Pie Town, New Mexico….My Personal Mecca

I love obscure holidays on the calendar.  Each week brings a wealth of unique and special days that mostly go by unnoticed by the majority of us.  Just a few weeks ago, while I was struggling with what to have for dinner, the collective of the internet alerted me to the time-honored observance of “National Pancake Day.”  Perfect!  Dinner menu decided!  July 6th will once again find me celebrating “National Fried Chicken Day,” but somehow I will have more trouble rallying my enthusiasm for “National Spinach Day” later this month (March 26th).

Last week marked a couple particularly special days worth celebrating in our household.  First was “National Napping Day” which is observed annually on the day following the switch to daylight savings time.  Rest Assured (pun intended) even without any advance planning, Todd and I tore that celebration up!  However, March 14th or “Pi Day” holds a very special place for us.  As a couple, we don’t always manage any special acknowledgement of “Valentines Day,” but Todd knows better than to allow “Pi Day” to pass without making it a date.  FYI- we don’t celebrate by figuring the circumference of any circles.

I love good pie.  Sometimes I think my love of pie still defines me as a good mid-western girl at heart, even though I haven’t lived there for years.  Sometimes I think my love of pie merely defines me as my mother’s daughter.  Either way, to me, good pie is almost a food group in and of itself.

Good pie is a quest for me.  Accordingly, when we find ourselves traveling through the Southwest, we always find the route that takes us through Pie Town, New Mexico.  We’ve managed the trip 3 times in the last 3 years.  I once told the story of our Pie Town adventures to my sister-in-law and she asked me what it was near.  I remember thinking…nothing…of course…it’s near nothing.  You just plan to go through there on purpose.  Sure, we are on the way somewhere else each time we have stopped in, but the trip is ALWAYS designed to take us through Pie Town.  It is a destination for us.  Pie Town might just be my personal mecca.

Pie Town, located along U.S Highway 60 in Catron County, is an unincorporated community of less than 200 souls located in the high desert of New Mexico.  It’s named for a bakery that was opened by Clyde Norman in the early 1920s and specialized in dried-apple pies.  It’s long been a popular stop for Continental Divide Trail hikers and road-trippers alike.  Each year the second Saturday of September sees thousands descend on this corner of the New Mexico as Pie Town plays host to a very popular Pie Festival complete with pie-eating and pie-baking competitions.

I first saw a story about Pie Town on CBS News Sunday Morning in the fall of 2015 and immediately decided I would have to see it (and taste it!) for myself.  An opportunity arose just a few months later when our son needed someone to drive one of his cars when he relocated to California from Alabama.  I told him I’d be happy to drive a car provided he map a route for us through Pie Town.  It turned into a wonderful drive through a part of the country where I had not previously spent much time.

Our route West had us leaving the interstate behind in Central Texas.  Our drive across the arid land in West Texas was long, flat, and quite beautiful in its own way.  I loved the small towns U.S. Highway 380 wound us through with their local diners, Dairy Queens, and donut shops.

What I think I enjoyed most about this particular trip was that I was truly just along for the ride-except I was driving.  I had done no research about our route, so with each bend in the road I was continually surprised about not only the scenery, but also the places we passed.  Shortly after crossing into New Mexico, U.S. Highway 380 passes through Roswell. I was delighted at the possibility of a brief stop to see the kitschy attractions.  Unfortunately, time was not on our side, and it was not to be- at least not on this trip.  I made a promise to myself that Todd and I would make this trip again with site-seeing stops along the way, and we continued to push through to California with our planned stop in Pie Town.  I did manage to lobby my son for a 1/2 day detour to the Grand Canyon, and Todd and I drove the route again about a year later on our way to visit our son in his California home making all the stops along the way.

Pie Town is an extremely hospitable place.  Plan your trip carefully, however.  A couple of the cafes are not open year round, and they keep very short serving hours when they are open.  I recommend you do your research on the cafes’ websites and/or Facebook pages to make sure your stop is not in vain.  You are going to drive out-of-the-way to get there, so make sure it counts!  At the time my son and I visited there were only two pie cafes in operation, Pie-O-Neer Pie Shop and  Daily Pie Cafe, and we had to press to arrive before closing time at 4 pm.  But the Pie-O-Neer was open when we arrived, and did not disappoint.

