So many of Todd’s and my travels are influenced by books and movies. But in the case of our travels to Athens, Greece, the cart was put in front of the horse, so to speak. It wasn’t until after our first visit to the city that a friend put several books from The Athenian Mysteries Series, written by Gary Corby, into our hands. Once I began reading the first book, The Pericles Commission, I was hooked.
I find Mr. Corby’s book series completely engaging. They are entertaining, light, and amusing books, but what I like best is his ability to weave classical antiquity into his stories so well. His plots use a combination of fictional characters – like the hero of the series Nicolaos, a detective or “agent,” working for a young Pericles who is still early in his political career – interwoven with recurring historical figures such as Socrates and Nicolaos’ love interest, Diotima. From each book in the series, without even trying, the reader learns so much about Classical Athens – the culture and mores, issues of both local and regional politics, family life, law, social customs and hierarchy, and religious beliefs.
Having just returned from Athens when I started reading the series, I enjoyed remembering many of the ancient sites detailed in the books. The first book begins with a dead body that falls from the Areopagus, a large outcropping of rocks near the Acropolis. In classical times, the Areopagus functioned as the main court for prosecuting homicides in Athens. As I read, I clearly remembered standing at the Acropolis with our tour guide as she pointed out the Areopagus and explained its significance. But after reading the books and returning to Athens, our time there was so much more enriched by the historical knowledge we had gained. For instance, on our first visit we had bypassed visiting the site of the ancient agora, or public meeting space and market. On our return trip to Athens, I was very excited to finally see the space that had played a large role in many of the books, as well as to finally understand exactly what a stoa, or building where public business was conducted, looked like. In fact, Todd and I were both total nerds about seeing a stoa for ourselves on that second trip.
What to see in Athens
For many travelers, a stay in Athens is little more than a stop off on the way to, or from, a longer trip to the Greek Islands. It is so unfortunate. Ancient Greece – not the Persians, nor the Egyptians, nor even the Romans – is the cornerstone of Western Civilization. The Greeks invented science, philosophy, drama, and of course, democracy, and at the epicenter of everything that defined Greece’s contributions to the ancient world was Athens.
Today the city has so much to offer travelers. But obviously, if pressed for time, the Acropolis is the most necessary stop on any itinerary. With most of its buildings dating from the 5th century BC, the Acropolis was a fortified area of the ancient city. Located on a rocky hill, rising high above the city, are the remains of many buildings that have great historical significance. The most famous of these buildings is, of course, the Parthenon.
Visible from most parts of the city, the view of the Acropolis is a wonder. I will never forget the first time we arrived in Athens. We flew into the city late in the evening, and took the metro to Syntagma Square, the central square of the city. From there we walked to our hostel in Plaka, the old and historic neighborhood in Athens which is built as they like to say, “in the shadow of the Acropolis.” I will always remember turning the corner onto the street where our hostel was located, and suddenly being struck by the view. Stunning.
Another favorite Athens site for us is always the Panathenaic Stadium. Built in 1896 for the first modern Olympics, it is situated on the site of an ancient stadium constructed in 329 BC. It is a sight to see, and the entrance fee can buy you the opportunity to run a lap around a track where many Olympians have run before!
Another must stop in Athens is the Acropolis Museum. An archaeological museum exhibiting artifacts from the Acropolis, it opened in 2009. It is a beautiful and modern building that, most interestingly, has been built over a sizable archaeological site. Many parts of the museum are made of glass – including many sections of the floor – enabling visitors a view of the excavations below the building. Full of intriguing exhibits, it’s easy to lose many hours in there.
Where to Stay, Eat, and Be in Athens
Like any city in the world, Athens offers a multitude of lodging options in all areas of the city and at all price points. For me when it comes down to where to stay in a city, I’m all about location. In Athens, my neighborhood of choice is always Plaka, or the old town neighborhood. I love the neighborhood’s vibrant streets with their shops, restaurants, and people. Plaka is very walk-able to everything we want to see and do, and also accessible to public transportation.
The one place in Plaka we seem to continually gravitate to is the steps on Mnisikleous Street, otherwise know as the “Restaurant Steps.” It’s full from top to bottom of charming cafes and restaurants which serve until the wee hours. There is no better place in Athens to rest your feet while sipping a coffee, beer, or wine in the afternoon, and it’s an even better place to return to for dinner in the evening. We’ve eaten at several restaurants along the street, and have enjoyed some delightful meals…but the main draw is the ambiance.
I have mentioned before that where we choose to stay in a city is all about location for us. To facilitate that, we are willing to sacrifice any sort of opulence for a basic, clean, and comfortable room. To us, we’d rather save our funds for the experiences a city offers. I want to eat well and drink well while I travel. I can sleep well just about anywhere as long as it is clean. After all, if we are doing a city up “right,” we shouldn’t be in our room all that much anyway!
To that end, in Plaka we stay at the Students and Travellers Inn. It’s an economical choice that meets our needs well, and is steps away from everywhere we want to be. The staff is friendly and extremely helpful in navigating the neighborhood and city. We have always booked a private room for our stay rather than stay in one of the dorms. I figure there is no reason to subject fellow travelers to Todd’s snoring…or mine. I do prefer to book rooms with a private bath as well. But during our last stay, a shared bath was our only option. We survived. The only down side I’ve encountered at the hostel is the laundry service. The turnaround was very quick, but not much care had been taken to fold the clothes. As we were packing them in our backpacks, it really wasn’t much of an issue – just something to temper expectations.
The impact of Ancient Greece on the modern world cannot be underestimated. To be able to spend time in the cradle of civilization was both exhilarating and exciting, and being able to see the sites outlined in the series of mystery novels we read heightened our knowledge and appreciation for the contributions made by the early Greeks. Even better, whether you want to spend time in a museum musing over classical art, the rich history or the region, and see ongoing excavation sites, or if you prefer to wile away the hours in a street-side cafe people watching and sampling Mediterranean fare, modern-day Athens has something for everyone to enjoy.