Before retiring from the military, we moved our family 17 times in 27 years, and a common question we hear from folks is, “Where did you like living the most?” For me, answering that question has always been difficult. I can’t say I disliked living anywhere we were stationed, but I liked our many different homes for many different reasons. Sometimes it was actually the physical house we lived in that was a joy, and sometimes it was the experience of the location itself, or the people around us. Some of our homes were located near exciting things to see and do (New York); while others were more remote, but were places filled with people who we dearly loved and who became life-long friends (Kentucky). Some places we lived were visually stunning (Colorado), and others didn’t visually offer us quite so much (Texas). Some places even expanded our family’s horizons and exposed us to other cultures (Germany). But each place we lived has offered us precious takeaways, be it from the location, our experiences there, our personal connections made, or in some combination.
I feel the same way about our travels. Sometimes the absolute and stunning beauty of a place leaves its mark on you; or sometimes the memory of experiences you shared there resonates most; and often times it is the personal connections made along the way that are your most precious takeaways. It is hard for me to say exactly what place we’ve traveled to in the world is my favorite, but for Todd and me, Santorini is one of those places that comes pretty close. The beauty of Santorini can certainly take your breath away, but I think what makes it one of our favorite destinations is the memories from a particular, crisp spring day we spent exploring the island.
Our favorite day in Santorini was a slow and easygoing Sunday that has since turned into one of those perfect travel memories. Like any travel partners, Todd and I can get snippy with each other after days and weeks of being in close quarters. It’s only natural. Sometimes we might spend a few hours doing our own thing, and, often times, a shared bottle of wine over lunch can nip our irritation with each other in the bud, and give the rest of the afternoon’s activities a rosier glow. (On the whole, moderate day drinking seems to make us more affable travelers!) But sometimes, the general mood of the day just seems to click – shared jokes are funnier; sights and sounds resonate more meaningfully; smells and tastes are more palatable; and each interaction and experience is just right. That’s the kind of day this certain Sunday was.
I wish I could qualify exactly what it was that made that particular day and Santorini such a special memory for us. But our time there has an intangible component to it that will always be with us when we think of it. What I can share with you are those quantifiable things we’ve learned during our visits to Santorini:
Located in the Aegean Sea, Santorini (or Thíra) is actually a small group of islands in the southernmost part of the Cyclades, and includes Thíra, Thirassiá, Asproníssi, Palea and Nea Kaméni. The Santorini islands were formed from very intense volcanic activity beginning hundreds of thousands of years ago, and are still classified as an active volcano today. A unique feature of the volcano is that its crater – or caldera – is in the sea. Its last “big” eruption was some 3600 years ago and destroyed the prehistoric civilization that flourished in the local area, and the most recent volcanic activity on the island was recorded in 1950.
For our tips getting to and from Santorini please see our blog post “Santorini Part I”: link
When to Visit Santorini:
Our first visit to Santorini was during March. The weather was cool, but pleasant enough. What we enjoyed most about this visit was the relative emptiness of the island. Last minute and affordable lodging was easily arranged for our stay, and across the island restaurants were open with no need for advance reservations. Certainly low season found some businesses closed, and others were in the midst of renovations in preparation for the summer crowds. But it really didn’t hamper our shopping and dining options so much that it impacted our good time. We enjoyed seeing the island and the locals living and working at a relaxed pace.
We have never visited Santorini during the high season of the summer months (June/July/August), and I’m not sure I would want to. We have visited in May, and it was a delightful trip. We enjoyed warmer weather, but the crowds were not yet overwhelming. We found beaches along with only a handful of other patrons, and restaurant tables were still relatively easy to come by. While I booked our lodging about 30 days in advance, inventory was plentiful.
Getting Around the Island:
On our first trip on the island, we rented a four-wheeler to explore. With map in hand we took advantage of the lack of traffic and crowds to spend hours exploring what seemed like every inch of the island. ATVs are very popular on the island. You see rows of them parked at hostels and hotels. We went directly to the rental store in Fira to arrange for ours, but our hotel also offered arrangement services for ATV rentals. Interesting to note, however, is that on Santorini we were told you can only rent a scooter if you have a valid motorcycle licence. We had just come from Crete where we had rented a scooter to do our exploring, so we were quite surprised by the law.
Santorini has frequent public buses (KTEL) that run in all major areas of the island. The main bus terminal is located in Fira, and all bus routes begin or end in Fira. In other words, you can’t cross from one end of the island to the other without going to Fira first and transferring buses there. The system runs with fairly good frequency, but you will find yourself sitting and waiting a good deal if you plan to utilize the buses. It is the most inexpensive mode of transportation on the island, and tickets for the buses are purchased once you are on board. I thoroughly enjoyed the people watching opportunities that waiting for the bus afforded us, but after about a day and half we broke down and rented a car from the airport for the balance of our trip. Our group’s lodging was separated between two different towns on the island, and the bus system made that too hard to manage.
