Road Tripping – Our Moving Feast

August 6, 2018August 6, 2018

Joshua Tree National Park – A Magical but Rugged Desert Landscape

I’ve long been a Gram Parsons fan. Growing up, his second solo album, Grievous Angel, was a particular favorite in our house. With much of our musical tastes heavily influenced by our college age brother, my sister and I would listen to the album over and over and over again. Even if you are a young fan, you can’t be a fan of Gram Parsons without knowing about the connection he had with Joshua Tree, and ultimately, the story of his untimely death there in 1973. Link: For the complete story see Rolling Stone‘s 1973 account of Gram Parson’s death.

Growing up as a Gram Parson’s fan, and hearing continued references to it over the years, Joshua Tree has always occupied a magical – and an almost mystical – place in my imagination. When Todd and I finally had the opportunity to visit, we jumped at the chance. Located in the California desert near Palm Springs, the town of Joshua Tree has long been a draw and haven for artists and musicians. With a funky vibe and very authentic feel, you will find locally owned live music venues, restaurants, art galleries, and shops ready for you to explore and enjoy. Don’t miss the opportunity to spend some time in town before or after your time in the park. It will be time and money very well spent.

Covering slighter more area than the state of Rhode Island, Joshua Tree National Park is located in the unforgiving desert landscape of Southern California. It’s actually the place where two deserts, the Mojave and the Colorado, meet, and each desert has it own distinctive ecosystem. The Mojave Desert has higher elevations and cooler temperatures which support the growth of the Yucca brevifolia, otherwise known as the Joshua tree, for which the park is named. The Colorado Desert supports the growth of dense brush vegetation including shrubs, cactus, and small trees. If you are a Bugs Bunny fan like we are, think of Wile E. Coyote and the Road Runner landscapes, and that is Joshua Tree.

Things to Know about Joshua Tree National Park:

An important aspect to planning your trip to Joshua Tree National Park is to remember you are visiting the desert. The climate and conditions can be difficult and unforgiving.
In Summer the temperatures routinely soar above 100 degrees. (It’s a dry heat, right?) Potable water is available in only limited areas of the park. Make sure you prepare and bring along plenty of water for everyone in your group.
In Winter the days are short and the temperature drops very quickly once the sun goes down. Remember to dress in layers and prepare for potentially frigid temperatures.
Spring can be a lovely time to visit when all the desert flowers are in bloom, and Fall visits also allow for milder daily temperatures. However, with the milder weather will also come the crowds. If possible, avoid the weekend and enjoy mid-week trips which allow for the smaller crowds in the park.
There are no lodging facilities in the park. You will find places to stay in the surrounding communities, however. There is camping available in the park and in nearby areas.
There are no grocery stores or restaurants in the park. However, several picnic areas are available in the park.
The cell phone service in the park is extremely limited.
Expect to encounter wildlife. (During our time in the park we saw snakes, big spiders, and coyotes – story to follow later.) Keep your distance and do not feed the animals.
Dogs must be on leash at all times and are not allowed on the trails.

Our Favorite Things to do in Joshua Tree National Park:

Star Gazing

My favorite time spent at Joshua Tree was definitely the opportunity for star gazing. Located in the high desert and hundreds of miles from the nearest city’s light pollution, the night sky is dazzling. I’ve read the starry sky is best viewed on the eastern side of the park, but to me the view is pretty spectacular from everywhere. We did not research the moon’s phases before our trip and plan accordingly for the darkest possible sky. We did have a fairly bright moon, but we were still astonished by the twinkling skies overhead.

Hiking

Joshua Tree National Park offers many hiking options for those who may be looking for either a short walk or a moderate or even challenging hike. Link: For information about all trails in the park and back country hiking.

Our time in the park was limited, so we were only able to hike one trail while visiting. We chose Lost Horse Loop, a 6.5 mile trek, which afforded us the opportunity to see and explore Lost Horse Mine, an old gold mine in the park. Todd and I visited Joshua Tree in April during the park’s high season. Although the park campgrounds were full of visitors, we did not encounter many folks on this trail, making for a lovely hike. The desert views along the trail were stunning.

While we didn’t encounter many hikers, we did encounter a snake. I don’t like snakes – at all. It’s not rational. I know that. It’s typically Todd’s job to walk in front to see and warn me about snakes on trails. He missed this one somehow, and I saw it first. Which meant I spent the remainder of the hike with my eyes glued to the ground, not trusting Todd to keep an eye out, and watching my every step. Sadly, I think I missed a lot of views on the latter half of the hike.

