Lodging – Our Moving Feast

June 18, 2018June 19, 2018

Athens – Ancient History Packed in a Modern Cityscape

So many of Todd’s and my travels are influenced by books and movies. But in the case of our travels to Athens, Greece, the cart was put in front of the horse, so to speak. It wasn’t until after our first visit to the city that a friend put several books from The Athenian Mysteries Series, written by Gary Corby, into our hands. Once I began reading the first book, The Pericles Commission, I was hooked.

I find Mr. Corby’s book series completely engaging. They are entertaining, light, and amusing books, but what I like best is his ability to weave classical antiquity into his stories so well. His plots use a combination of fictional characters – like the hero of the series Nicolaos, a detective or “agent,” working for a young Pericles who is still early in his political career – interwoven with recurring historical figures such as Socrates and Nicolaos’ love interest, Diotima. From each book in the series, without even trying, the reader learns so much about Classical Athens – the culture and mores, issues of both local and regional politics, family life, law, social customs and hierarchy, and religious beliefs.

Having just returned from Athens when I started reading the series, I enjoyed remembering many of the ancient sites detailed in the books. The first book begins with a dead body that falls from the Areopagus, a large outcropping of rocks near the Acropolis. In classical times, the Areopagus functioned as the main court for prosecuting homicides in Athens. As I read, I clearly remembered standing at the Acropolis with our tour guide as she pointed out the Areopagus and explained its significance. But after reading the books and returning to Athens, our time there was so much more enriched by the historical knowledge we had gained. For instance, on our first visit we had bypassed visiting the site of the ancient agora, or public meeting space and market. On our return trip to Athens, I was very excited to finally see the space that had played a large role in many of the books, as well as to finally understand exactly what a stoa, or building where public business was conducted, looked like. In fact, Todd and I were both total nerds about seeing a stoa for ourselves on that second trip.

What to see in Athens

For many travelers, a stay in Athens is little more than a stop off on the way to, or from, a longer trip to the Greek Islands. It is so unfortunate. Ancient Greece – not the Persians, nor the Egyptians, nor even the Romans – is the cornerstone of Western Civilization. The Greeks invented science, philosophy, drama, and of course, democracy, and at the epicenter of everything that defined Greece’s contributions to the ancient world was Athens.

Today the city has so much to offer travelers. But obviously, if pressed for time, the Acropolis is the most necessary stop on any itinerary. With most of its buildings dating from the 5th century BC, the Acropolis was a fortified area of the ancient city. Located on a rocky hill, rising high above the city, are the remains of many buildings that have great historical significance. The most famous of these buildings is, of course, the Parthenon.

The Acropolis and Parthenon lit at night might just be my favorite view in all of Athens.

Visible from most parts of the city, the view of the Acropolis is a wonder. I will never forget the first time we arrived in Athens. We flew into the city late in the evening, and took the metro to Syntagma Square, the central square of the city. From there we walked to our hostel in Plaka, the old and historic neighborhood in Athens which is built as they like to say, “in the shadow of the Acropolis.” I will always remember turning the corner onto the street where our hostel was located, and suddenly being struck by the view. Stunning.

Another favorite Athens site for us is always the Panathenaic Stadium. Built in 1896 for the first modern Olympics, it is situated on the site of an ancient stadium constructed in 329 BC. It is a sight to see, and the entrance fee can buy you the opportunity to run a lap around a track where many Olympians have run before!

Book three of the Athenian Mysteries is set during the Games in 460 BC. Interestingly noted in the book is that all athletes competed naked and women were not allowed to be spectators nor enter the Olympic village.

Another must stop in Athens is the Acropolis Museum. An archaeological museum exhibiting artifacts from the Acropolis, it opened in 2009. It is a beautiful and modern building that, most interestingly, has been built over a sizable archaeological site. Many parts of the museum are made of glass – including many sections of the floor – enabling visitors a view of the excavations below the building. Full of intriguing exhibits, it’s easy to lose many hours in there.

Where to Stay, Eat, and Be in Athens

Like any city in the world, Athens offers a multitude of lodging options in all areas of the city and at all price points. For me when it comes down to where to stay in a city, I’m all about location. In Athens, my neighborhood of choice is always Plaka, or the old town neighborhood. I love the neighborhood’s vibrant streets with their shops, restaurants, and people. Plaka is very walk-able to everything we want to see and do, and also accessible to public transportation.

