and has exploded globally:  think car-sharing platforms like Uber or Zipcar; peer-to-peer lending sites like Lending Club; fashion platforms like Rent the Runway; sites like Neighborgoods that provide a platform to borrow tools and kitchen appliances from your neighbors; and of course, home-stay sites like Airbnb and Couchsurfing.

Certainly the explosion of these collaborative sharing sites is driven by the advent of big data that connects service providers with consumers via individual platforms.  But the point Ms. Botsman makes, quite eloquently, is how the technology and the sharing economy itself actually operates on what she calls “a currency of trust” as well as, “reputation” which she defines as, “the measurement of how much a community trusts you.”  She even expands her idea to include what she calls “reputation capital” which she predicts will one day be even more important than an individual’s credit score as currency. As I listened to Ms. Botsman’s interview, her words completely validated our personal experiences with Couchsurfing and other sharing platforms.  Her book and corresponding remarks about the importance of the sharing economy are a few years old, but they resonate now more than ever as the market for such services has only increased in popularity.  (For a deeper dive on these ideas see her TED Talk here.)

Couchsurfing is a worldwide community that connects people who are willing to share their homes, or at least their time, with travelers who need a place to stay, or who are interested in meeting and spending time with locals during their journey.  Hosts are not allowed to charge fees for lodging.  Todd and I joined the platform about three years ago while living in Washington, DC.  At the time, we were planning a lengthy trip to Europe in the coming months, and I was researching budget lodging options when I came across a reference to Couchsurfing.  I immediately loved the concept and signed us up.  Todd…well, he eventually suspended his disbelief, and based on our experiences has become an enthusiastic advocate.

Much like Airbnb and other home-stay platforms, Couchsurfing revolves around members setting up an online profile using biographical information, personal pictures, and by sharing their interests.  Through a process of verification and written comments about their experiences with others, members expand their profile and develop their reputation.

When we originally signed up for Couchsurfing, my intention was to use the platform as an occasional lodging option while we traveled in Europe.  We immediately began hosting travelers in our DC apartment to grow our profile and reputation within the community.  You know – we wanted a profile that looked to others like we were NOT the kind of folks who would kill them in the middle of the night.  As it turned out, while we have hosted and met many travelers over the years, we have never ‘surfed ourselves.  The trip we took to Europe followed no set schedule.  We knew where we wanted to go and what we wanted to see, but followed no particular timeline.  We would often decide on the fly that we were ready to move on to another place with only a day or so notice to arrange transportation and lodging.  I hesitated to send Couchsurfing requests on such short notice.  I’ve never accepted last-minute requests, and don’t really know if I’d necessarily want to stay with those folks who would be willing to accept mine.  I wouldn’t want them to skip washing the sheets before I arrived because they didn’t have time – right?

Our first Couchsurfers were three college kids from the Czech Republic.  They had spent their summer working as servers at resorts in Michigan and Rhode Island, and were traveling around the U.S. before returning home.  They spent one night with us in DC and were wonderfully engaging kids to talk to.  I was surprised at how little money they had managed to make over the summer.  By the time they had paid the company that arranged placement for them, repaid their travel costs to the placement company, paid for their visas, and paid for their room and board while working, there was really very little left in their pockets.  It didn’t seem to diminish their enthusiasm for their adventure, however.

As I took them around DC on a one-day sightseeing whirlwind, I genuinely enjoyed learning about them and their lives at home.  One of them had just graduated from university with a degree in statistics.  I remember asking him what his plans were – was he excited to get a job and get out there and start “adulting” once he got home?  I’ll never forget his reply because he explained to me – very matter of factly – how he had no real options for finding a job in the Czech Republic.  The girls chimed in to add that having a college degree really didn’t matter, because there were no real job prospects at home.  The two girls were still in college, but all three of them clearly did not see their degree as a means to an end.  They were just marking time in university until university was over.  Maybe, they mentioned, if they could find a way to get a job in Germany they would have a future.  What struck me during this conversation was how these three young people weren’t upset or frustrated about their economic straits or necessarily striving for any change.  It just was what it was.

Another ‘surfer we hosted that I will never forget was a strange little man from Florida.  He’d spent the summer hiking in upstate New York and was making his way home via a stop in DC.  I have the good fortune to work from home, which makes me more comfortable as a Couchsurfing host.  I don’t have to leave my house with strangers in it while I’m away at work all day.  The problem with this visit was that this man never left my house either.  We had two full days of POURING rain.  He had been to DC on several occasions, and there was obviously nothing he necessarily wanted to see again that was worth going out in the weather.  So there he and I were…all day….together….in my little apartment.  He was quite a talker except when it came to what he did for a living.  He had “retired” in his late 30’s and had “gotten by” since then.  We watched a lot of news programs together.  Even though I had control of the TV remote, I had a hard time owning some of my normal rainy day viewing habits for this stranger to judge me by.  He didn’t need to know that I can easily lose several hours to a Law & Order SVU marathon.