I also have to note, that while we didn’t see a lot of folks on the trail that day, some that we did see were ill-prepared for what they were doing. While it’s important in all parks and on all trails to have the proper equipment and supplies along, I can’t stress enough how very important it is in Joshua Tree to come prepared to hike. The desert can be unrelenting and stretches out in every direction for as far as the eye can see. You need plenty of water, sturdy shoes, a first aid kit, clothing layers, sun protection, and a solid sense of direction before heading out on a hike as some of the trails wind through wadis and hillsides that have multiple switchbacks, twists and turns. Joshua Tree National Park is not the place to just jump out of your car and start a hike willy-nilly. Respect the inherent dangers of the desert.

Climbing

Joshua Tree is a haven for the rock climbing community. Todd and I are not climbers, but I have to say spending an afternoon watching the climbers around our campground was spectacular.

In the park we pitched our tent at Hidden Valley campground, a busy spot for climbers. By the time we arrived at the park, and then found and set up our campsite, the afternoon was winding down. We decided to scramble up some rock formations and just take in both the scenery and the action. With a small picnic, a blanket, and a couple books, we settled into a spot as high as we dared go, which afforded us sweeping views in every direction. From our perch we could watch novice climbers with their instructors, experienced climbing teams, and some folks who were scrambling up rocks to places they had no business going. We wiled away the late afternoon keeping tabs on everyone’s progress.

Hidden Valley views from our perch with our tent tucked into the rocks

The most heart stopping climbing exhibition we saw came the next morning during breakfast. We saw our first free solo climb. Free soloing is climbing unassisted – no ropes, no harnesses and no type of protective equipment whatsoever. The climber relies solely on his strength and abilities.

As we were enjoying our breakfast I glanced up and saw the climber begin his ascent. At first I was amazed. It was a little thrilling. Within a few moments the mother in me kicked in, however. I wanted him to stop before he hurt himself. As our breakfast continued, every once in a while I would sneak a peek to make sure he hadn’t fallen. It was unnerving to watch. Once he made it to the top, he sat on the ledge for a little rest and to take in the view. I imagine it was something to see. His decent was slower and seemed to be a little more of a challenge for him. Once he reached the ground, he just walked away.

Rock face in Hidden Valley that we watched the climber free solo

Camping and Coyotes

Joshua Tree National Park has eight campgrounds featuring almost 500 campsites. It’s important to note that only two campgrounds, Black Rock and Cottonwood (with 161 sites between them), have access to water and are equipped with flush toilets. There are no electrical hookups in the park, and cell phone reception is all but non-existent. During the high season, October through May, campgrounds often fill up on weekends, and from February through May campsites are usually full during the week as well. Campsites at Black Rock and Indian Cove can be reserved during the high season, and you can reserve group sites located in other campgrounds. But year round, most sites are first-come, first-served, and in summertime, all campsites are available first-come, first-served. Some campgrounds are closed during the summer months. There is a good bit of camping available outside the park in the surrounding area.

During our April visit, Todd and I arrived just after check-in time to locate an available campsite. We drove through several full campgrounds before finally coming upon an open spot in the Hidden Valley Campground. Depending on the campground, a camp site costs $15-$20 per night, and payment is made by dropping registration envelopes in drop boxes located at each campground.

Hidden Valley is a great and centrally located campground that’s surrounded by large boulders, rock outcroppings, and Joshua trees. Campsites are fairly well spaced apart and each includes a picnic table and fire ring. No water is available at Hidden Valley and must be carried in with you. But it does have pit toilets.

We set up our tent on an extremely windy day and thought we were being smart (and very lucky) to have the rock formations at the site that allowed us to tuck in our tent as a wind break. The large boulders around us formed a tunnel. We slid our tent right into the mouth of the tunnel and away from the high winds. Little did we know, our tent set up would eventually come back to haunt us-and potentially bite us. But in the meantime, we passed the afternoon watching the climbers in the area. Later, we decided to climb the rocks above our tent and enjoy the sunset.

Todd enjoying the sunset and a glass of wine on the rocks above our tent. Notice him searching in vain for a cell signal as well.

As nighttime overtook the desert, we enjoyed dinner around the campfire, marveled at the starry sky, and finished the rest of the bottle of wine while coyotes howling at each other serenaded in the distance. As we sat by the fire, we even had one coyote run through the adjacent campsite about 20 yards away. It was a little bit startling, but he ran away as quickly as he had shown up. Eventually at about 11 pm or so, we retired to the tent for the evening exhausted, but relishing everything the park had offered us that day.