The one place in Plaka we seem to continually gravitate to is the steps on Mnisikleous Street, otherwise know as the “Restaurant Steps.” It’s full from top to bottom of charming cafes and restaurants which serve until the wee hours. There is no better place in Athens to rest your feet while sipping a coffee, beer, or wine in the afternoon, and it’s an even better place to return to for dinner in the evening. We’ve eaten at several restaurants along the street, and have enjoyed some delightful meals…but the main draw is the ambiance.

You may find better restaurants in other parts of the city, but you will find no better place to delight in your surroundings.

Resting our feet at a cafe on the steps during a long day of walking – always my favorite time of the day! This cafe is a gem and evidently I’m not the only one who thinks so!

Our table view from a restaurant on the Mnisikleous Street steps.

I have mentioned before that where we choose to stay in a city is all about location for us. To facilitate that, we are willing to sacrifice any sort of opulence for a basic, clean, and comfortable room. To us, we’d rather save our funds for the experiences a city offers. I want to eat well and drink well while I travel. I can sleep well just about anywhere as long as it is clean. After all, if we are doing a city up “right,” we shouldn’t be in our room all that much anyway!

To that end, in Plaka we stay at the Students and Travellers Inn. It’s an economical choice that meets our needs well, and is steps away from everywhere we want to be. The staff is friendly and extremely helpful in navigating the neighborhood and city. We have always booked a private room for our stay rather than stay in one of the dorms. I figure there is no reason to subject fellow travelers to Todd’s snoring…or mine. I do prefer to book rooms with a private bath as well. But during our last stay, a shared bath was our only option. We survived. The only down side I’ve encountered at the hostel is the laundry service. The turnaround was very quick, but not much care had been taken to fold the clothes. As we were packing them in our backpacks, it really wasn’t much of an issue – just something to temper expectations.

The impact of Ancient Greece on the modern world cannot be underestimated. To be able to spend time in the cradle of civilization was both exhilarating and exciting, and being able to see the sites outlined in the series of mystery novels we read heightened our knowledge and appreciation for the contributions made by the early Greeks. Even better, whether you want to spend time in a museum musing over classical art, the rich history or the region, and see ongoing excavation sites, or if you prefer to wile away the hours in a street-side cafe people watching and sampling Mediterranean fare, modern-day Athens has something for everyone to enjoy.

April 14, 2018April 14, 2018

Couchsurfing- It Takes a Dose of Trust

When Todd and I share with our contemporaries how from time to time we host complete strangers in our home for overnight stays – free of charge – via Couchsurfing, we usually get a blank, disbelieving stare. While the Couchsurfing platform connects more than 14 million people world-wide, the average age of a Couchsurfer is about twenty-eight. When we share our experiences with them, our peers are usually hearing about Couchsurfing for the first time. The blank stare from our 50-something year old friends is usually followed by them asking us, “How do you know they are not going to kill you in the middle of the night?” I have to admit to them that I guess I really don’t know for sure. But in our experience, with careful consideration of who we accept for a stay, we have found participating in the Couchsurfing community to be a completely enriching experience. (Click here for more information about Couchsurfing.)

While listening to a podcast the other day, I heard a fascinating interview from a few years ago with Rachel Botsman, who along with Roo Rogers is the author of What’s Mine is Yours: The Rise of Collaborative Consumption. She built a very compelling argument for the unmistakable and growing importance of the sharing economy and responsible consumption that has been fueled by the technology/communication revolution and has exploded globally: think car-sharing platforms like Uber or Zipcar; peer-to-peer lending sites like Lending Club; fashion platforms like Rent the Runway; sites like Neighborgoods that provide a platform to borrow tools and kitchen appliances from your neighbors; and of course, home-stay sites like Airbnb and Couchsurfing.