Finally, on the second afternoon, I handed him the weekly neighborhood newspaper that listed nearby events:  lectures at American University and other spots around the city, special events and tours at the National Cathedral, author talks and book signings at local bookstores, gallery events, etc.  Luckily he found something that piqued his interest:  The National Heritage Fellowships which are lifetime honors presented to master folk and traditional artists by the National Endowment for the Arts.  The program was being held that evening at GWU and the tickets were free.  He insisted we ALL go to the program, and while I tried my best to beg off, he was having none of it.  So I called Todd at work and explained to him how we would be going out in the rain to see a world-renowned oud player when he got home that evening.

The oud is a pear shaped string instrument – much like a lute.  It is popular in Middle Eastern countries, and has been around for more than 5,000 years.  The oud player who was honored that evening, Rahim AlHaj, is originally from Iraq.  I found myself mesmerized by his playing of an instrument that until that afternoon I had never heard of.  It was beautiful.  But more than that, his story was captivating.  As an accomplished artist and musician, he’d been persecuted in Iraq for his political activism.  Arrested more than once, he spent time in prison being tortured by Saddam Hussein’s regime.  He told the story of always crossing his arms and tucking his hands under his arms during torture to keep his tormentors from breaking his hands or fingers during the sessions.  He eventually made his way to the U.S. as a political refuge and became a citizen.  Rahim worked as a dishwasher and security guard before being able to re-establish himself as a world-class musician.

The entire evening was filled with engaging artists, their stories, and performances or examples of their work, such as a ladies quilting bee from Alabama, several singers, a Slovakian straw artist, a Japanese classical dancer, and many more.  Now looking back on it – Todd and I always recall this particular night as one of our favorite evenings we spent during our time living in DC.  This program was something that would have otherwise stayed completely off our radar if our Couchsurfer friend from Florida hadn’t been so insistent we all attend.  We would have missed something very special.  (Find the complete list of artists honored here.)

We once hosted a deaf couple from California who came to visit their daughter to surprise her on her eighteenth birthday.  The husband read lips fairly well, but the wife and I communicated via messages on a notepad or through texting at each other while standing in the same room.  They were a very sweet couple who brought their own instant oatmeal packets along with them for breakfast each day.  I generally share any meals we are having with our Couchsurfers.  But instead, each morning, they would make their way to the kitchen to eat their oatmeal, then very carefully clean up their dishes before making their way to their daughter’s school to spend the day with her.  Unlike the strange little man from Florida, they left the apartment all day only coming home in the evening after dinner.  Delightful guests!

Above all others, our favorite Couchsurfing guest was from Iran.  He was a delightful, engaging, and extremely articulate young man who we immensely enjoyed getting to know.  I found it fascinating to talk to him about his experiences.  When traveling as an American there are times when you might just hope to keep your head down and be mistaken for a Canadian.  But, I had never taken the time to think about what it must be like to travel the world with an Iranian passport.  We loved his stories:  the hoops he had to jump through and the endless bureaucracy he navigated to get visas, and how – regardless of how much preparation he may do – he might still be turned away at a border and denied entrance to a country. How Iranians, barred from the international banking system, traveled the world without a credit card for things like car rentals, hotel and airline reservations, etc. and, of course, we enjoyed hearing about his family and his life growing up in Iran before leaving the country to study abroad.   We discussed politics in Iran and the U.S., current events, international relations, pop culture, movies, and what a crazy idea it was that Donald Trump would ever become president.   (I’d very much like to revisit that topic with him now!) We enjoyed several meals that he cooked for us over the course of his stay, and were very sad to see his visit come to an end.  Thanks to social media and email we are still able to check in with him from time to time, and I hope to meet him again one day.

I can honestly say we have only had positive experiences with Couchsurfers in our home, but there are some things to keep in mind before jumping into Couchsurfing:

  • Personal Safety:  Like any relationship, you should not stay in a situation where you don’t feel comfortable and safe.  There have been reports of robberies and even assaults although they are an extremely small percentage of all Couchsurfing connections.  But if you meet someone and it feels off, get out of the situation.  I personally would probably not ‘surf as a solo traveler nor host anyone in my home alone.  There is always more safety in numbers.  I would also think twice before hosting with small children in my house.  Sometimes we are too quick to think we know someone well because we know them digitally.  Read profiles very carefully and even read between the lines if necessary.
  •  Home Safety:  The sharing economy necessitates a mutual trust in each other and an expectation of good behavior by each individual.  But take the time to carefully think about what a stranger coming into your house could mean.  When we got ready for our first ‘surfers to arrive, it occurred to me that the room where they would be sleeping had a closet with shelving that served as our “medicine cabinet.” I quickly removed all the prescription medicines – leftover oxycodone, etc.   Todd usually keeps his wallet in a bowl in the kitchen, but brings it into our bedroom when folks are ‘surfing.  Likewise I don’t leave pieces of jewelry out on my dresser, and I’m also conscious of what I do with my purse around the house.  We’ve certainly never had any type of incident, but it’s better to consider the possibilities and be safe rather than sorry.