But you know how it sometimes can go… a bottle of wine, a starry night, an evening of intimate campfire conversation, and rather quickly one thing led to another inside the tent. I don’t know how much time passed, but I remember hearing a coyote howl off in the distance. The next thing I remember was MANY coyotes howling back their reply. However, these howls were surrounding our tent on all sides – just RIGHT outside the walls. Todd and I froze immediately. I looked at him, and he looked at me with big eyes while we heard a deep growl just outside the tent, the only thing separating us from the coyote being the tent wall – not very reassuring. I can’t speak for Todd, but my heart immediately started beating even faster than it was previously! Todd jumped up and grabbed the hatchet. I’m not sure what he thought he was going to do. But just like that, the coyotes were gone. Of course, we immediately realized that we had tucked our tent right into the mouth of a tunnel that has probably long served as a concealed avenue of movement for the coyotes in the area. At least we can say the romance was the only thing actually killed that night!

Joshua Tree really is a magical and mystical place, and if you ever get the chance, by all means visit. It is beautiful. But don’t underestimate that at its core, it can be an unforgiving and rugged desert landscape. However if you respect the inherent dangers that spending time in the desert can present you, it will be a wonderful experience. Just be careful. You don’t want to experience your own version of … as Todd and I now fondly refer to our evening in Joshua Tree … “coyotus interuptus.” “Beep Beep,” or should that read, “Bleep Bleep.”

April 20, 2018April 20, 2018

Yosemite is as Spectacular as You Think!

California has never been much of a draw for me. Or maybe I should say, Southern California has never held much appeal. I have traveled to the Los Angeles area a few times in my life, and always left wondering what the allure was about. Sure the weather is pleasant enough, but the traffic, the desert landscape, the lack of public transit, and the lack of architectural character leave a lot to be desired. While I have visited some lovely art galleries and flea markets in LA, and I could certainly get behind a tour of the stars’ homes, it mostly feels like a manufactured city. Portrayals of Southern California in the media leave the impression that it is full of superficial people, or those who are full of broken dreams.

When I tell someone that I grew up in Illinois, the immediate assumption is that I’m from Chicago. But I hail from the cornfields in central Illinois, which are a world away from Chicago. It took me some time before I realized that I was making this same assumption about California. California is not just Southern California and LA. Once we finally took the time to explore what the rest of the state has to offer – the central farmlands, the coast, and of course, the Bay Area – we were hooked.

A favored stop for us during our California road trip was Yosemite, and it is hard to find the words to explain how stunning the sight of Yosemite Valley truly is if you haven’t had the opportunity to see it for yourself. All the pictures I’ve ever seen in books, on-line, or on television, truly don’t do it justice. When you stand there and look across the valley, the grandeur and beauty of the natural wonders are genuinely awe-inspiring.

President Abraham Lincoln signed the Yosemite Grant in 1864 which, first and foremost, protected the Yosemite Valley from development. In later years, naturalist John Muir lobbied to include the surrounding mountains and forests within the protected zone making Yosemite the precedent for the U.S. National Park system. Today Yosemite National Park is roughly the size of Rhode Island and averages more than 4 million visitors each year.

Todd and my travels brought us to Yosemite in late April, so the weather was pleasant during our stay and the crowds were manageable. As a majority of park visitors do, we spent most of our time in Yosemite Valley, an area of about 6 square miles. During winter and spring, roads in the upper elevations of the park are closed due to snow and ice cover, and we happened to visit during the three-year restoration project that has closed Mariposa Grove, a sequoia grove located near Wawona, California in the southern area of the park. The restoration project is scheduled to be complete in June of 2018.

Our “Tunnel View” pic – a Yosemite Park view made famous by Ansel Adams. El Capitan, Half Dome and Bridalveil Falls in the background.

During our stay in Yosemite, Todd and I stayed in Camp 4 which is a “walk-in” campground where spots are first-come, first-served and cost $6 per person, per night. A parking lot is located adjacent to the campground and all equipment must be carried into the camp sites. The campground is fairly primitive and not much to look at, although there are bathrooms with running water and flush toilets. Recognized for the importance it played as the center of the development of the sport of rock climbing in the years following World War II, Camp 4 was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2003. The campground continues to draw many rock climbers who use it as their home-base while climbing in the park, and many of our fellow campers could be found bouldering in the immediate areas near Camp 4 at all times of the day.

Camp 4 has thirty-five shared tent-only sites each accommodating up to six campers. Four bear-proof food lockers are provided at each site along with a fire ring and two picnic tables. Todd and I arrived in the late afternoon, and although the camp was fairly full, we found an open spot easily enough. Since it was off-season, we self-registered that evening, then had to register for the remainder of our stay with the park ranger who came on-duty the next morning at 8:30 a.m. During high season and especially over holidays, it is important to arrive very early in the day to secure a campsite in Camp 4.

