Month: February 2018

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Malta! Is It on Your Travel Radar?

Malta was not on my radar until 2015 when my son booked his honeymoon trip.  While I’ve been interested in traveling to places near and far for as long as I can remember, I can’t say I spent much time really considering places that are even slightly off the conventional beaten path.  If you haven’t already spent much time there, it is hard not to get caught up in the mainstream hype that is France or Italy or even Spain when thinking about traveling in Europe.   While it’s long been a popular destination for Europeans looking for sun filled warmth and beaches, when my son first mentioned Malta I think I had to go to a map to find it.   From school days I remembered historical references to the Malta Conference between FDR and Churchill, and in my lifetime I faintly recalled the more recent Malta Summit during which Bush and Gorbachev declared an end to the Cold War shortly after the Berlin Wall fell.

A quick study of Malta taught me that it is an archipelago in the central Mediterranean Sea.  It has long been a crossroads between Europe, the Middle East, and Africa, and its strategic location in this respect resulted in its long history of foreign rule.  Today the evidence of those centuries of foreign influence are readily apparent in the architecture, people, and languages.   In 1964, Malta gained its independence from Britain and it entered the EU in 2004.  Malta exudes old world European charm,  and the Maltese are celebrated for being open, warm and welcoming to travelers.

Simple economics lead us to include Malta in our last European adventure.  While planning a trip that would include our daughter and niece, I originally planned to visit Croatia.  Croatia is a place I’ve long wanted to visit.  But when I checked airfares, Rome to Dubrovnik added 100 euro per head, and  Dubrovnik to Athens added an additional 225 euro each.  Since his honeymoon, our son had always been encouraging us to visit Malta, so on a whim I checked flights.  I found Rome to Malta added 25 euro, and Malta to Athens added 38 euro, per head.    Figuring Croatia would be there for another day, the math clearly led us to include Malta on our itinerary for this trip instead.

Honestly, just going on our son’s recommendation, and a bit of internet searching, we really didn’t know what to expect.  But what we found upon arrival in Malta were sweeping sun filled views in every direction.

View along the fortress walls in Valletta.

With only a few days to enjoy Malta we based our trip out of Valletta, the capitol.  Todd and I booked a lovely, yet very reasonable, one-bedroom apartment on Airbnb in the old town area of the city, while our young twenty-something travel companions stayed a ferry ride and short walk away in St. Julians where the night life and beaches abound.

Lovely shared courtyard outside our Airbnb

The old town area of Valletta is a very walk-able neighborhood where shops, restaurants, bars, coffee shops, markets, churches and museums abound.  The architecture is stunning, and you find one charming street after another.  While old town sometimes seems to be an uphill climb in every direction, it is a very easily navigated area with the streets laid out on a grid.

A street market in old town Valletta.
A weekend festival had concluded the day before our arrival, but we were able to still enjoy the street decorations.
A view of Valletta from the return ferry ride from St. Julians.

A highlight of our stay was a day trip to visit the Blue Lagoon on nearby Comino island.  This beach has to be one of the most lovely places in all of Malta.  After doing my research, I knew it would be important to arrive early in the day before the crowds descended.  The lagoon fills with loads of visitors each day, and finding available beach chairs, and a spot to enjoy the view, gets more difficult as the day goes on.  We decided to take an early morning bus from the bus terminal just outside the walls of old town Valletta to Cirkewwa to catch the ferry to Comino.

The bus ride was a ninety minute trip each way.  It was long for sure, but all the same it was time very well spent.  Our bus was a nice mixture of both tourists and Maltese going about their weekday business.  I revel in people watching, and there was no better way for us to see the island and its goings-on then from the windows of a cross island bus.  I also relish the adventure in trying to get from point A to B in a foreign country.  Sure we could have spent the money required to hire a car to pick us up and take us to the ferry terminal, but where is the fun in that? The challenge of map reading, buying the correct tickets, and getting yourself on the right bus and ferry is the good stuff.