Couchsurfing has been an incredibly enriching experience for Todd and me.  With some careful consideration, the connections you can make and experiences you share by ‘surfing or opening your home to Couchsurfers can last a lifetime.  It can be an extraordinary way to explore new cultures and enjoy the world in a completely different way – without even leaving your house sometimes. For Todd and I, the Couchsurfing slogan completely rings true:  “You have friends all over the world, you just haven’t met them yet.” 

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Santorini- A Beautiful Corner of the World: Part II

Before retiring from the military, we moved our family 17 times in 27 years, and a common question we hear from folks is, “Where did you like living the most?” For me, answering that question has always been difficult.  I can’t say I disliked living anywhere we were stationed, but I liked our many different homes for many different reasons.  Sometimes it was actually the physical house we lived in that was a joy, and sometimes it was the experience of the location itself, or the people around us.  Some of our homes were located near exciting things to see and do (New York); while others were more remote, but were places filled with people who we dearly loved and who became life-long friends (Kentucky).  Some places we lived were visually stunning (Colorado), and others didn’t visually offer us quite so much (Texas).  Some places even expanded our family’s horizons and exposed us to other cultures (Germany).  But each place we lived has offered us precious takeaways, be it from the location, our experiences there, our personal connections made, or in some combination.

I feel the same way about our travels.  Sometimes the absolute and stunning beauty of a place leaves its mark on you; or sometimes the memory of experiences you shared there resonates most; and often times it is the personal connections made along the way that are your most precious takeaways.  It is hard for me to say exactly what place we’ve traveled to in the world is my favorite, but for Todd and me, Santorini is one of those places that comes pretty close.  The beauty of Santorini can certainly take your breath away, but I think what makes it one of our favorite destinations is the memories from a particular, crisp spring day we spent exploring the island.

Our favorite day in Santorini was a slow and easygoing Sunday that has since turned into one of those perfect travel memories.  Like any travel partners, Todd and I can get snippy with each other after days and weeks of being in close quarters.  It’s only natural.  Sometimes we might spend a few hours doing our own thing, and, often times, a shared bottle of wine over lunch can nip our irritation with each other in the bud, and give the rest of the afternoon’s activities a rosier glow.  (On the whole, moderate day drinking seems to make us more affable travelers!)  But sometimes,  the general mood of the day just seems to click –  shared jokes are funnier; sights and sounds resonate more meaningfully; smells and tastes are more palatable; and each interaction and experience is just right.  That’s the kind of day this certain Sunday was.

I wish I could qualify exactly what it was that made that particular day and Santorini such a special memory for us.  But our time there has an intangible component to it that will always be with us when we think of it.  What I can share with you are those quantifiable things we’ve learned during our visits to Santorini:

OH MY- that caldera view!

Located in the Aegean Sea, Santorini (or Thíra) is actually a small group of islands in the southernmost part of the Cyclades, and includes Thíra, Thirassiá, Asproníssi, Palea and Nea Kaméni.  The Santorini islands were formed from very intense volcanic activity beginning hundreds of thousands of years ago, and are still classified as an active volcano today.  A unique feature of the volcano is that its crater – or caldera – is in the sea.  Its last “big” eruption was some 3600 years ago and destroyed the prehistoric civilization that flourished in the local area, and the most recent volcanic activity on the island was recorded in 1950.

For our tips getting to and from Santorini please see our blog post “Santorini Part I”:  link

When to Visit Santorini:

Our first visit to Santorini was during March.  The weather was cool, but pleasant enough.  What we enjoyed most about this visit was the relative emptiness of the island.  Last minute and affordable lodging was easily arranged for our stay, and across the island restaurants were open with no need for advance reservations.  Certainly low season found some businesses closed, and others were in the midst of renovations in preparation for the summer crowds.  But it really didn’t hamper our shopping and dining options so much that it impacted our good time.  We enjoyed seeing the island and the locals living and working at a relaxed pace.