What I loved most about Camp 4 is the communal style camping. Todd and I shared our camp site with two young couples. Both couples were several months into extended travel adventures. The first couple had just finished working the ski season in Vail, Colorado and were on their way to Alaska to work the summer season with a tour company. The second couple was young professionals who had quit their jobs to take some time to see the world. They had recently accepted jobs working the forest fire season in Oregon to earn more money to continue their travels. They were slowly working their way up to Oregon in the coming weeks with several more National Park stops along the way. I thoroughly enjoyed our few evenings spent with these young friends around the campfire talking into the wee hours and drinking wine. Both of them happened to have recently traveled to Thailand. We enjoyed hearing stories from their trips, and we shared with them about our time spent in Europe just a few weeks before.

One thing that struck me on our first evening with our young friends was a discussion about firewood. Park regulations forbid picking up firewood in the park forests. They also forbid bringing in firewood from other places – there is a danger of insect infestation and disease. Firewood must be purchased locally. Both young couples mentioned that while they had been out shopping for supplies, they had passed over firewood because of the expense. In the store, Todd and I gasped at the purchase price, shrugged, and bought the firewood. Who wants to camp without a fire – right? It made me think though: I truly admire the adventurous spirits of both these young couples. While Todd and I have been indulging in a bit a wanderlust these last few years, and intend to do so for the foreseeable future, we are doing so after decades of professional life and from a place of more financial security. Todd and I had kids very young, and for us, quitting a job to see the world was not an option when we were in our twenties. But otherwise, I wonder, would we ever have considered taking such a leap of faith in our youth? Would we have wanted to? Is there one stage of life when travel is more fulfilling than at other stages? Hmmm… What I do know is that at this place in our life we’ve adopted a budget traveler style, but we can also afford the firewood when we want it…. and I appreciate that in our travels.

One of our favorite days at Yosemite was spent hiking the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail. A historic trail in the park, it was built between 1873 and 1877, and climbs to the top of Yosemite Falls, the tallest waterfall in North America. It’s not an easy climb and I have since read that not only is the trail long – over 7 1/2 miles round trip – it’s the equivalent of climbing a little more than TWO Empire State Buildings. Todd and I were fortunate to be at the park in spring when the falls are full from the runoff of the melting winter snows. By late summer, the falls can dry up completely, however.

Yosemite Falls with spring waters roaring!

While on the trail, I appreciated and reflected on the amount of work it must have taken crews – given the tools and technology in the late 1800’s – to carve out such a trail. Several areas had stair-steps carved into the granite, and I thought about what it would have been like to be a tourist on this trail so many years ago when it was new. Certainly Todd and I would have hired men to carry our supplies for us. Our trip to enjoy Yosemite would have likely included an entire traveling party instead of just the two of us, and our picnic lunch at the top of the falls would have been a much more elaborate affair. The other ladies and I would have been climbing in our period dresses with our sturdy boots, and carpets would have been brought up with us to lay out on the ground before we sat down to enjoy our meal – an ordeal indeed! (To see images of early tourists at Yosemite click here. )

All trails in Yosemite Valley can be crowded, and while we had plenty of fellow hikers along with us to the top of the falls, it really didn’t diminish the experience. I enjoyed the sense of community along the trail as we hiked. Because of how strenuous the hike is, there was a good deal of both mutual grumbling and mutual encouragement expressed by everyone along the route. My legs were burning on the climb up and my knees were sore on the way down. But as we descended, I appreciated a certain sense of accomplishment as I was finally able to be the one who could tell the tired and doubting climbers that it would indeed be worth the effort once they reached the top – the VIEW!

Yosemite is truly a one of a kind gem in the U.S. National Park system. It took Todd and I a long time to give California a chance. But with the grandeur and stunning natural wonder of Yosemite waiting for you…get out there SOONER rather than later.

(For complete information about Yosemite National Park click here.)

March 19, 2018March 20, 2018

Pie Town, New Mexico….My Personal Mecca

I love obscure holidays on the calendar. Each week brings a wealth of unique and special days that mostly go by unnoticed by the majority of us. Just a few weeks ago, while I was struggling with what to have for dinner, the collective of the internet alerted me to the time-honored observance of “National Pancake Day.” Perfect! Dinner menu decided! July 6th will once again find me celebrating “National Fried Chicken Day,” but somehow I will have more trouble rallying my enthusiasm for “National Spinach Day” later this month (March 26th).

Last week marked a couple particularly special days worth celebrating in our household. First was “National Napping Day” which is observed annually on the day following the switch to daylight savings time. Rest Assured (pun intended) even without any advance planning, Todd and I tore that celebration up! However, March 14th or “Pi Day” holds a very special place for us. As a couple, we don’t always manage any special acknowledgement of “Valentines Day,” but Todd knows better than to allow “Pi Day” to pass without making it a date. FYI- we don’t celebrate by figuring the circumference of any circles.

