This morning I happened to open the “favorites” file on my computer while looking for an old recipe, and instead came across an old file titled “retirement trip.” A few years ago, in anticipation of Todd’s impending retirement from the Army, I began carefully curating articles and videos I came across that I felt could best inform our long anticipated celebratory travels. With titles like, “Italy’s Most Charming Seaside Villages,” and “The 5 Best Places You’ve Never Heard Of,” and with sub-folders organizing information by country, I enjoyed re-reading some of the information and tips we had referred to while building our itinerary.
One article that particularly jumped out at me was “How to Have the Sistine Chapel All to Yourself.” I clearly remembered reading this article a few years ago, and thinking how it would come in handy. Having been to the Sistine Chapel twice since then, both times I realized too late that I didn’t remind myself to take heed of the author’s advice or the hacks. When I think of some of the most inauthentic travel experiences Todd and I have had, our time spent at the Sistine Chapel always comes to mind.
First let me say, I would never advise against visiting the Sistine Chapel when visiting Rome for the first time. It truly is a magnificent wonder. But it is an experience that can only be described, at best, as a “cattle call.” Throngs of tourists are corralled into the chapel together – easily hundreds and hundreds at one time. For me, it was not the crowd, nor the constant murmur of nearby conversations that was distracting. But rather, the booming and incessant announcements by a guard with reminders to be silent, and that pictures are not allowed, are what kept me from carving out a space in my mind where I could be in the moment and take in the wonder of that ceiling. Both of our visits were somewhat unsatisfying in the least.
When you read articles about how to enhance your travels with better local experiences, often authors will say, “skip the big, crowded tourist attractions.” What? I’m certainly not going to Paris, at least the first time, without going to see the Mona Lisa or the Eiffel Tower. That doesn’t make any sense. These places are famous for a reason. They are beautiful and awe-inspiring. And when it comes down to it, we all need a few of those “I was there” selfies in our photo collections. But, after having been to New York City more times than I can remember, it’s true. You are not going to find me in Times Square, unless I happen to be traveling with someone who has not yet seen it for themselves. The best and most memorable travel comes when you can strike a balance between seeing what “must” be seen with other more local and authentic experiences along the way. Todd and I enhance our local experiences through a combination of doing our research, getting ourselves out of our comfort zone, and always asking questions along the way.
Doing our Research
Finding the right mix of tourist attractions and local attractions can be a delicate balance. Before heading to any destination, I will search the internet for one of the many available articles about what the “top ten things to do” in any locale may happen to be. After reading it, I immediately start to parcel the list down according to how long our stay in the area will be, and what our priorities are. If we are only going to be somewhere for a few days, we don’t want to spend all of that time in lines for tourist attractions. We might only make one or two stops on that list – the real “have to see” places. Next, I will search out articles from blogs or local publications that focus more on describing sights that are favorites for locals – parks, museums, beaches, and hikes. Many of these places will often be free or very low-cost, and will absolutely enhance your visit.
You can never go wrong by learning at least a few words in the local language. I have to admit that Todd is much better than I am about learning a few words and phrases, and then actually putting them to use in our travels. He has a much better ear for languages than I do, giving him more confidence to try other languages with ease. You can’t underestimate how much locals appreciate and are willing to engage when you are at least giving their language a try.
Reading travel books and blogs, as well as, both fiction and non-fiction books to get a better feel for local customs, history, and current events is a must. For us, this point is best illustrated by our trips to Athens. It wasn’t until after our first visit to the city that a friend put several books from The Athenian Mysteries Series, written by Gary Corby, into our hands. They are entertaining, light, and amusing books, but what I like best is his ability to weave classical antiquity into his stories so well. His plots use a combination of fictional characters interwoven with recurring historical figures. From each book in the series, without even trying, the reader learns so much about Classical Athens – the culture and mores, issues of both local and regional politics, family life, law, social customs and hierarchy, and religious beliefs.
Having just returned from Athens when I started reading the series, I enjoyed remembering many of the ancient sites detailed in the books. As I read, I clearly remembered standing at the Acropolis with our tour guide as she pointed out the Areopagus and explained its significance. But after reading the books and returning to Athens, our time there was so much more enriched by the historical knowledge we had gained. For instance, on our first visit we had bypassed visiting the site of the ancient agora, or public meeting space and market. On our return trip to Athens, I was very excited to finally see the space that had played a large role in many of the books, as well as to finally understand exactly what a stoa, or building where public business was conducted, looked like. Our second trip to Athens was so much better informed – just by reading for pleasure.