We have never visited Santorini during the high season of the summer months (June/July/August), and I’m not sure I would want to.   We have visited in May, and it was a delightful trip.  We enjoyed warmer weather, but the crowds were not yet overwhelming.  We found beaches along with only a handful of other patrons, and restaurant tables were still relatively easy to come by.  While I booked our lodging about 30 days in advance, inventory was plentiful.

Getting Around the Island:

On our first trip on the island, we rented a four-wheeler to explore.  With map in hand we took advantage of the lack of traffic and crowds to spend hours exploring what seemed like every inch of the island.  ATVs are very popular on the island.  You see rows of them parked at hostels and hotels.  We went directly to the rental store in Fira to arrange for ours, but our hotel also offered arrangement services for ATV rentals.  Interesting to note, however, is that on Santorini we were told you can only rent a scooter if you have a valid motorcycle licence.  We had just come from Crete where we had rented a scooter to do our exploring, so we were quite surprised by the law.

Renting the four-wheeler was easy and economical, and is a fun way to get around the island.

Santorini has frequent public buses (KTEL) that run in all major areas of the island.  The main bus terminal is located in Fira, and all bus routes begin or end in Fira.  In other words, you can’t cross from one end of the island to the other without going to Fira first and transferring buses there.  The system runs with fairly good frequency, but you will find yourself sitting and waiting a good deal if you plan to utilize the buses.  It is the most inexpensive mode of transportation on the island, and tickets for the buses are purchased once you are on board.  I thoroughly enjoyed the people watching opportunities that waiting for the bus afforded us, but after about a day and half we broke down and rented a car from the airport for the balance of our trip.  Our group’s lodging was separated between two different towns on the island, and the bus system made that too hard to manage.

Where to Stay in Santorini:

On our first trip to Santorini- off season – we stayed in Fira.  I had done some research, and the advice offered was to stay in Fira, the capital and the largest city on the island, if visiting during the low season.  It was spot- on advice.  Most shops and restaurants are open year round in Fira, and that is certainly not the case in the other towns and villages on the island.  On the other hand, Fira can become very crowded during the high season, so that is something to consider if you are traveling during the summer months.  Shops, restaurants and night life abound in Fira, so the crowds flock there day and night.

For our stay in Fira we booked Nonis Apartments:  link . It was a pleasant place to stay – clean, comfortable, and very walk-able to all there is to see and do in Fira.  We booked at an excellent rate, so our room did not have a caldera view, but there were public areas on the property with seating that afforded us stunning views of the volcano.  Most importantly, since it was off-season, we had easy access to the main taxi stand and numerous options for ATV rentals within easy walking distance when we needed transportation around the island.

On another stay in Santorini, Todd and I had our twenty-something daughter and niece along.  So they could enjoy the night life that Todd and I had no interest in during our trip, I booked them into Fira Backpackers Place: link.  They both reviewed the place well:   it was modest, but clean and comfortable.  They enjoyed meeting the other travelers in their dorm, and managed to have a very good time in Fira during the hours after Todd and I were long, fast asleep.

Depending what your interests are there are several towns and villages with many lodging options at all price points.  On our first trip to Santorini while we were exploring, we came upon the village of Emporio which is known for its medieval Kasteli.  It is a charming village with a maze of streets and alleyways that twist and turn through the traditional and historic part of the village.  When we first discovered it I remember thinking that if we ever came back to Santorini, I’d want to stay there.  So when we found ourselves returning to Santorini the following year, I searched high and low for a reasonably priced room.  I found several options with all the traditional charm I was looking for on Airbnb.  Emporio is centrally located on the island, so you won’t find many sweeping sea views, but it’s a quaint and very quiet place to escape some of the more bustling areas on the island.

Entrance to our Airbnb place- so charming and built into the castle walls.
Church bell in the traditional area of the village.
View from our patio.
Comfortable cafe along the alleyway to our Airbnb- Lovely place for a drink or dessert.

The most famous village in Santorini is no doubt Oia (pronounced Ia).  Situated on a cliff with stunning views, it oozes traditional charm.  Compared to Fira, it is a very quiet and peaceful place to relax and enjoy all the village has to offer, including many shops, cafes, and taverns.  Sunset viewing from points in Oia is an island industry in and of itself, and it is not to be missed!

If a town full of black sand beaches is more your style, Perissa may be where you might consider staying.  It offers lodging for all budgets and many restaurants, beach bars, and beach-y shops to choose from.  Enjoying the deep blue water from a lounge chair at Perissa Beach is a wonderful way to pass an afternoon.