I love good pie. Sometimes I think my love of pie still defines me as a good mid-western girl at heart, even though I haven’t lived there for years. Sometimes I think my love of pie merely defines me as my mother’s daughter. Either way, to me, good pie is almost a food group in and of itself.

Good pie is a quest for me. Accordingly, when we find ourselves traveling through the Southwest, we always find the route that takes us through Pie Town, New Mexico. We’ve managed the trip 3 times in the last 3 years. I once told the story of our Pie Town adventures to my sister-in-law and she asked me what it was near. I remember thinking…nothing…of course…it’s near nothing. You just plan to go through there on purpose. Sure, we are on the way somewhere else each time we have stopped in, but the trip is ALWAYS designed to take us through Pie Town. It is a destination for us. Pie Town might just be my personal mecca.

Pie Town, located along U.S Highway 60 in Catron County, is an unincorporated community of less than 200 souls located in the high desert of New Mexico. It’s named for a bakery that was opened by Clyde Norman in the early 1920s and specialized in dried-apple pies. It’s long been a popular stop for Continental Divide Trail hikers and road-trippers alike. Each year the second Saturday of September sees thousands descend on this corner of the New Mexico as Pie Town plays host to a very popular Pie Festival complete with pie-eating and pie-baking competitions.

I first saw a story about Pie Town on CBS News Sunday Morning in the fall of 2015 and immediately decided I would have to see it (and taste it!) for myself. An opportunity arose just a few months later when our son needed someone to drive one of his cars when he relocated to California from Alabama. I told him I’d be happy to drive a car provided he map a route for us through Pie Town. It turned into a wonderful drive through a part of the country where I had not previously spent much time.

Our route West had us leaving the interstate behind in Central Texas. Our drive across the arid land in West Texas was long, flat, and quite beautiful in its own way. I loved the small towns U.S. Highway 380 wound us through with their local diners, Dairy Queens, and donut shops.

What I think I enjoyed most about this particular trip was that I was truly just along for the ride-except I was driving. I had done no research about our route, so with each bend in the road I was continually surprised about not only the scenery, but also the places we passed. Shortly after crossing into New Mexico, U.S. Highway 380 passes through Roswell. I was delighted at the possibility of a brief stop to see the kitschy attractions. Unfortunately, time was not on our side, and it was not to be- at least not on this trip. I made a promise to myself that Todd and I would make this trip again with site-seeing stops along the way, and we continued to push through to California with our planned stop in Pie Town. I did manage to lobby my son for a 1/2 day detour to the Grand Canyon, and Todd and I drove the route again about a year later on our way to visit our son in his California home making all the stops along the way.

Pie Town is an extremely hospitable place. Plan your trip carefully, however. A couple of the cafes are not open year round, and they keep very short serving hours when they are open. I recommend you do your research on the cafes’ websites and/or Facebook pages to make sure your stop is not in vain. You are going to drive out-of-the-way to get there, so make sure it counts! At the time my son and I visited there were only two pie cafes in operation, Pie-O-Neer Pie Shop and Daily Pie Cafe, and we had to press to arrive before closing time at 4 pm. But the Pie-O-Neer was open when we arrived, and did not disappoint.

The Pie-O-Neer was featured in a documentary, Pie Lady of Pie Town, in 2014, as well as, in the CBS story I saw in 2015. The Daily Pie Cafe was also featured on CBS, but I have never been lucky enough for the shop to be open during any of our trips. The Pie-O-Neer does a very brisk business, but is only open 3 days a week, and is closed during the winter. It traditionally opens for business on “Pi Day” each year. The service is warm and inviting; the pies are delicious and well worth the effort of the long drive. However, you should think about calling ahead to place your slice on hold if you are looking for a specific flavor.

Apple-Cranberry Crumb and Cheer-y Cherry! They were sooo good that we ordered a chaser piece of Apple Ala Mode to share….Try the New Mexico Apple Pie, as well! The sweetness of the apples and the heat of green chiles…Yum!

On my second trip to Pie Town with Todd, we were running late and knew the shops would be closed by the time we arrived. It was the price to pay for a wonderful day of sight-seeing along the route. We were extremely disappointed, but we thought we’d at least stop and take some pictures. Once we arrived in town, we noticed a new pie shop, The Gatherin’ Place, had opened for business. It was almost closing time, but we pulled in and got some pie! The owner could not have been more gracious and her pies were delectable. A five member band traveling through on tour stopped in just as we did. So there the owner found herself, just before closing time, with a cafe full of customers! She offered up the last of the day’s pies to all of us, and even offered to stay open late to bake more for us if we had the time to wait. The Gatherin’ Place is open year round from 7:30 am – 6:00 pm each day.