Certainly the explosion of these collaborative sharing sites is driven by the advent of big data that connects service providers with consumers via individual platforms. But the point Ms. Botsman makes, quite eloquently, is how the technology and the sharing economy itself actually operates on what she calls “a currency of trust” as well as, “reputation” which she defines as, “the measurement of how much a community trusts you.” She even expands her idea to include what she calls “reputation capital” which she predicts will one day be even more important than an individual’s credit score as currency. As I listened to Ms. Botsman’s interview, her words completely validated our personal experiences with Couchsurfing and other sharing platforms. Her book and corresponding remarks about the importance of the sharing economy are a few years old, but they resonate now more than ever as the market for such services has only increased in popularity. (For a deeper dive on these ideas see her TED Talk here.)

Couchsurfing is a worldwide community that connects people who are willing to share their homes, or at least their time, with travelers who need a place to stay, or who are interested in meeting and spending time with locals during their journey. Hosts are not allowed to charge fees for lodging. Todd and I joined the platform about three years ago while living in Washington, DC. At the time, we were planning a lengthy trip to Europe in the coming months, and I was researching budget lodging options when I came across a reference to Couchsurfing. I immediately loved the concept and signed us up. Todd…well, he eventually suspended his disbelief, and based on our experiences has become an enthusiastic advocate.

Much like Airbnb and other home-stay platforms, Couchsurfing revolves around members setting up an online profile using biographical information, personal pictures, and by sharing their interests. Through a process of verification and written comments about their experiences with others, members expand their profile and develop their reputation.

When we originally signed up for Couchsurfing, my intention was to use the platform as an occasional lodging option while we traveled in Europe. We immediately began hosting travelers in our DC apartment to grow our profile and reputation within the community. You know – we wanted a profile that looked to others like we were NOT the kind of folks who would kill them in the middle of the night. As it turned out, while we have hosted and met many travelers over the years, we have never ‘surfed ourselves. The trip we took to Europe followed no set schedule. We knew where we wanted to go and what we wanted to see, but followed no particular timeline. We would often decide on the fly that we were ready to move on to another place with only a day or so notice to arrange transportation and lodging. I hesitated to send Couchsurfing requests on such short notice. I’ve never accepted last-minute requests, and don’t really know if I’d necessarily want to stay with those folks who would be willing to accept mine. I wouldn’t want them to skip washing the sheets before I arrived because they didn’t have time – right?

Our first Couchsurfers were three college kids from the Czech Republic. They had spent their summer working as servers at resorts in Michigan and Rhode Island, and were traveling around the U.S. before returning home. They spent one night with us in DC and were wonderfully engaging kids to talk to. I was surprised at how little money they had managed to make over the summer. By the time they had paid the company that arranged placement for them, repaid their travel costs to the placement company, paid for their visas, and paid for their room and board while working, there was really very little left in their pockets. It didn’t seem to diminish their enthusiasm for their adventure, however.

As I took them around DC on a one-day sightseeing whirlwind, I genuinely enjoyed learning about them and their lives at home. One of them had just graduated from university with a degree in statistics. I remember asking him what his plans were – was he excited to get a job and get out there and start “adulting” once he got home? I’ll never forget his reply because he explained to me – very matter of factly – how he had no real options for finding a job in the Czech Republic. The girls chimed in to add that having a college degree really didn’t matter, because there were no real job prospects at home. The two girls were still in college, but all three of them clearly did not see their degree as a means to an end. They were just marking time in university until university was over. Maybe, they mentioned, if they could find a way to get a job in Germany they would have a future. What struck me during this conversation was how these three young people weren’t upset or frustrated about their economic straits or necessarily striving for any change. It just was what it was.

Another ‘surfer we hosted that I will never forget was a strange little man from Florida. He’d spent the summer hiking in upstate New York and was making his way home via a stop in DC. I have the good fortune to work from home, which makes me more comfortable as a Couchsurfing host. I don’t have to leave my house with strangers in it while I’m away at work all day. The problem with this visit was that this man never left my house either. We had two full days of POURING rain. He had been to DC on several occasions, and there was obviously nothing he necessarily wanted to see again that was worth going out in the weather. So there he and I were…all day….together….in my little apartment. He was quite a talker except when it came to what he did for a living. He had “retired” in his late 30’s and had “gotten by” since then. We watched a lot of news programs together. Even though I had control of the TV remote, I had a hard time owning some of my normal rainy day viewing habits for this stranger to judge me by. He didn’t need to know that I can easily lose several hours to a Law & Order SVU marathon.