Some of our Favorite Things to Do in Santorini:

Visiting the Akrotiri Lighthouse was one of my favorite adventures in Santorini.  It is best reached by car or ATV, and once there you are rewarded with stunning views.  Oia may be known for sunset gazing, but my favorite sunset on the island is from this lighthouse.  There are some nearby hikes available, but I prefer a blanket, a perch on the rocks, and a bottle of wine to enjoy while the sun slowly dips into the Aegean Sea.

You can almost hear the sun sizzle when it hits the water.

You will find ample tours on Santorini leaving from the old port in Fira and heading to the volcano on the island of Nea Kameni.  We enjoyed walking down the 600 steps from Fira to the old port, but you can also ride down on the cable car.  The volcano tours take anywhere from a couple of hours to 1/2 a day or more depending on optional activities.  Some tours include a visit to the hot springs on Palea Kameni, or an extended sail around the caldera.  Sunset tours are also available.   Once you arrive at the volcano, you have about 90 minutes to visit the active crater.  The hike to the crater follows along a path and takes about 25-30 minutes.  It is an uphill climb, not for the faint of heart, but doable with benches for resting if needed along the way.

Our daughter at the cater after her hike.
Views at the crater!

Once you arrive back at the old port, getting yourself back up to Fira can be accomplished by 2 methods…or 3, I suppose, if you choose to climb the 600 stairs yourself (Yikes!).  The quickest way to the top is the cable car.  It’s an inexpensive ticket and the ride up takes only a few minutes.  The other option,  and more traditional method, is riding up the steps on a donkey.  While the locals have been using donkeys to get up the steps for decades, it has become a controversial choice with overtures of animal cruelty concerns.  Riding the donkeys can seem like a romantic notion and it is a unique experience.  But do a little research on the pros and cons beforehand, and you can make the decision that is right for you.

Beaches…what more do I have to say? Santorini may not be the most famous Greek Island for beach going, but it is still a lovely way to pass the day while there.  Some beaches are more upscale than others, with bar service provided at your lounge chair; some are more remote and require a bit of a hike to get to; while still others are nude.  Depending on which beach you choose you may find red, white, or black sand , or black or red volcanic pebbles.  No matter which beach you choose, you will always find views of that deep, blue sea.

A wonderful view for an afternoon.
But sometimes you want a little more luxury included in your beach view.

 

When I think back on our favorite day in Santorini, that slow and easygoing Sunday in March,  perhaps what was most remarkable about our experience was the feeling that we had the freedom to travel and access whatever nook or cranny of the island we wanted to explore.  We felt an intimate connection to the island, and perhaps for that one day – in some way- it was our own island to explore as we wished, with our own personalized memories to create.

I have a feeling Todd and I have not seen the last of Santorini in our travels.  The stunning views, our shared memories, and the promise of new experiences will continue to pull us back there.  We have many places still to see in the world, but I know we will be drawn back there again…hopefully sooner rather than later.

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Pie Town, New Mexico….My Personal Mecca

I love obscure holidays on the calendar.  Each week brings a wealth of unique and special days that mostly go by unnoticed by the majority of us.  Just a few weeks ago, while I was struggling with what to have for dinner, the collective of the internet alerted me to the time-honored observance of “National Pancake Day.”  Perfect!  Dinner menu decided!  July 6th will once again find me celebrating “National Fried Chicken Day,” but somehow I will have more trouble rallying my enthusiasm for “National Spinach Day” later this month (March 26th).

Last week marked a couple particularly special days worth celebrating in our household.  First was “National Napping Day” which is observed annually on the day following the switch to daylight savings time.  Rest Assured (pun intended) even without any advance planning, Todd and I tore that celebration up!  However, March 14th or “Pi Day” holds a very special place for us.  As a couple, we don’t always manage any special acknowledgement of “Valentines Day,” but Todd knows better than to allow “Pi Day” to pass without making it a date.  FYI- we don’t celebrate by figuring the circumference of any circles.

I love good pie.  Sometimes I think my love of pie still defines me as a good mid-western girl at heart, even though I haven’t lived there for years.  Sometimes I think my love of pie merely defines me as my mother’s daughter.  Either way, to me, good pie is almost a food group in and of itself.

Good pie is a quest for me.  Accordingly, when we find ourselves traveling through the Southwest, we always find the route that takes us through Pie Town, New Mexico.  We’ve managed the trip 3 times in the last 3 years.  I once told the story of our Pie Town adventures to my sister-in-law and she asked me what it was near.  I remember thinking…nothing…of course…it’s near nothing.  You just plan to go through there on purpose.  Sure, we are on the way somewhere else each time we have stopped in, but the trip is ALWAYS designed to take us through Pie Town.  It is a destination for us.  Pie Town might just be my personal mecca.