On our third trip through Pie Town, Todd and I had our daughter in tow. We were driving from Texas to Utah for the holidays, and decided to detour through Pie Town en-route. We ordered ahead at The Gatherin’ Place and picked up whole pies for our Christmas dinner. Naturally, while there we had breakfast and pie…why waste a visit! Delicious! A particularly nice feature of The Gatherin’ Place are large communal tables that facilitate pleasant conversation with other patrons- locals and travelers, alike. It makes the experience as sweet as the pies.

If travel is about the journey, pursuing good pie along the way is making the trek even sweeter for us. We’ll keep searching for it everywhere the road takes us, and we’ll be making it “Pi Day” every chance we get….because making it “National Spinach Day” just doesn’t translate.

March 2, 2018June 16, 2018

Economy Accommodations- What We’ve Learned

Dan is a liar who is also unfaithful. At least those are the words Todd and I heard being screamed at him in the middle of the night from our room which happened to be right next door to Dan’s. We had arrived at this particular Motel 6 in eastern Texas just before 10 pm after a long day of driving. After being briefly distracted by social media on our phones, Todd and I almost immediately went to sleep in preparation for an early morning departure.

I’m not exactly sure when the argument started next door, but I’m going to go out on a limb and say it was probably not long after “closing time” at some nearby establishment. I was immediately jarred awake when Dan’s wife? girlfriend? started screaming at him, but I didn’t move. I could tell Todd was also awake although neither of us moved or spoke about our neighbors until the next morning. I just listened – intently and on guard – in case the argument spiraled into a domestic violence situation that would require intervention from authorities. Every word of her displeasure in Dan was easy to hear, but he was speaking in a low and muffled voice. Eventually the argument died down and the television was turned on in their room. As I slowly drifted back to sleep, my thoughts were occasionally punctuated by her yelling at Dan to “shut up.” Mostly I was lying there thinking about how I wished I was staying in a higher-end hotel room – one with real glasses by the sink. Not that I would ever trust a real glass to have been cleaned properly enough to drink from. No way! But I could have used that glass to put my ear up to the wall to hear better. What had Dan been saying to her?

A couple of years ago Todd and I started making a conscious effort to stay at economy motels for brief stops on the road. Our logic being why should we spend more than twice the money when we are doing nothing more than sleeping, waking up, showering, and getting back on the road again? Certainly if we are homesteading out of the same place for a few days during a trip, we will spend the extra money to increase our creature comforts. In fact when we are going to be spending multiple nights in the same location, I usually skip over hotels entirely and move onto Airbnb to rent an entire apartment or house for our use instead. When we traveled with small kids things like pools and other amenities were important to us. But now that it’s just us arriving at bedtime and setting an alarm to get back on the road early, why spend $100-$150 for a Holiday Inn Express or a Hampton Inn when we can spend $50-$75 and have all our needs met for those 8 or so hours at a Motel 6 or an Econo Lodge? That being said, it is important to note that not all economy motels are created equal. You need to do your homework before check-in.

What I like most about economy motels is that they are often locally owned and operated small businesses. A few years ago, after watching the documentary Meet the Patels – which I highly recommend – I was introduced to the notion of “Patel motels.” After watching the movie, I began noticing that many of the motels we were spending the night in were, in fact, owned by members of the Patel community. A little research taught me that almost 50% of all motels in the United States are owned by Indian Americans. Most of them are from Gujarat in central and southern India, and about 70% of them share the surname, “Patel.”

For more information about the phenomenon of “Patel motels” read “Life Behind the Lobby: Indian American Motel Owners and the American Dream.” Link

Every couple has their division of labor, and it is my job to check in and out of motels when we travel. I’m always delighted when I discover we are staying in a “Patel motel,” and Todd and I always do a little high-five when I come back to the car and tell him. What I love most about these motels is the family aspect to the operation. Whether it be a “mom and pop” style motel, or a low, or even mid-level franchised economy motel if you look closely, it’s easy to recognize the signs of family life all around. More often than not, the family running the daily motel operation, whether they be the owners or extended family members who manage the property, also live in the motel. When a desk clerk appears from behind a closed-door, you can often get a glimpse of family life going on behind the walls: a TV on, dishes clanking, a baby fussing, kids laughing and playing. Sometimes you will glimpse teenagers who walk down a hallway and disappear behind a door that clearly leads to back of the house areas of the motel. I love when I know a family is living life just beyond the lobby walls. It makes the motel feel more special and homey.