The Blue Lagoon did not disappoint.  The views were stunning in every direction.  We were in the first handful of folks to arrive, and we easily found chairs we could rent and enjoy our day from.

 

Our Blue Lagoon view for the day.
Our first round of the day…earlier than I would like to admit.
Our second round…and the refills were the third round. Are you getting an idea of the day’s agenda?

Before our day at the Blue Lagoon, it had been a long time since I’d spent time on a beach with Europeans.  I very much admire the self confidence they possess and their ability to just let it all freely hang out- regardless of gender, age, size, or shape.  I, on the other hand, with my tankini and swim skirt was in the running for  “Most Modest Swimwear on the Beach” until a young Muslim girl showed up in her burkini.

The small beach area filled up quickly as the afternoon went on. I was glad we had secured our spot early.
A view from our ferry ride back to Malta of one of the many caves and grottoes on Comino.  Stunning!

Another day well spent in Malta included enjoying a few of the many museums.  Short on time, we specifically concentrated our time on history and war museums in Valletta, and they were enlightening.  Malta’s location has afforded it strategic importance and centuries of revolving rule by foreign powers.  Todd and I particularly enjoyed doing a deep dive and learning more about the experiences and struggles of the Maltese people during World War II.

A monument to those who lost their lives during World War II.

Totally out of character for me, I really can’t speak much to the meals we enjoyed during our time in Malta.  In our defense, we had been eating our way through Rome for several days before we arrived in Malta, and I think we were just tired of eating…or overeating as the case may be…for the time being.   In any case, we didn’t take our usual time to find any particular favorite spots.   We did, however, enjoy a delightful substitute for dinner one evening:

I’m looking forward to a longer return visit to Malta one of these days.  For a small archipelago there is still so much for us to see and do there.  A trip to Gozo, which is another highly recommended island more off the beaten path, is high on our list of things yet to experience and I know it will be a trip that’s well worth the wait.

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Caution….I Will Brake for Food

I love dives.  I seek out dives and little hole-in-the-wall places.  Rusty taco trucks are my thing.  Happening upon them on a road trip makes the experience of good food all the better.  A long drive is as much about the food as it is about the journey for me, and our trip from South Carolina to Texas did not disappoint last week.

I was well into adulthood before I realized that not everyone has the same relationship with food that I do.  I don’t ever remember food not being at the forefront of my mind.  Everyday.  All day.  I no more than finish a meal before I start thinking about what my next meal is going to be, and where it is going to come from.  Forget to eat?  Doesn’t happen to me.  Long drives are no different for me than any other day.  I’ll spend an afternoon whiling away the hours on a road trip dreaming about what kind of restaurant we’ll stop at next.

Road trip dining wasn’t always as interesting for us as it is now.  When our kids were younger, the budget – and picky eaters – drove us to the usual fast food restaurants.  When you have a four-year old who only eats chicken nuggets your options are limited.  I remember my oldest son coming home from a trip with his high school girlfriend’s family and marveling at the idea of them  pulling over and eating at a steakhouse.  The sum of his reality had been pulling into a parking lot where he and his younger brother would head to the Taco Bell next door, while his little sister was taken into a McDonald’s by one parent.  The odd parent out would run over to Subway and get sandwiches for the adults.  Steak n Shake was also a perennial family favorite on road trips, and is still universally loved by all of us, much to the chagrin of my now daughter-in-law whose family ate at the steakhouses.

Incidentally, when it came time for our other son to dine out with a girlfriend’s family for the first time, he came home amazed that appetizers had been ordered saying, “I’ve always seen them on menus, but I didn’t know people actually ordered them!”

Our first road trip find last week was in Jackson, Mississippi.  Courtesy of Yelp we stopped in for an early dinner at the Beatty Street Grocery.  link:  Beatty Street Grocery

It’s not far off I-20 but sits in an industrial/commercial neighborhood that felt just a tad bit sketchy in the late afternoon.  There was an adult video store up the block, and the strip club across the street seemed to be doing some brisk business with the after work crowd from the looks of the parking lot.  We circled the restaurant thinking it might be closed and we almost drove away.  But deciding you can’t judge a book by it cover, we opted to put our faith in the wisdom of the Yelpers.