Where to Stay in Santorini:
On our first trip to Santorini- off season – we stayed in Fira. I had done some research, and the advice offered was to stay in Fira, the capital and the largest city on the island, if visiting during the low season. It was spot- on advice. Most shops and restaurants are open year round in Fira, and that is certainly not the case in the other towns and villages on the island. On the other hand, Fira can become very crowded during the high season, so that is something to consider if you are traveling during the summer months. Shops, restaurants and night life abound in Fira, so the crowds flock there day and night.
For our stay in Fira we booked Nonis Apartments: link . It was a pleasant place to stay – clean, comfortable, and very walk-able to all there is to see and do in Fira. We booked at an excellent rate, so our room did not have a caldera view, but there were public areas on the property with seating that afforded us stunning views of the volcano. Most importantly, since it was off-season, we had easy access to the main taxi stand and numerous options for ATV rentals within easy walking distance when we needed transportation around the island.
On another stay in Santorini, Todd and I had our twenty-something daughter and niece along. So they could enjoy the night life that Todd and I had no interest in during our trip, I booked them into Fira Backpackers Place: link. They both reviewed the place well: it was modest, but clean and comfortable. They enjoyed meeting the other travelers in their dorm, and managed to have a very good time in Fira during the hours after Todd and I were long, fast asleep.
Depending what your interests are there are several towns and villages with many lodging options at all price points. On our first trip to Santorini while we were exploring, we came upon the village of Emporio which is known for its medieval Kasteli. It is a charming village with a maze of streets and alleyways that twist and turn through the traditional and historic part of the village. When we first discovered it I remember thinking that if we ever came back to Santorini, I’d want to stay there. So when we found ourselves returning to Santorini the following year, I searched high and low for a reasonably priced room. I found several options with all the traditional charm I was looking for on Airbnb. Emporio is centrally located on the island, so you won’t find many sweeping sea views, but it’s a quaint and very quiet place to escape some of the more bustling areas on the island.
The most famous village in Santorini is no doubt Oia (pronounced Ia). Situated on a cliff with stunning views, it oozes traditional charm. Compared to Fira, it is a very quiet and peaceful place to relax and enjoy all the village has to offer, including many shops, cafes, and taverns. Sunset viewing from points in Oia is an island industry in and of itself, and it is not to be missed!
If a town full of black sand beaches is more your style, Perissa may be where you might consider staying. It offers lodging for all budgets and many restaurants, beach bars, and beach-y shops to choose from. Enjoying the deep blue water from a lounge chair at Perissa Beach is a wonderful way to pass an afternoon.
Some of our Favorite Things to Do in Santorini:
Visiting the Akrotiri Lighthouse was one of my favorite adventures in Santorini. It is best reached by car or ATV, and once there you are rewarded with stunning views. Oia may be known for sunset gazing, but my favorite sunset on the island is from this lighthouse. There are some nearby hikes available, but I prefer a blanket, a perch on the rocks, and a bottle of wine to enjoy while the sun slowly dips into the Aegean Sea.
You will find ample tours on Santorini leaving from the old port in Fira and heading to the volcano on the island of Nea Kameni. We enjoyed walking down the 600 steps from Fira to the old port, but you can also ride down on the cable car. The volcano tours take anywhere from a couple of hours to 1/2 a day or more depending on optional activities. Some tours include a visit to the hot springs on Palea Kameni, or an extended sail around the caldera. Sunset tours are also available. Once you arrive at the volcano, you have about 90 minutes to visit the active crater. The hike to the crater follows along a path and takes about 25-30 minutes. It is an uphill climb, not for the faint of heart, but doable with benches for resting if needed along the way.
Once you arrive back at the old port, getting yourself back up to Fira can be accomplished by 2 methods…or 3, I suppose, if you choose to climb the 600 stairs yourself (Yikes!). The quickest way to the top is the cable car. It’s an inexpensive ticket and the ride up takes only a few minutes. The other option, and more traditional method, is riding up the steps on a donkey. While the locals have been using donkeys to get up the steps for decades, it has become a controversial choice with overtures of animal cruelty concerns. Riding the donkeys can seem like a romantic notion and it is a unique experience. But do a little research on the pros and cons beforehand, and you can make the decision that is right for you.
Beaches…what more do I have to say? Santorini may not be the most famous Greek Island for beach going, but it is still a lovely way to pass the day while there. Some beaches are more upscale than others, with bar service provided at your lounge chair; some are more remote and require a bit of a hike to get to; while still others are nude. Depending on which beach you choose you may find red, white, or black sand , or black or red volcanic pebbles. No matter which beach you choose, you will always find views of that deep, blue sea.
When I think back on our favorite day in Santorini, that slow and easygoing Sunday in March, perhaps what was most remarkable about our experience was the feeling that we had the freedom to travel and access whatever nook or cranny of the island we wanted to explore. We felt an intimate connection to the island, and perhaps for that one day – in some way- it was our own island to explore as we wished, with our own personalized memories to create.
I have a feeling Todd and I have not seen the last of Santorini in our travels. The stunning views, our shared memories, and the promise of new experiences will continue to pull us back there. We have many places still to see in the world, but I know we will be drawn back there again…hopefully sooner rather than later.