These motels that dot the landscape off every exit are a uniquely American fixture along our roadways, and it’s very important to both do your homework and manage your expectations before checking into an economy motel, whether it be a “Patel motel” or not:

Read each motel’s reviews carefully! Todd and I do not typically pre-plan our road trip stops. We drive until we get tired or until we reach our destination. As we decide we are done driving for the day, I get on my phone and start searching. I largely rely on reviews from Booking.com. It is a closed reviewing system and only solicits its reviews from customers who have booked a motel through the website. I know everyone who is commenting has actually been a customer. I zero in on the cheapest motel with the highest rating, and I try to avoid staying at motels that do not at least score a “7.5” on Booking.com’s rating system. As I read the reviews, I carefully search for comments such as “clean,” “comfortable beds/pillow”, “friendly staff,” etc. It’s also important to take the negative reviews with a grain of salt. People are far more likely to take the time to leave a review when they are disgruntled than when they are pleased with their stay. Read the bad reviews to see if they are legitimate concerns. A review that says the room was dirty carries more weight than one from a customer who is unhappy because noise from the air conditioner unit (or room next door?) kept them awake.

Don’t expect 5-star amenities. The towels are likely to be terrible. Be grateful for the shampoo and conditioner and the couple bars of soap. There will not usually be lotion or any other toiletry items offered. There will be no sign telling you to come down to the front desk if you forgot your toothbrush to get a complimentary one. No hairdryer will be provided. Expect and insist that your bathtub be clean, but don’t expect the bathtub to be new and blemish free by any means.

A morning continental breakfast buffet is not likely, but sometimes you will get a scaled down version. Motel breakfasts do not generally appeal to me anyway. At a minimum, coffee is usually offered in the lobby each morning.

Inspect your room. This is a rule of thumb regardless of where you stay. Bed bugs are just as likely to be in an expensive hotel as they are to be in economy motels. I look at the sheets and mattress for signs of any critters. I wouldn’t lie down on a bedspread whether I’m in a Motel 6 or a JW Marriott.

I will note that I appreciate the direction Motel 6 has taken in recent years. It’s very uncommon to stay at a Motel 6 that hasn’t been refurbished these days. What they have done across their motels is take out the soft furnishing in favor of hard surfaces. Carpeting has been replaced with laminate. Upholstered furniture has been replaced with wood, and bedding is comfortable without being overly plush. I assume these design choices have been made to keep the likelihood of bedbug infestations to a minimum.

If you do your homework and manage your expectations, economy motels can provide very pleasant stays while you are on the road. Sure the walls can be thin sometimes, but I would argue that in most mid-level motels, and often in some higher-end hotels, you will hear more from your neighbors than you would prefer from time to time.

The morning after Dan and his lady friend interrupted our sleep, Todd and I rose early and quietly prepared to get back on the road. We laughed about the argument we’d been witness to and I wondered about Dan. The night before, I’d taken it on faith that Dan was in fact a lying cheater. I’d assumed his low murmured side of the conversation had been an attempt to manipulate and gaslight her. But in the morning light I considered that maybe she was just that kind of crazy drunk who needed to be calmly talked down from the ledge from time to time. Maybe Dan’s transgressions were just imagined?

Todd left to load and warm up the car, and I walked through the room one last time to make sure we had our belongings. I came to the door and noticed that Todd had pulled the car across the parking lot to make sure the idling did not disturb those still sleeping. As I glanced around, Dan’s room was quiet and peaceful. As I imagined them sleeping off their evening, I turned and slammed the door as hard as I could. You see….Todd’s a much nicer person than I am.

February 16, 2018May 22, 2018

Caution….I Will Brake for Food

I love dives. I seek out dives and little hole-in-the-wall places. Rusty taco trucks are my thing. Happening upon them on a road trip makes the experience of good food all the better. A long drive is as much about the food as it is about the journey for me, and our trip from South Carolina to Texas did not disappoint last week.

I was well into adulthood before I realized that not everyone has the same relationship with food that I do. I don’t ever remember food not being at the forefront of my mind. Everyday. All day. I no more than finish a meal before I start thinking about what my next meal is going to be, and where it is going to come from. Forget to eat? Doesn’t happen to me. Long drives are no different for me than any other day. I’ll spend an afternoon whiling away the hours on a road trip dreaming about what kind of restaurant we’ll stop at next.

Road trip dining wasn’t always as interesting for us as it is now. When our kids were younger, the budget – and picky eaters – drove us to the usual fast food restaurants. When you have a four-year old who only eats chicken nuggets your options are limited. I remember my oldest son coming home from a trip with his high school girlfriend’s family and marveling at the idea of them pulling over and eating at a steakhouse. The sum of his reality had been pulling into a parking lot where he and his younger brother would head to the Taco Bell next door, while his little sister was taken into a McDonald’s by one parent. The odd parent out would run over to Subway and get sandwiches for the adults. Steak n Shake was also a perennial family favorite on road trips, and is still universally loved by all of us, much to the chagrin of my now daughter-in-law whose family ate at the steakhouses.