Pie Town, located along U.S Highway 60 in Catron County, is an unincorporated community of less than 200 souls located in the high desert of New Mexico.  It’s named for a bakery that was opened by Clyde Norman in the early 1920s and specialized in dried-apple pies.  It’s long been a popular stop for Continental Divide Trail hikers and road-trippers alike.  Each year the second Saturday of September sees thousands descend on this corner of the New Mexico as Pie Town plays host to a very popular Pie Festival complete with pie-eating and pie-baking competitions.

I first saw a story about Pie Town on CBS News Sunday Morning in the fall of 2015 and immediately decided I would have to see it (and taste it!) for myself.  An opportunity arose just a few months later when our son needed someone to drive one of his cars when he relocated to California from Alabama.  I told him I’d be happy to drive a car provided he map a route for us through Pie Town.  It turned into a wonderful drive through a part of the country where I had not previously spent much time.

Our route West had us leaving the interstate behind in Central Texas.  Our drive across the arid land in West Texas was long, flat, and quite beautiful in its own way.  I loved the small towns U.S. Highway 380 wound us through with their local diners, Dairy Queens, and donut shops.

What I think I enjoyed most about this particular trip was that I was truly just along for the ride-except I was driving.  I had done no research about our route, so with each bend in the road I was continually surprised about not only the scenery, but also the places we passed.  Shortly after crossing into New Mexico, U.S. Highway 380 passes through Roswell. I was delighted at the possibility of a brief stop to see the kitschy attractions.  Unfortunately, time was not on our side, and it was not to be- at least not on this trip.  I made a promise to myself that Todd and I would make this trip again with site-seeing stops along the way, and we continued to push through to California with our planned stop in Pie Town.  I did manage to lobby my son for a 1/2 day detour to the Grand Canyon, and Todd and I drove the route again about a year later on our way to visit our son in his California home making all the stops along the way.

Pie Town is an extremely hospitable place.  Plan your trip carefully, however.  A couple of the cafes are not open year round, and they keep very short serving hours when they are open.  I recommend you do your research on the cafes’ websites and/or Facebook pages to make sure your stop is not in vain.  You are going to drive out-of-the-way to get there, so make sure it counts!  At the time my son and I visited there were only two pie cafes in operation, Pie-O-Neer Pie Shop and  Daily Pie Cafe, and we had to press to arrive before closing time at 4 pm.  But the Pie-O-Neer was open when we arrived, and did not disappoint.

The Pie-O-Neer was featured in a documentary, Pie Lady of Pie Town, in 2014,  as well as, in the CBS story I saw in 2015.  The Daily Pie Cafe was also featured on CBS, but I have never been lucky enough for the shop to be open during any of our trips.  The Pie-O-Neer does a very brisk business, but is only open 3 days a week, and is closed during the winter.  It traditionally opens for business on “Pi Day” each year.  The service is warm and inviting; the pies are delicious and well worth the effort of the long drive.  However, you should think about calling ahead to place your slice on hold if you are looking for a specific flavor.

Apple-Cranberry Crumb and Cheer-y Cherry!  They were sooo good that we ordered a chaser piece of Apple Ala Mode to share….Try the New Mexico Apple Pie, as well!  The sweetness of the apples and the heat of green chiles…Yum!

On my second trip to Pie Town with Todd, we were running late and knew the shops would be closed by the time we arrived.  It was the price to pay for a wonderful day of sight-seeing along the route.  We were extremely disappointed, but we thought we’d at least stop and take some pictures.  Once we arrived in town, we noticed a new pie shop, The Gatherin’ Place, had opened for business.  It was almost closing time, but we pulled in and got some pie!  The owner could not have been more gracious and her pies were delectable.  A five member band traveling through on tour stopped in just as we did.  So there the owner found herself, just before closing time, with a cafe full of customers!  She offered up the last of the day’s pies to all of us, and even offered to stay open late to bake more for us if we had the time to wait.  The Gatherin’ Place is open year round from 7:30 am – 6:00 pm each day.

On our third trip through Pie Town, Todd and I had our daughter in tow.  We were driving from Texas to Utah for the holidays, and decided to detour through Pie Town en-route.  We ordered ahead at The Gatherin’ Place and picked up whole pies for our Christmas dinner.  Naturally, while there we had breakfast and pie…why waste a visit! Delicious!  A particularly nice feature of The Gatherin’ Place are large communal tables that facilitate pleasant conversation with other patrons- locals and travelers, alike.  It makes the experience as sweet as the pies.

If travel is about the journey, pursuing good pie along the way is making the trek even sweeter for us.  We’ll keep searching for it everywhere the road takes us, and we’ll be making it “Pi Day” every chance we get….because making it “National Spinach Day” just doesn’t translate.