Finally, on the second afternoon, I handed him the weekly neighborhood newspaper that listed nearby events: lectures at American University and other spots around the city, special events and tours at the National Cathedral, author talks and book signings at local bookstores, gallery events, etc. Luckily he found something that piqued his interest: The National Heritage Fellowships which are lifetime honors presented to master folk and traditional artists by the National Endowment for the Arts. The program was being held that evening at GWU and the tickets were free. He insisted we ALL go to the program, and while I tried my best to beg off, he was having none of it. So I called Todd at work and explained to him how we would be going out in the rain to see a world-renowned oud player when he got home that evening.

The oud is a pear shaped string instrument – much like a lute. It is popular in Middle Eastern countries, and has been around for more than 5,000 years. The oud player who was honored that evening, Rahim AlHaj, is originally from Iraq. I found myself mesmerized by his playing of an instrument that until that afternoon I had never heard of. It was beautiful. But more than that, his story was captivating. As an accomplished artist and musician, he’d been persecuted in Iraq for his political activism. Arrested more than once, he spent time in prison being tortured by Saddam Hussein’s regime. He told the story of always crossing his arms and tucking his hands under his arms during torture to keep his tormentors from breaking his hands or fingers during the sessions. He eventually made his way to the U.S. as a political refuge and became a citizen. Rahim worked as a dishwasher and security guard before being able to re-establish himself as a world-class musician.

The entire evening was filled with engaging artists, their stories, and performances or examples of their work, such as a ladies quilting bee from Alabama, several singers, a Slovakian straw artist, a Japanese classical dancer, and many more. Now looking back on it – Todd and I always recall this particular night as one of our favorite evenings we spent during our time living in DC. This program was something that would have otherwise stayed completely off our radar if our Couchsurfer friend from Florida hadn’t been so insistent we all attend. We would have missed something very special. (Find the complete list of artists honored here.)

We once hosted a deaf couple from California who came to visit their daughter to surprise her on her eighteenth birthday. The husband read lips fairly well, but the wife and I communicated via messages on a notepad or through texting at each other while standing in the same room. They were a very sweet couple who brought their own instant oatmeal packets along with them for breakfast each day. I generally share any meals we are having with our Couchsurfers. But instead, each morning, they would make their way to the kitchen to eat their oatmeal, then very carefully clean up their dishes before making their way to their daughter’s school to spend the day with her. Unlike the strange little man from Florida, they left the apartment all day only coming home in the evening after dinner. Delightful guests!

Above all others, our favorite Couchsurfing guest was from Iran. He was a delightful, engaging, and extremely articulate young man who we immensely enjoyed getting to know. I found it fascinating to talk to him about his experiences. When traveling as an American there are times when you might just hope to keep your head down and be mistaken for a Canadian. But, I had never taken the time to think about what it must be like to travel the world with an Iranian passport. We loved his stories: the hoops he had to jump through and the endless bureaucracy he navigated to get visas, and how – regardless of how much preparation he may do – he might still be turned away at a border and denied entrance to a country. How Iranians, barred from the international banking system, traveled the world without a credit card for things like car rentals, hotel and airline reservations, etc. and, of course, we enjoyed hearing about his family and his life growing up in Iran before leaving the country to study abroad. We discussed politics in Iran and the U.S., current events, international relations, pop culture, movies, and what a crazy idea it was that Donald Trump would ever become president. (I’d very much like to revisit that topic with him now!) We enjoyed several meals that he cooked for us over the course of his stay, and were very sad to see his visit come to an end. Thanks to social media and email we are still able to check in with him from time to time, and I hope to meet him again one day.