The Pie-O-Neer was featured in a documentary, Pie Lady of Pie Town, in 2014,  as well as, in the CBS story I saw in 2015.  The Daily Pie Cafe was also featured on CBS, but I have never been lucky enough for the shop to be open during any of our trips.  The Pie-O-Neer does a very brisk business, but is only open 3 days a week, and is closed during the winter.  It traditionally opens for business on “Pi Day” each year.  The service is warm and inviting; the pies are delicious and well worth the effort of the long drive.  However, you should think about calling ahead to place your slice on hold if you are looking for a specific flavor.

Apple-Cranberry Crumb and Cheer-y Cherry!  They were sooo good that we ordered a chaser piece of Apple Ala Mode to share….Try the New Mexico Apple Pie, as well!  The sweetness of the apples and the heat of green chiles…Yum!

On my second trip to Pie Town with Todd, we were running late and knew the shops would be closed by the time we arrived.  It was the price to pay for a wonderful day of sight-seeing along the route.  We were extremely disappointed, but we thought we’d at least stop and take some pictures.  Once we arrived in town, we noticed a new pie shop, The Gatherin’ Place, had opened for business.  It was almost closing time, but we pulled in and got some pie!  The owner could not have been more gracious and her pies were delectable.  A five member band traveling through on tour stopped in just as we did.  So there the owner found herself, just before closing time, with a cafe full of customers!  She offered up the last of the day’s pies to all of us, and even offered to stay open late to bake more for us if we had the time to wait.  The Gatherin’ Place is open year round from 7:30 am – 6:00 pm each day.

On our third trip through Pie Town, Todd and I had our daughter in tow.  We were driving from Texas to Utah for the holidays, and decided to detour through Pie Town en-route.  We ordered ahead at The Gatherin’ Place and picked up whole pies for our Christmas dinner.  Naturally, while there we had breakfast and pie…why waste a visit! Delicious!  A particularly nice feature of The Gatherin’ Place are large communal tables that facilitate pleasant conversation with other patrons- locals and travelers, alike.  It makes the experience as sweet as the pies.

If travel is about the journey, pursuing good pie along the way is making the trek even sweeter for us.  We’ll keep searching for it everywhere the road takes us, and we’ll be making it “Pi Day” every chance we get….because making it “National Spinach Day” just doesn’t translate.

 

Caution….I Will Brake for Food

I love dives.  I seek out dives and little hole-in-the-wall places.  Rusty taco trucks are my thing.  Happening upon them on a road trip makes the experience of good food all the better.  A long drive is as much about the food as it is about the journey for me, and our trip from South Carolina to Texas did not disappoint last week.

I was well into adulthood before I realized that not everyone has the same relationship with food that I do.  I don’t ever remember food not being at the forefront of my mind.  Everyday.  All day.  I no more than finish a meal before I start thinking about what my next meal is going to be, and where it is going to come from.  Forget to eat?  Doesn’t happen to me.  Long drives are no different for me than any other day.  I’ll spend an afternoon whiling away the hours on a road trip dreaming about what kind of restaurant we’ll stop at next.

Road trip dining wasn’t always as interesting for us as it is now.  When our kids were younger, the budget – and picky eaters – drove us to the usual fast food restaurants.  When you have a four-year old who only eats chicken nuggets your options are limited.  I remember my oldest son coming home from a trip with his high school girlfriend’s family and marveling at the idea of them  pulling over and eating at a steakhouse.  The sum of his reality had been pulling into a parking lot where he and his younger brother would head to the Taco Bell next door, while his little sister was taken into a McDonald’s by one parent.  The odd parent out would run over to Subway and get sandwiches for the adults.  Steak n Shake was also a perennial family favorite on road trips, and is still universally loved by all of us, much to the chagrin of my now daughter-in-law whose family ate at the steakhouses.

Incidentally, when it came time for our other son to dine out with a girlfriend’s family for the first time, he came home amazed that appetizers had been ordered saying, “I’ve always seen them on menus, but I didn’t know people actually ordered them!”