 

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Santorini- A Beautiful Corner of the World: Part I

It’s no big secret that Santorini is a beautiful corner of the world.  It first came to my attention in the 1982 movie Summer Lovers.  Except for the fact that it is perhaps the best piece of scenic marketing ever produced for the Greek Islands, you are not missing much if you haven’t seen the movie.  The story is fairly thin –  basically American boy and girl summer on Santorini following their graduation from college.  Once there, boy is attracted to an exotic French woman and begins an affair.  The affair does not break up the young couple, but rather they eventually have the French girl move in with them.  They spend the balance of the summer as a threesome.  It amounts to a little more than ninety minutes of gratuitous nudity and sex spread across the beautiful backdrop that is Santorini.

Watching the movie so very many years ago, I remember my breath being taken away by the landscapes and sweeping vistas of the islands.  Even as a teenager, I found the island views so striking it was hard to concentrate on all the beautiful naked bodies also competing to fill the screen.  Of course, back in the 80s, superfluous nudity in movies targeted at my teenage demographic was nothing if not the norm.  We had an endless buffet of skin and sex in just about every teen comedy that came through the theaters and later landed in our local movie rental stores.  Remember Fast Times at Ridgemont High? Porky’s along with Porky’s II and Porky’s Revenge? Risky Business?  Blue Lagoon?   The list of examples of these movies is endless, although it is certainly not a movie trend we see anymore.  I suppose those teen sex-romps went out of fashion when somewhere along the line it became all important to achieve a PG-13 rating to maximize profits.  These movies portrayed a world where “boys will be boys”; an endless supply of female nudity; lots and lots of casual sex without consequences; and the girls were often not presented in the most favorable terms.  Even in Summer Lovers, both of the women become the man’s lovers, but no relationship between them was depicted.  I suppose the 80’s was not quite ready for such images on the mainstream screen.

All these many years later, I don’t even remember how Summer Lovers ends or if the characters came to any resolution.  Because even as a teenager, and with the naked bodies filling the screen, I couldn’t miss what was the real star of the movie for me:  Santorini.  It took me another almost 35 years to visit, but it was certainly worth the wait.  It turns out- just as I’d suspected as a teenager and regardless of what the movie’s plot would have you think- engaging in a threesome while visiting is really not needed to enjoy Santorini.

A spring morning enjoying the beauty of Santorini

 Located in the Aegean Sea, Santorini (or Thíra) is actually a small group of islands in the southernmost part of the Cyclades, and includes Thíra, Thirassiá, Asproníssi, Palea and Nea Kaméni.  The Santorini islands were formed from very intense volcanic activity beginning hundreds of thousands of years ago, and are still classified as an active volcano today.  A unique feature of the volcano is that its crater- or caldera- is in the sea.  Its last “big” eruption was some 3600 years ago and destroyed the prehistoric civilization that flourished in the local area, and the most recent volcanic activity on the island was recorded in 1950.

Getting to and from Santorini

Arrival by Air:  On our first trip, Todd and I found ourselves unexpectedly traveling in Greece without a solid itinerary or much prep work.  See:  Europe Without Reservations.

After spending several wonderful days on Crete we decided to move on to Santorini.  This first trip to Greece was in March and certainly “off-season.”  However, that afforded us the opportunity-even last minute-to take advantage of inexpensive fares on the low-price regional airlines that service Europe.  Had we been traveling during the busy season, we perhaps could have booked passage on a ferry taking us directly to Santorini from Crete.  But the low-season ferry schedule did not permit this.  Our only real choice was to fly through Athens.  We were able to book the tickets a couple of days before we flew for about 50 euro each on Aegean Airlines.  Depending on the times of the year, and when you book your tickets, you can find much lower available fares.

Tips and notes:

  • The airport at Santorini is small and crowded during scheduled arrivals and departures.  The airport internet is easily overwhelmed and of little use.   I was glad that I had taken the time to write down the necessary contact information for our lodging before leaving the Athens airport.  We were arriving after 10 pm, and without a useful internet connection at the Santorini airport, we would have been lost upon arrival without my notes.  Instead, we were easily able to connect with our hotel driver once we arrived.
  • Depending on where you are staying many hotels arrange transportation to and from the airport for an additional charge.  Beyond that, your options are to use the public bus service or shuttles/taxi services offered by transportation companies on the island.  Via the bus, you can travel to all towns and villages on the island.  It is the cheapest way to travel, but you can also spend a good deal of time waiting.  Bus tickets are issued inside the bus during the trip.
  • Car rental services are available in the airport arrival area.