Since closing time was looming, we hurried back to the grill and ordered to go.  The burgers had been well reviewed so I ordered one.  I asked the cook what else was good that would be quick and easy for her.  Without hesitation she told me, “The fried bologna sandwich.” I balked at first, but it was closing time and she was being very gracious.  I went ahead and ordered it.

I don’t remember the last fried bologna sandwich I ate.  It’s been decades no doubt.  But this was one of the best sandwiches I have ever eaten.  She had a slice of tomato, thick piece of bologna, and some sort of fresh tangy relish that was to die for, all on buttery, thick slices of grilled bread….to. die. for.

The owners were closing out their receipts for the day, but couldn’t have been friendlier while we waited for our food.  Customers rushing in minutes before closing are not always received with open arms.  We chatted about our travels; they told us to beware of a town ahead of us that was a renowned speed trap; and we shared a wonderful few minutes with a genuinely delightful couple.  We will be back again one day.

We were equally lucky on our return trip.  Lunchtime was looming as we came upon Hawkinsville, Georgia.  Once again I put my faith in Yelp.  I honestly have good luck with Yelp when we are on the road.  Reviews must be considered carefully but I find them more reliable than those to be found on TripAdvisor.

Yelp pointed us to The Grill and it couldn’t have been a better choice.

The lunch crowd was very local, but we were welcomed none the less.  While perusing the menu I have to say I considered the fried bologna sandwich wondering if lightning could strike twice.   I mean, maybe fried bologna is my new thing, right?

We listened as our waitress rattled off all the specials and new items that were not printed on the menu.  I was briefly drawn to the possibility of the “Grilled Cheese Burger” which was described as two grilled cheese sandwiches serving as the bun that book-ended a 1/4 pound beef patty…or a double patty if we preferred.  But instead, my mid-western girl’s heart stopped when she mentioned the pork tenderloin sandwich.   I remembered the fried and breaded pork tenderloins of my youth that you just can’t find outside of the middle of the country.  (Thanks to Culver’s they are slowly spreading the goodness of tenderloin sandwiches around, but not fast enough.)

The waitress continued to describe specials launching into their new hot dog option which included mushrooms, onions, bacon, cheese,  and chili.  With a wave of the hand we stopped her mid sentence letting her know she had us at ‘two deep fried hot dogs on a bun’….

If you noticed we shared the french fries. Somehow that made all the other questionable choices we were making at The Grill seem alright…

The reality of my sandwich was not what I had envisioned.  It turned out to be a deliciously sweet pulled pork tenderloin with grilled onions that was most tasty.   We were both happily satisfied with our selections as we considered dessert: Pineapple. Cheese. Pie….don’t skip it…. Our waitress mentioned that they had  been messing around with recipes in the kitchen and had stumbled on the idea of Pineapple Cheese Pie, and that it was now their best seller.  We see why.  link:  The Grill

As a very honorable mention, I don’t want to overlook the dinner we stopped in for at The Anthony in Vicksburg, Mississippi.  Our plan had been to stop again in Jackson on our return, but sadly the Beatty Street Grocery closes at 2 pm on Saturdays.  Our meal at The Anthony was deliciously spot on- a shrimp po’ boy and a fried boneless chicken thigh with biscuit and gravy– and I would happily stop in again anytime.  link:  The Anthony

I can’t end a discussion about places worth pulling over for on a road trip without pointing you to Home Grown in Atlanta.  I will drive out of my way to eat here.  I’ve had several fabulous meals here and hope to have many more to come!  I’m always looking for reasons to drive through Atlanta just for this one.  Link:  Home Grown

The pork chop and gravy and crab hash. For the rest of my life if I pass within 50 miles of Atlanta, I will divert here to eat. It’s worth it.

Whatever did we do on road trips before Yelp?

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Military Space-A Travel: Go Do It!