Getting Out of Our Comfort Zone
We stay away from hotels and instead try to use Airbnb to book apartment style accommodations or we use hostels and even Couchsurfing. Todd and I go out of our way to stay in places where we are more likely to engage with locals more regularly. Often times hotels can be too insulated from the neighborhood and residents. But while shopping for needed supplies in neighborhood stores, going to and from an apartment building each day, and enjoying small neighborhood restaurants, we are more likely to meet local residents and interact in more meaningful ways.
My favorite example of how getting out of a hotel can enrich local experiences came during our stay in Rome. We stayed in a modest apartment building whose residents were mostly local families. The weather was beautiful. Each morning and evening we enjoyed having the windows open to listen to the hum of sounds in the building’s center courtyard and from the other apartments. We enjoyed a violinist who practiced each morning; neighbors chatting; kids playing; and family sounds floating out of other apartment windows – dishes clinking, bits and pieces of conversations, and bouts of laughter. As every sound floated up from below, it was obvious that there were not many secrets in the building. One evening was spent listening to a couple have an argument (in German) and throwing some glass bottles. One Monday, however, was wash day for me. We were moving on from Rome the next day, so I took some time to do our laundry before heading out. As I was out on the balcony hanging our clothes on the line, I looked around and saw four of my neighbors doing the same. I got a kick out of being in sync with my neighbors, and being a small part of that week’s laundry day!
There is no better window into the rhythms of a city and the lives of its residents than public transportation. We use public transportation – buses, trains, and subways – every chance we get while traveling. First, I think we just plain enjoy the challenge of trying to see if we can get ourselves from point A to point B in a foreign city. Are we buying the correct ticket? Getting on the correct bus? It can be a trial, and it certainly would be easier and quicker to just hire a car to get where we are going. But the people watching, and potential interactions, afforded us during a long bus or subway ride, can be so insightful. Sure there are always some other tourists on the bus, but watching kids on their way to school, and adults heading to work or just going about their business, can give us such a feel for the natural rhythms of an everyday morning.
One of my favorite hours or so in Santorini was spent in the town square in the village of Emporio waiting for the bus to Fira. Todd and I walked from our little house to the bus stop. We stood and tried to decipher the bus schedule at the corner. But after a short while, we gave up and figured one would be along sooner or later. I settled in on a bench next to an elderly gentleman who had the most beautiful blue eyes. It was immediately obvious that language was a barrier for us, but we gestured pleasant greetings to one another. After a few minutes, Todd wandered down the street to explore some local shops. I watched as almost every car stopped at the corner, and the drivers paused to speak with the gentleman – always with deference. Every pedestrian stopped and spoke to him as well. I realized that he was not waiting for the bus, but rather seemed to just be passing the time in the square with his neighbors. Soon he started gesturing, and I looked up to see a bus coming. I could tell he was searching for Todd, but of course, Todd was nowhere to be seen. I let the bus pass, and the gentleman and I shrugged and chuckled. Todd wandered back, and eventually another bus came along. The next day, we rented a car. Our little group’s lodging was split between Emporio and Fira, making the competing bus schedules too cumbersome to manage. I saw the gentlemen the next evening. Seeing him from the car window was not nearly as satisfying as sitting with him and watching the world go by from the bench in the village square.
Asking Questions Along the Way
No one is immune from our endless questions. Ticket agents, tour guides, bus drivers, waiters, shop keepers, hostel staff, Airbnb hosts, Uber drivers, other travelers – we will pepper anyone with our questions. Where should we eat? What should we see and do? What do they know that we should know about a city? Where should we go next? How should we get there? We have found that if you take the time to reach out to them, most folks want to share their knowledge of their city or country with you. More often than not, they will point you in the best directions.
Every one of us are tourists during our travels. But by taking the time to do your research, get out of your comfort zone, and ask questions, you will enhance your travels with opportunities for more local and authentic experiences that will only make your trip that much better. I’m all about visiting the local tourist hot spots. But once you’re done, it’s time to just wander down the local streets and get yourself a little lost. Finding an out-of-the-way bookstore or cafe or market, and enhancing your local experiences, is when the magic happens. It makes travel all the richer, and makes your visit all the more personal. You often see a tourist destination with a hundred of your closest, newest friends. But, by grabbing a bottle of wine and finding the perfect out-of-the-way location to enjoy the sunset with your significant other, you create a memory of a lifetime.