Arrival by Ferry:  During our second trip to Greece we were traveling in May.  While still not the “high season” travelers encounter in July or August, many more folks were certainly coming and going between Athens and Santorini.  Once again, we made a last-minute booking originating in Athens, but decided to take a ferry from the Athens port in Piraeus.  The idea of a ferry ride seemed like a romantic notion at the time, and in the end it was an overall positive experience.  But at the same time, I wouldn’t necessarily do it again:

Our ferry ride to Santorini

Tips and notes:

  • There are many companies to choose from, but we opted for Blue Star Ferries.  The ferry from Athens for Santorini leaves at 0730 necessitating arrival at the Blue Star ferry terminal around 0630.  It made for an early morning.  We traveled from our hostel in Plaka (old town Athens) via the Athens metro which was easy enough to navigate.  The metro trip took the better part of an hour.  The walk from the metro stop in Piraeus to the terminal for our ferry was easily a couple of miles according to our pedometers.  With our backpacks in tow we hiked it, not understanding what we were getting ourselves into.  It didn’t look that far on the map!  I would take a cab the next time to ensure an on time arrival at the ferry.
  • The particular spring day we traveled to Santorini via ferry was  a very chilly morning.  We had booked economy passage on the ferry and it was a VERY cold and damp ride.  The main section of the economy ticket seating areas of the ferry was also the designated smoking section.  I wouldn’t make that mistake again.  However, as I explored the other areas of the ferry, I don’t believe any were much better off.  Sure the seating provided was more plush and there was less draft, but it was very crowded anywhere you went on the ferry.  I did get a peek at the “business/first class” sections of the ferry which looked like the place to be.  However, unless I was traveling with a car that necessitated a ferry trip-for the ticket price-I would much rather fly instead.
  • Once the day warmed up a bit, Todd and I spent a good deal of time enjoying the sea views the ferry ride afforded us from outside deck chairs.  The trip took most of the day, and the ferry made several stops on other islands on its way from Athens to Santorini.   We passed the time reading books and playing cards.  The lunch available from the on-board restaurant was tasty enough.
Views from the deck at an island ferry stop on the way to Santorini. This ferry trip made me want to go island hopping around Greece one day.
  • On arrival at the port in Santorini, we were met with a wall of people, cars, and buses in every direction.  While planning for the trip, we had carefully studied which city bus we needed to get ourselves on for the ride to the main bus terminal in Fira and found it easily enough.  We rode to the bus terminal where our daughter and niece, who were traveling with us, were able to walk to their hostel.  Todd and I took another bus to the village of Emporió where our Airbnb was located.
Daughter and niece at the bus terminal in Fira…on the way to their hostel.
  • This particular trip to Santorini with our daughter and niece was a leg of a larger journey designed to teach them how to travel throughout Europe as frugal twenty-somethings.  I’m glad to have experienced traveling by ferry around the islands with them.  But in the future, I think I’d rather stick to flights in and out of Santorini.  Although someday I might try the more expensive high-speed ferry options….It was a beautiful day at sea.

Departure:  We have departed by air both times we’ve traveled to Santorini.  In both instances we took flights in the evening arriving in Athens late.

Tips and notes:

  • On our first trip we happened to be staying in Fira and easily arranged for airport transportation at the taxi stand in the town’s main square.  It was slightly cheaper than what our hotel could arrange for us.  However, it is easy to call a taxi for pick up from other areas of the island.  Fares depend on pick-up and drop-off locations.
  • As mentioned, the Santorini airport is small and crowded during times of arrivals and departures.  It’s very important to arrive with plenty of time to get through security and to your gate.  Once you arrive in the small gate area, seats can be at a premium.  It’s not uncommon to have to stand or stake out a place on the floor to sit and wait for your flight to be called.  There is an outdoor deck area for waiting as well, where we enjoyed card games.   Options for snacks and drinks in the airport beyond security are minimal.
  • On both our return trips from Santorini, we were routed through Athens.  Once in Athens, before we were able to board a plane for the next leg of our journey, we had to again be screened through airport security.  European airlines are much stricter about carry-on luggage size than you find in American airports.  Also, be mindful of the liquids in carry-on luggage.  Todd has had his “travel size” contact solution taken away from him more times than he cares to be reminded of when passing through Athens.
  • When shopping for low regional fares on airlines such as Aegean or Ryan Air, the lowest fares are, of course, for early morning and late evening departures/arrivals.  Athens is a very convenient airport for late arrivals.  In one instance, we were able to take the metro into Athens arriving at our hostel in time for a lovely midnight dinner in the neighborhood.  The last train leaves the airport at roughly 2330.  The buses run 24 hours, however.  On another occasion we were able to take a bus from the airport arriving at our hostel and our much needed beds at 0300.

Santorini  continued:  Part II….    LINK

   

 

 

 

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