Travel by Military Space-A requires passengers to both do their homework before their trip and be very flexible with their travel itinerary and timelines. But for Service Members and their families who have flexible plans and a desire or need to keep their travel costs low, Space-A travel can be the gateway to a world of travel options.

First and foremost, Space-A travelers need to know that they are not going to be flying on commercial flights.  These flights are military missions, and for the crew, the mission is always going to come first and foremost – as it should.  That being said in our experience the crews are professionals who will work to the best of their ability to make  your flight as comfortable as they can while you are a guest on their aircraft.

Planning your Trip:

There are many informative and helpful websites out there to help you understand Space-A travel.  But to plan your Space-A trip, your first stop should be the official Air Mobility Command (AMC) web page:  Link

AMC’s web page is the one-stop shop for everything you will need to know.  There you will find the important topics, forms, rules, and regulations you will need to make yourself familiar with prior to your trip:  Travel Eligibility, AMC Passenger Terminal Locations, Necessary Travel Documents, Registration Procedures, Flight Schedules and Flight Check-in.  If you find the website leaves you with unanswered questions, don’t hesitate to call, email, or go in person to your nearest AMC Passenger Terminal to talk to the experts.

In recent years, AMC has also moved to social media to provide their customers with the most up to date information about flight schedules and procedures.  The link to each AMC Passenger Terminal’s Facebook page can be found on the AMC webpage and provides invaluable and up-to-date information to travelers.

If you don’t have a Facebook account, I strongly suggest you get one before your Space-A trip.  The ease with which you can find flight schedules and communicate with AMC personnel before and during your trip is vital.  From anywhere in the world, all you will need is your smart phone, tablet, or computer and an internet connection to have the most current information from the nearest passenger terminal at your fingertips.   Information for three-day flight schedules, roll-call times and information, and any delays are routinely updated and posted.

For my own Facebook account I have taken the time to “like” all the AMC Passenger Terminal pages so they routinely appear in my news feed. While traveling, I make sure updates to any terminal pages in the region where I am visiting default to appear at the top of my news feed each time I login to Facebook during our travels.  When we are not actively traveling I only default the Joint Base Charleston Passenger Terminal page to top of my news feed, as it is the closest terminal to our home.  Each morning I enjoy seeing the upcoming flights and dreaming about where we might go next.

Tips and Things to Know about Space-A Travel:

  • If you are traveling as a retired service member you are going to be traveling in the lowest priority category. Frankly, most of us don’t have the time to take advantage of Space-A Travel before retirement.  During the busiest times of the year from the busiest terminals  and along the busiest routes, it is going to be very difficult for you to secure a seat on a Space-A flight.  Summertime and the holidays are notoriously difficult times to secure a seat(s).  It is best to plan your trip around off-season times of the year.  For more information about Passenger Categories see:  link.
  • You will not be traveling in first class luxury on Space-A aircraft.  If flying with amenities is important to you, Space-A may not be a good fit.  The flight mission will dictate the type of aircraft you will be flying on and will also dictate your comforts.  Many aircraft do have standard commercial aircraft seating installed for passengers, however, that doesn’t mean that you should expect even the usual commercial coach class comforts.  The seats may be old and worn and depending on the aircraft you may have to climb a vertical ladder from the cargo bay to get up to them.  Many aircraft will not have traditional commercial seating, instead employing “jump seats” along the sides of the fuselage.
Our daughter boarding a wide open cargo plane outfitted with jump seats.

But at the same time jump seats can be very comfortable especially if the flight is not full:

Todd stretching out on an uncrowded flight.
Same aircraft once pallets of cargo were loaded for the second leg of the trip. Trust me: he still had plenty of room to spread out on those jump seats
  • Flights can be very cold.  Dress comfortably and make sure you bring along plenty of layers to stay warm.  If you have the space in your carry-on bag, I’ve seen many folks pull out sleeping bags to snuggle in during overnight flights.  The crew will typically pass out pillows and blankets to the passengers to use during the flight which will help with your comfort.
  • You will have the option to purchase an inexpensive sack meal during check-in which usually include sandwiches, chips, cookies, fruit, and drinks.  I recommend you purchase them.  They are tasty enough, and a snack along the way can be very welcome even if you don’t want to eat the whole thing.  It can also be a good idea to pack a few snacks of your own to take along with you.  On one leg of a journey, we were able to stop at a local market on the way to the passenger terminal and packed a picnic of fresh crusty bread, cheeses, meats, and olives to eat on the flight. A delicious treat!
  • You will go through a TSA style security screening prior to boarding the plane.  All of the same rules and regulations are in effect:  shoes will come off; you will pass through a metal detector;  only 3 oz bottles of liquids are allowed; etc.  Once on board the flight crew will conduct a safety briefing prior to take- off much like you would expect on a commercial flight.
  • Customers are allowed to register for travel as early as 60 days in advance of their trip window and you should register as early as possible.  Active duty service members must be on leave status before they may register and special conditions are in place for guard and reserve service members.  You should  review the AMC website for complete regulations and protocols.
  • Your registration can be completed several different ways:  in person at any AMC terminal by talking directly to a passenger terminal agent, or the forms can be faxed or emailed, which is usually much easier.  We have always chosen to email our forms to the passenger terminals.  When you arrive at the terminal for flight check in, make sure you have access to your registration email or fax confirmation page.  If for some reason the service agent is unable to find your registration in the system, you will want to have access to the email or fax.  You can find information about the registration form and contact information for all passenger terminals on the AMC website.
  • Ensure when you arrive for flight check-in you have all the necessary documentation such as your passport and any necessary visas.  Additionally ,you will also naturally need your military ID card and any necessary leave forms or copies of your orders.  Once again see the AMC website for the complete list of required documentation.
  • Flexibility in your travel plans is necessary for Space-A travel.  We have at times been lucky enough to secure seats on a plane on our first try and on other trips we have traveled between passenger terminals in Delaware, Baltimore, and New Jersey over a three-day period before finally securing seats on a flight headed to Europe.  You need to bring patience along with you on your travels OR extra money to purchase commercial tickets for one or more legs of your journey if you become constrained for time.
  • Unless you have the luxury of endless time you will sometimes also have to be flexible with your travel locations.  On our last trip, our “plan” was to catch a flight to Rota, Spain, then work our way by train through Madrid, Barcelona, and Florence to meet our niece in Rome.  We were prepared to be flexible in choosing a departure terminal.  But during the week we planned to travel, flights to Europe were scarce.  Only one flight went to Rota that week and it did not take passengers due to hazardous material cargo.  Eventually, we changed course and targeted flights to Germany, and we finally secured seats on a flight to Ramstein that remained overnight in Mildenhall, England en route.  While we had “planned” to be eating tapas in Barcelona, we were actually eating fish and chips while spending a day touring London, which had been no where on our radar for that trip.  The detour turned into a wonderful treat of a day!  Eventually, we made our way to Rome via a commercial flight and met up with our niece in time to continue our travels together.
  • Don’t hesitate to ask questions and speak up.  While trying to get on a flight home from Rota, Spain, we arrived at the terminal before roll-call only to hear an unwelcome announcement.   The plane’s load master had called to say the flight would not be taking any passengers due to lack of cargo space for baggage.  Todd and I just looked at each other and let those words sink in for a minute.  We had risen early with the usual hustle and bustle needed to make the hike to the terminal in time for roll-call with our backpacks in tow.  It was disappointing to say the least.  From across the room I heard a gentleman speak up and ask, “What about those of us with only carry-on bags?”  I wanted to yell, “Yes!  What he said!!!”  The staff in the terminal called out to the plane and the load master agreed to take on those of us with only carry-on bags.  I was never so happy to have been living out of a backpack for the previous three weeks.  The lesson I learned that day was it never hurts to ask the question.  You just might get the answer you are looking for.

For Service Members and their families flying Military Space-A is a wonderful opportunity .  With some careful planning, a generous block of available time, some flexibility, and a dash of adventure a world full of travel is waiting for you.  You only have to get ready, get set and go do it!

 

 

 

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