Incidentally, when it came time for our other son to dine out with a girlfriend’s family for the first time, he came home amazed that appetizers had been ordered saying, “I’ve always seen them on menus, but I didn’t know people actually ordered them!”

Our first road trip find last week was in Jackson, Mississippi. Courtesy of Yelp we stopped in for an early dinner at the Beatty Street Grocery. link: Beatty Street Grocery

It’s not far off I-20 but sits in an industrial/commercial neighborhood that felt just a tad bit sketchy in the late afternoon. There was an adult video store up the block, and the strip club across the street seemed to be doing some brisk business with the after work crowd from the looks of the parking lot. We circled the restaurant thinking it might be closed and we almost drove away. But deciding you can’t judge a book by it cover, we opted to put our faith in the wisdom of the Yelpers.

Since closing time was looming, we hurried back to the grill and ordered to go. The burgers had been well reviewed so I ordered one. I asked the cook what else was good that would be quick and easy for her. Without hesitation she told me, “The fried bologna sandwich.” I balked at first, but it was closing time and she was being very gracious. I went ahead and ordered it.

I don’t remember the last fried bologna sandwich I ate. It’s been decades no doubt. But this was one of the best sandwiches I have ever eaten. She had a slice of tomato, thick piece of bologna, and some sort of fresh tangy relish that was to die for, all on buttery, thick slices of grilled bread….to. die. for.

The owners were closing out their receipts for the day, but couldn’t have been friendlier while we waited for our food. Customers rushing in minutes before closing are not always received with open arms. We chatted about our travels; they told us to beware of a town ahead of us that was a renowned speed trap; and we shared a wonderful few minutes with a genuinely delightful couple. We will be back again one day.

We were equally lucky on our return trip. Lunchtime was looming as we came upon Hawkinsville, Georgia. Once again I put my faith in Yelp. I honestly have good luck with Yelp when we are on the road. Reviews must be considered carefully but I find them more reliable than those to be found on TripAdvisor.

Yelp pointed us to The Grill and it couldn’t have been a better choice.

The lunch crowd was very local, but we were welcomed none the less. While perusing the menu I have to say I considered the fried bologna sandwich wondering if lightning could strike twice. I mean, maybe fried bologna is my new thing, right?

We listened as our waitress rattled off all the specials and new items that were not printed on the menu. I was briefly drawn to the possibility of the “Grilled Cheese Burger” which was described as two grilled cheese sandwiches serving as the bun that book-ended a 1/4 pound beef patty…or a double patty if we preferred. But instead, my mid-western girl’s heart stopped when she mentioned the pork tenderloin sandwich. I remembered the fried and breaded pork tenderloins of my youth that you just can’t find outside of the middle of the country. (Thanks to Culver’s they are slowly spreading the goodness of tenderloin sandwiches around, but not fast enough.)

The waitress continued to describe specials launching into their new hot dog option which included mushrooms, onions, bacon, cheese, and chili. With a wave of the hand we stopped her mid sentence letting her know she had us at ‘two deep fried hot dogs on a bun’….

If you noticed we shared the french fries. Somehow that made all the other questionable choices we were making at The Grill seem alright…

The reality of my sandwich was not what I had envisioned. It turned out to be a deliciously sweet pulled pork tenderloin with grilled onions that was most tasty. We were both happily satisfied with our selections as we considered dessert: Pineapple. Cheese. Pie….don’t skip it…. Our waitress mentioned that they had been messing around with recipes in the kitchen and had stumbled on the idea of Pineapple Cheese Pie, and that it was now their best seller. We see why. link: The Grill

As a very honorable mention, I don’t want to overlook the dinner we stopped in for at The Anthony in Vicksburg, Mississippi. Our plan had been to stop again in Jackson on our return, but sadly the Beatty Street Grocery closes at 2 pm on Saturdays. Our meal at The Anthony was deliciously spot on- a shrimp po’ boy and a fried boneless chicken thigh with biscuit and gravy– and I would happily stop in again anytime. link: The Anthony

I can’t end a discussion about places worth pulling over for on a road trip without pointing you to Home Grown in Atlanta. I will drive out of my way to eat here. I’ve had several fabulous meals here and hope to have many more to come! I’m always looking for reasons to drive through Atlanta just for this one. Link: Home Grown

The pork chop and gravy and crab hash. For the rest of my life if I pass within 50 miles of Atlanta, I will divert here to eat. It’s worth it.

Whatever did we do on road trips before Yelp?