I can honestly say we have only had positive experiences with Couchsurfers in our home, but there are some things to keep in mind before jumping into Couchsurfing:

Personal Safety: Like any relationship, you should not stay in a situation where you don’t feel comfortable and safe. There have been reports of robberies and even assaults although they are an extremely small percentage of all Couchsurfing connections. But if you meet someone and it feels off, get out of the situation. I personally would probably not ‘surf as a solo traveler nor host anyone in my home alone. There is always more safety in numbers. I would also think twice before hosting with small children in my house. Sometimes we are too quick to think we know someone well because we know them digitally. Read profiles very carefully and even read between the lines if necessary.
Home Safety: The sharing economy necessitates a mutual trust in each other and an expectation of good behavior by each individual. But take the time to carefully think about what a stranger coming into your house could mean. When we got ready for our first ‘surfers to arrive, it occurred to me that the room where they would be sleeping had a closet with shelving that served as our “medicine cabinet.” I quickly removed all the prescription medicines – leftover oxycodone, etc. Todd usually keeps his wallet in a bowl in the kitchen, but brings it into our bedroom when folks are ‘surfing. Likewise I don’t leave pieces of jewelry out on my dresser, and I’m also conscious of what I do with my purse around the house. We’ve certainly never had any type of incident, but it’s better to consider the possibilities and be safe rather than sorry.

Couchsurfing has been an incredibly enriching experience for Todd and me. With some careful consideration, the connections you can make and experiences you share by ‘surfing or opening your home to Couchsurfers can last a lifetime. It can be an extraordinary way to explore new cultures and enjoy the world in a completely different way – without even leaving your house sometimes. For Todd and I, the Couchsurfing slogan completely rings true: “You have friends all over the world, you just haven’t met them yet.”

March 2, 2018June 16, 2018

Economy Accommodations- What We’ve Learned

Dan is a liar who is also unfaithful. At least those are the words Todd and I heard being screamed at him in the middle of the night from our room which happened to be right next door to Dan’s. We had arrived at this particular Motel 6 in eastern Texas just before 10 pm after a long day of driving. After being briefly distracted by social media on our phones, Todd and I almost immediately went to sleep in preparation for an early morning departure.

I’m not exactly sure when the argument started next door, but I’m going to go out on a limb and say it was probably not long after “closing time” at some nearby establishment. I was immediately jarred awake when Dan’s wife? girlfriend? started screaming at him, but I didn’t move. I could tell Todd was also awake although neither of us moved or spoke about our neighbors until the next morning. I just listened – intently and on guard – in case the argument spiraled into a domestic violence situation that would require intervention from authorities. Every word of her displeasure in Dan was easy to hear, but he was speaking in a low and muffled voice. Eventually the argument died down and the television was turned on in their room. As I slowly drifted back to sleep, my thoughts were occasionally punctuated by her yelling at Dan to “shut up.” Mostly I was lying there thinking about how I wished I was staying in a higher-end hotel room – one with real glasses by the sink. Not that I would ever trust a real glass to have been cleaned properly enough to drink from. No way! But I could have used that glass to put my ear up to the wall to hear better. What had Dan been saying to her?

A couple of years ago Todd and I started making a conscious effort to stay at economy motels for brief stops on the road. Our logic being why should we spend more than twice the money when we are doing nothing more than sleeping, waking up, showering, and getting back on the road again? Certainly if we are homesteading out of the same place for a few days during a trip, we will spend the extra money to increase our creature comforts. In fact when we are going to be spending multiple nights in the same location, I usually skip over hotels entirely and move onto Airbnb to rent an entire apartment or house for our use instead. When we traveled with small kids things like pools and other amenities were important to us. But now that it’s just us arriving at bedtime and setting an alarm to get back on the road early, why spend $100-$150 for a Holiday Inn Express or a Hampton Inn when we can spend $50-$75 and have all our needs met for those 8 or so hours at a Motel 6 or an Econo Lodge? That being said, it is important to note that not all economy motels are created equal. You need to do your homework before check-in.

What I like most about economy motels is that they are often locally owned and operated small businesses. A few years ago, after watching the documentary Meet the Patels – which I highly recommend – I was introduced to the notion of “Patel motels.” After watching the movie, I began noticing that many of the motels we were spending the night in were, in fact, owned by members of the Patel community. A little research taught me that almost 50% of all motels in the United States are owned by Indian Americans. Most of them are from Gujarat in central and southern India, and about 70% of them share the surname, “Patel.”