Our first road trip find last week was in Jackson, Mississippi.  Courtesy of Yelp we stopped in for an early dinner at the Beatty Street Grocery.  link:  Beatty Street Grocery

It’s not far off I-20 but sits in an industrial/commercial neighborhood that felt just a tad bit sketchy in the late afternoon.  There was an adult video store up the block, and the strip club across the street seemed to be doing some brisk business with the after work crowd from the looks of the parking lot.  We circled the restaurant thinking it might be closed and we almost drove away.  But deciding you can’t judge a book by it cover, we opted to put our faith in the wisdom of the Yelpers.

Since closing time was looming, we hurried back to the grill and ordered to go.  The burgers had been well reviewed so I ordered one.  I asked the cook what else was good that would be quick and easy for her.  Without hesitation she told me, “The fried bologna sandwich.” I balked at first, but it was closing time and she was being very gracious.  I went ahead and ordered it.

I don’t remember the last fried bologna sandwich I ate.  It’s been decades no doubt.  But this was one of the best sandwiches I have ever eaten.  She had a slice of tomato, thick piece of bologna, and some sort of fresh tangy relish that was to die for, all on buttery, thick slices of grilled bread….to. die. for.

The owners were closing out their receipts for the day, but couldn’t have been friendlier while we waited for our food.  Customers rushing in minutes before closing are not always received with open arms.  We chatted about our travels; they told us to beware of a town ahead of us that was a renowned speed trap; and we shared a wonderful few minutes with a genuinely delightful couple.  We will be back again one day.

We were equally lucky on our return trip.  Lunchtime was looming as we came upon Hawkinsville, Georgia.  Once again I put my faith in Yelp.  I honestly have good luck with Yelp when we are on the road.  Reviews must be considered carefully but I find them more reliable than those to be found on TripAdvisor.

Yelp pointed us to The Grill and it couldn’t have been a better choice.

The lunch crowd was very local, but we were welcomed none the less.  While perusing the menu I have to say I considered the fried bologna sandwich wondering if lightning could strike twice.   I mean, maybe fried bologna is my new thing, right?

We listened as our waitress rattled off all the specials and new items that were not printed on the menu.  I was briefly drawn to the possibility of the “Grilled Cheese Burger” which was described as two grilled cheese sandwiches serving as the bun that book-ended a 1/4 pound beef patty…or a double patty if we preferred.  But instead, my mid-western girl’s heart stopped when she mentioned the pork tenderloin sandwich.   I remembered the fried and breaded pork tenderloins of my youth that you just can’t find outside of the middle of the country.  (Thanks to Culver’s they are slowly spreading the goodness of tenderloin sandwiches around, but not fast enough.)

The waitress continued to describe specials launching into their new hot dog option which included mushrooms, onions, bacon, cheese,  and chili.  With a wave of the hand we stopped her mid sentence letting her know she had us at ‘two deep fried hot dogs on a bun’….

If you noticed we shared the french fries. Somehow that made all the other questionable choices we were making at The Grill seem alright…

The reality of my sandwich was not what I had envisioned.  It turned out to be a deliciously sweet pulled pork tenderloin with grilled onions that was most tasty.   We were both happily satisfied with our selections as we considered dessert: Pineapple. Cheese. Pie….don’t skip it…. Our waitress mentioned that they had  been messing around with recipes in the kitchen and had stumbled on the idea of Pineapple Cheese Pie, and that it was now their best seller.  We see why.  link:  The Grill

As a very honorable mention, I don’t want to overlook the dinner we stopped in for at The Anthony in Vicksburg, Mississippi.  Our plan had been to stop again in Jackson on our return, but sadly the Beatty Street Grocery closes at 2 pm on Saturdays.  Our meal at The Anthony was deliciously spot on- a shrimp po’ boy and a fried boneless chicken thigh with biscuit and gravy– and I would happily stop in again anytime.  link:  The Anthony

I can’t end a discussion about places worth pulling over for on a road trip without pointing you to Home Grown in Atlanta.  I will drive out of my way to eat here.  I’ve had several fabulous meals here and hope to have many more to come!  I’m always looking for reasons to drive through Atlanta just for this one.  Link:  Home Grown

The pork chop and gravy and crab hash. For the rest of my life if I pass within 50 miles of Atlanta, I will divert here to eat. It’s worth it.

Whatever did we do on road trips before Yelp?