For more information about the phenomenon of “Patel motels” read “Life Behind the Lobby: Indian American Motel Owners and the American Dream.” Link

Every couple has their division of labor, and it is my job to check in and out of motels when we travel. I’m always delighted when I discover we are staying in a “Patel motel,” and Todd and I always do a little high-five when I come back to the car and tell him. What I love most about these motels is the family aspect to the operation. Whether it be a “mom and pop” style motel, or a low, or even mid-level franchised economy motel if you look closely, it’s easy to recognize the signs of family life all around. More often than not, the family running the daily motel operation, whether they be the owners or extended family members who manage the property, also live in the motel. When a desk clerk appears from behind a closed-door, you can often get a glimpse of family life going on behind the walls: a TV on, dishes clanking, a baby fussing, kids laughing and playing. Sometimes you will glimpse teenagers who walk down a hallway and disappear behind a door that clearly leads to back of the house areas of the motel. I love when I know a family is living life just beyond the lobby walls. It makes the motel feel more special and homey.

These motels that dot the landscape off every exit are a uniquely American fixture along our roadways, and it’s very important to both do your homework and manage your expectations before checking into an economy motel, whether it be a “Patel motel” or not:

Read each motel’s reviews carefully! Todd and I do not typically pre-plan our road trip stops. We drive until we get tired or until we reach our destination. As we decide we are done driving for the day, I get on my phone and start searching. I largely rely on reviews from Booking.com. It is a closed reviewing system and only solicits its reviews from customers who have booked a motel through the website. I know everyone who is commenting has actually been a customer. I zero in on the cheapest motel with the highest rating, and I try to avoid staying at motels that do not at least score a “7.5” on Booking.com’s rating system. As I read the reviews, I carefully search for comments such as “clean,” “comfortable beds/pillow”, “friendly staff,” etc. It’s also important to take the negative reviews with a grain of salt. People are far more likely to take the time to leave a review when they are disgruntled than when they are pleased with their stay. Read the bad reviews to see if they are legitimate concerns. A review that says the room was dirty carries more weight than one from a customer who is unhappy because noise from the air conditioner unit (or room next door?) kept them awake.

Don’t expect 5-star amenities. The towels are likely to be terrible. Be grateful for the shampoo and conditioner and the couple bars of soap. There will not usually be lotion or any other toiletry items offered. There will be no sign telling you to come down to the front desk if you forgot your toothbrush to get a complimentary one. No hairdryer will be provided. Expect and insist that your bathtub be clean, but don’t expect the bathtub to be new and blemish free by any means.

A morning continental breakfast buffet is not likely, but sometimes you will get a scaled down version. Motel breakfasts do not generally appeal to me anyway. At a minimum, coffee is usually offered in the lobby each morning.

Inspect your room. This is a rule of thumb regardless of where you stay. Bed bugs are just as likely to be in an expensive hotel as they are to be in economy motels. I look at the sheets and mattress for signs of any critters. I wouldn’t lie down on a bedspread whether I’m in a Motel 6 or a JW Marriott.

I will note that I appreciate the direction Motel 6 has taken in recent years. It’s very uncommon to stay at a Motel 6 that hasn’t been refurbished these days. What they have done across their motels is take out the soft furnishing in favor of hard surfaces. Carpeting has been replaced with laminate. Upholstered furniture has been replaced with wood, and bedding is comfortable without being overly plush. I assume these design choices have been made to keep the likelihood of bedbug infestations to a minimum.

If you do your homework and manage your expectations, economy motels can provide very pleasant stays while you are on the road. Sure the walls can be thin sometimes, but I would argue that in most mid-level motels, and often in some higher-end hotels, you will hear more from your neighbors than you would prefer from time to time.

The morning after Dan and his lady friend interrupted our sleep, Todd and I rose early and quietly prepared to get back on the road. We laughed about the argument we’d been witness to and I wondered about Dan. The night before, I’d taken it on faith that Dan was in fact a lying cheater. I’d assumed his low murmured side of the conversation had been an attempt to manipulate and gaslight her. But in the morning light I considered that maybe she was just that kind of crazy drunk who needed to be calmly talked down from the ledge from time to time. Maybe Dan’s transgressions were just imagined?

Todd left to load and warm up the car, and I walked through the room one last time to make sure we had our belongings. I came to the door and noticed that Todd had pulled the car across the parking lot to make sure the idling did not disturb those still sleeping. As I glanced around, Dan’s room was quiet and peaceful. As I imagined them sleeping off their evening, I turned and slammed the door as hard as I could. You see….Todd’s a much nicer person than I am.